www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Gimme Kraft! AIR: 2. díl populární tréninkové bible pro lezce
Knižní novinky od Joty
Frankenjura průvodce

Competitions
HoroGuru Ještěrka (23.02)
10boy Brno (23.02)
Ádr boulder session (25.02)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13691
2.Vopat 11748
3."Fido" 11600
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11375
2.Ondra 11153
3.Stráník 10825
Hory:
1.Coubal 7964
2.Šuraba 7707
3.Skopec 7586

Results
Vírský cepín 2017 (11.02)
MS mládeže v ledolezení (10.02)
MS v ledolezení (04.02)

Diary
4201 lezců
608503 cest
Nové přelezy:
Sturmtrupp 7b
L`Escamarl 7c+
Los Sobrao 7c
Dschungelf 7C
El Prado D 7b+
Directa Co 8c
Yihad 7b+
Me La Pone 7c
VáHa 80 9
Darkie The 5.12d

Indoors
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

France is not only Buoux

Adam Ondra and comp.

There is a small riddle in the beginning of article- how difficult is the route on the picture?

There is no win prize but still you have to acknowledge that the shot is exceptional.


What is the difficulty of this route?


We set out again for southern France to get some sun during spring holiday Team members: Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Tereza and Anna Čermak plus service team.


In St. Leger 


We visited several outcrops round Nice, which are likely to be the closest France outcrops from Brno about 1200 kilometers. I’d like to emphasis that for those, who wants to explore a new climbing areas there is a brand new area in Italy - Castelbianco, and another one immediately behind borders - Castillon. These areas have mainly harder routes, though you can find also some easier stuff but only for one day.
A romantic venue you can discover in the vicinity of Monaco, actually cliff are situated just above the famous Monaco. La Turbie. Some routes are little bit polished but a breathing view is worth. Again for those who wants to climb in less crowded places there is a less known area Peillon.
There is a big contrast between the crowded coast and a wild nature just 10km away.
Access is about 20 - 45 minutes, and if you decide to see also the cave Grotti the access could be ratther tougher.
The area Gorge du Loup, situated in narrow valley, is excellent for warmer days. There are some interesting spots like Jurassik Park at the east side or at the west side desperately overhanging sector Pupuce surplomb. Namely sport climbers can appreciate climbing here all year round. 
Weaker climbers shouldn’t be sad because nearby Gourdon outcrops have plenty of easy routes to offer.

Try to plan your access to Gourdon and Jurassik (to the Jurassik drive from Gourdon and after some 180 deg. hairpins leave your car along the street and follow obvious path turning to the right downhill till the bottom parking spot, at this moment is accessible just for 4WD, from here follow the marking route and go trough several tunnels to the wall) from the north because there is a land-slide close the Pupuce surplomb.

Than we went more to the north and visited  Chateauvert and Buoux.
We finally ended in St. Leger, where are a lot of our friends (Czechs and Slovak climbers)
Final sum up:  for 11 climbing days we have traveled  3000 km
Adam Ondra did: 20 routes above 8a : 7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Gorges de Loup
                                    Bout du souffe  8b, OS, Peilon
                                    Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
                                    Abregenief  8b, PP, St. Leger
Let me note that  Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux was probably the first on sight ever, remaining routes were climbed also mainly in on sight style or flash (some8a+ and 8a
Martin Stráník did 19 routes above 8a: 3 routes of 8b, styl PP : Abregenief - St. Leger, Das Boot - Peillon, New power generation - Gorges du Loup
the rest 8a+, 8a mainly  OS or flash
For detail check the  www.8a.nu website.
Anna and Tereza Čermák climbed plenty of 7a, 7b’s. Again mainly OS or flash.
Sponsors www.singingrock.cz , www.saltic.cz , www.sunsport.cz

Some photos 

Mortal Combat 8b, Castillon



Monaco



Grotta in Peillon



Das Boot 8b, flash,Peillon



Martin Stranik in action



Jurassik Park



7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Pupuce Surplomb



Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux – probably the first On sight accent of that route




Terka v St. Legere



Anna Cermak St. Legere


And finally solution of the riddle: Route on the picture is  Diplodocus 6c in Jurassic Park.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 12:09 13.04.2005Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Slaňák
 Routes:
All routes (115886)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
One For Karsten 6c+ San Vito Lo Capo
Pilar 6a San Vito Lo Capo
Gelati 3 San Vito Lo Capo
Pasta 3 San Vito Lo Capo
Sturmtruppen 7b San Vito Lo Capo
Latest comments:
Cesta Pro Lukáše VI Tisá - Velké Stěny
R.U.R. VIIb Tisá - Malé Stěny
Flash Enemigo 8a+ Siurana
Jednocuková 9 Lom V Komíně
Dall´Alba Al Tramonto 6b+ San Vito Lo Capo

 New in discussion:
Looking for climbers for a student shoot | Re: drytooling in CZ | Bouldering and sport climbing partner | looking for partner in Olomouc | Re: Looking for partners | Looking for partners | Re: looking for contact or info | looking for contact or info | Looking for climbing partner in Prague | Re: Climbing partner Prague |

 Latest comments:
Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava |

 Hot:
Srbsko: Prague Sport Climbing (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - Butch Cassidy 8A by 13 year-old Leo Skinner
 - Kuzan, ~8C, by Toshi Takeuchi
 - Seb Bouin: The silent crusher
 - Newsflash: Jim Mann Runs Bob Graham to Complete Winter Triple
 - British Universities and Colleges Sport Nationals: Results
 - VIDEO - Ganesha 8b+: Climbing India's hardest Sport Route
 - Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, by Toru Nakajima
 - FRI NIGHT VIDEO - Cape Wrath Ultra
 - NEWS: The Project - A Unique Competition in Stockholm
 - NEWS - Six killed in Alps Icefall Collapses
 - New Northern Corries X, 10 by Greg Boswell
 - FRI NIGHT VID - Learning to Boulder with Ed Byrne and Niall Grimes
 - The Lappnor project
 - BMC launch Live Lake District Conditions Reports
 - VIDEO: Adam Ondra making the FA of Mamichula, 9b
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.