Adam Ondra did simulation of difficult moves for his Project Hard 9c?, he has in Flatanger, Norway. Watch the video shots, he published on Instagram.

Very vague simulation of where I go next;-) Project Hard.

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on May 12, 2017 at 1:00pm PDT

Here is the video of Adam Ondra real practicing on the real Project Hard in Flatanger, Norway, in 2016:



And now Adam Ondra added on Instagram a picture with some tips for better crimp usage for hard climbing:

The way you use the holds is very important. Being able to crimp is well as open crimp or open hand is crucial when it comes to climbing efficiently. One way of grabbing a handhold overstrains one part of your forearm, using more ways of grabbing a handhold results in working with your forearm in a more complex way and ultimately - less pump. Recently, I have also noticed the extreme importance of pinkies. My pinkies got strong that in certain occassions, in order to save my skin on index finger (always prone make a split), I just avoid using index finger. Pic by @lukasbiba , on a 9a route at #smichoff, set by #JanZbranek @lasportivagram @mytendon @monturaworld @blackdiamond @gardatrentino @chimpbars

A post shared by Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) on May 13, 2017 at 12:23am PDT