Čertovo kopyto | Highballs in Czech |
Čertovo kopyto(Devils stump) offers a different sort of rock and is more of highballs paradise.The rock is rough, dark gray granite and is mainly overhanging. Faces east, making Čertovo Kopyto a good tick on days when the temperature is mild due to shady aspect. All lines are sheltered from the sun and the area is excellent when when wind is blasting the boulders as well as when you need a bit of shade. The crags (a compact wall up to 10m high) themselves are arrayed along this Brzina creek in a north-south arrangement.
The highest wall of Čertovo kopyto
The climbs here range from long (the Iluze boulder has almost 10m) to short, yet there are some great problems, which are not finished yet as well, all of them quite highball.
Most of the development took place in the mid-90's, the work of Peter Obst, and his brother, and Franta Mezera, though the area is mentioned as Čertovo kopyto.
There are roughly 16 routes. Problems range in difficulty (UIAA) from, 5 to 8+ and additionaly with at least the two hard unclimbed problems. Clasification tends to be transfered into Fb in our topo. Holds, namely edges, can be sharp. Expect to pull on micro-pockets, cracks and the occasional glassy sloper, as well as funky pocket holds.
Access
Get There:
Devils stump is best accessed via Příbram direction Sedlčany. Pass the village Obory then the dam Slapy (where you would turn to Roviště climbing area) and keep driving east toward Sedlčany. After 2 km turn right direction Hrachov drive through and at the end of village turn slightly left continue a dirty road 300m till you reach a small creek (Brzina). Here you park and walk along left bank and after 10 minutes you’ll reach the wall.
Bida climbs Iluzi 6B+
Beta
Problems from right to left:
1) Normálka 3
2) Strašpytel 6A
3) ?
4) Utržená hrana 5C+
5) Hodný ?
6) Zlý ?
7) Ošklivý ?
8) Prokletí černé perly 6B
9) Cortézovo zlato 6A
10) Projekt
11) Black and Liker 5C
12) Druhé pivo 4
13) Sedřené půlky 6A+
14) Špinavé půlky 6A+
15) Špinavé slipy 6A
16) Krysy z chaty 5C
17) Iluze 6B+
18) Prstožer 6A
19) Myší díra 5A
Don't bother inhabitants at the other bank of the creek it's very much on private land. Probably in past it resulted in destroying of bolts.
The climbs here range from long (the Iluze boulder has almost 10m) to short, yet there are some great problems, which are not finished yet as well, all of them quite highball.
Most of the development took place in the mid-90's, the work of Peter Obst, and his brother, and Franta Mezera, though the area is mentioned as Čertovo kopyto.
There are roughly 16 routes. Problems range in difficulty (UIAA) from, 5 to 8+ and additionaly with at least the two hard unclimbed problems. Clasification tends to be transfered into Fb in our topo. Holds, namely edges, can be sharp. Expect to pull on micro-pockets, cracks and the occasional glassy sloper, as well as funky pocket holds.
Get There:
Devils stump is best accessed via Příbram direction Sedlčany. Pass the village Obory then the dam Slapy (where you would turn to Roviště climbing area) and keep driving east toward Sedlčany. After 2 km turn right direction Hrachov drive through and at the end of village turn slightly left continue a dirty road 300m till you reach a small creek (Brzina). Here you park and walk along left bank and after 10 minutes you’ll reach the wall.
Problems from right to left:
1) Normálka 3
2) Strašpytel 6A
3) ?
4) Utržená hrana 5C+
5) Hodný ?
6) Zlý ?
7) Ošklivý ?
8) Prokletí černé perly 6B
9) Cortézovo zlato 6A
10) Projekt
11) Black and Liker 5C
12) Druhé pivo 4
13) Sedřené půlky 6A+
14) Špinavé půlky 6A+
15) Špinavé slipy 6A
16) Krysy z chaty 5C
17) Iluze 6B+
18) Prstožer 6A
19) Myší díra 5A
Don't bother inhabitants at the other bank of the creek it's very much on private land. Probably in past it resulted in destroying of bolts.
| JirkaS [edit] | 10:33 25.02.2004 |
Commentaries | ... | new comments | New comment  |