Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Vyšel průvodce Adršpach I.
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
Pískaři jsou zpět!

Competitions
MČR obtížnost (01.06)
Olympijská kvalifikace Budapeš (20.06)
SP Innsbruck (26.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
23.H2 10698
24. 10685
25.Kolomazník 10625
Bouldry:
23.Košál 9328
24.Šolc 9309
25.Jakubcova 9309
Hory:
22. 3476
23.Drahota 3282
24.HKvdf 2832

Results
Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj (16.05)
SP paralezení Salt Lake City (07.05)
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)

Diary
5575 lezců
1104442 cest
Nové přelezy:
Krkavčí Po 9+/10-
He´s Looki 11-/11
Král Boru 7C
Jenseits V Xa
Hardcore Xc
Elskling 7c
Kalcit 9+/10-
Limonadový 8A+
Wie Ich Di 9+/10-
Take A Wal 9-/9

Indoors
Eset Centrum - Praha 2
Lezecká stěna Jičín - Jičín
Stěna Holešov - Holešov

Shops
Luna Rossa - lezecké chyty a stěny - Děčín
Rock Point Outlet Store - Praha 5 - Radotín
Dap Sport - Hradec Králové

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra has sent his hardest route

smallA 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.

Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!

před klíčovým místem

Adam in hardest spot

photo by Š Vojtěch Vrzba


That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+).
In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.

Pohled na cestu

The Cave

photo by Š Vojtěch Vrzba


Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz

JirkaS   [edit] 10:34 27.10.2009Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj
 Routes:
All routes (175200)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Kelišová III Adršpach
Kuzmova V Adršpach
Stará Cesta III Adršpach
Lapená Muška III Adršpach
Stará Cesta II Adršpach
Latest comments:
Stará Cesta I Adršpach
Stará Cesta I Adršpach
Normální Cesta III Zbirohy
Normální Cesta II Zbirohy
Malá Bavona 6C Tisá - Modřín

 New in discussion:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Re: Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. |

 Latest comments:
Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | -1 OR 3+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 2+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.