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France is not only Buoux

Adam Ondra and comp.

There is a small riddle in the beginning of article- how difficult is the route on the picture?

There is no win prize but still you have to acknowledge that the shot is exceptional.

What is the difficulty of this route?

We set out again for southern France to get some sun during spring holiday Team members: Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Tereza and Anna Čermak plus service team.

In St. Leger 

We visited several outcrops round Nice, which are likely to be the closest France outcrops from Brno about 1200 kilometers. I’d like to emphasis that for those, who wants to explore a new climbing areas there is a brand new area in Italy - Castelbianco, and another one immediately behind borders - Castillon. These areas have mainly harder routes, though you can find also some easier stuff but only for one day.
A romantic venue you can discover in the vicinity of Monaco, actually cliff are situated just above the famous Monaco. La Turbie. Some routes are little bit polished but a breathing view is worth. Again for those who wants to climb in less crowded places there is a less known area Peillon.
There is a big contrast between the crowded coast and a wild nature just 10km away.
Access is about 20 - 45 minutes, and if you decide to see also the cave Grotti the access could be ratther tougher.
The area Gorge du Loup, situated in narrow valley, is excellent for warmer days. There are some interesting spots like Jurassik Park at the east side or at the west side desperately overhanging sector Pupuce surplomb. Namely sport climbers can appreciate climbing here all year round. 
Weaker climbers shouldn’t be sad because nearby Gourdon outcrops have plenty of easy routes to offer.

Try to plan your access to Gourdon and Jurassik (to the Jurassik drive from Gourdon and after some 180 deg. hairpins leave your car along the street and follow obvious path turning to the right downhill till the bottom parking spot, at this moment is accessible just for 4WD, from here follow the marking route and go trough several tunnels to the wall) from the north because there is a land-slide close the Pupuce surplomb.

Than we went more to the north and visited  Chateauvert and Buoux.
We finally ended in St. Leger, where are a lot of our friends (Czechs and Slovak climbers)
Final sum up:  for 11 climbing days we have traveled  3000 km
Adam Ondra did: 20 routes above 8a : 7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Gorges de Loup
                                    Bout du souffe  8b, OS, Peilon
                                    Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
                                    Abregenief  8b, PP, St. Leger
Let me note that  Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux was probably the first on sight ever, remaining routes were climbed also mainly in on sight style or flash (some8a+ and 8a
Martin Stráník did 19 routes above 8a: 3 routes of 8b, styl PP : Abregenief - St. Leger, Das Boot - Peillon, New power generation - Gorges du Loup
the rest 8a+, 8a mainly  OS or flash
For detail check the  www.8a.nu website.
Anna and Tereza Čermák climbed plenty of 7a, 7b’s. Again mainly OS or flash.
Sponsors www.singingrock.cz , www.saltic.cz , www.sunsport.cz

Some photos 

Mortal Combat 8b, Castillon


Grotta in Peillon

Das Boot 8b, flash,Peillon

Martin Stranik in action

Jurassik Park

7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Pupuce Surplomb

Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux – probably the first On sight accent of that route

Terka v St. Legere

Anna Cermak St. Legere

And finally solution of the riddle: Route on the picture is  Diplodocus 6c in Jurassic Park.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 12:09 13.04.2005Print 


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