www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Frankenjura průvodce
Nejkrásnější cesty na písku
Koniec Pavúkov v Tatrách

Competitions
Evropský pohár mládeže (02.07)
SP Chamonix 2016 (11.07)
SP Villars 2016 (15.07)

Ranking
Cesty:
16.Šindel 10640
17.Vopatová 10622
18.Rozsypal 10525
Bouldry:
16.Konečný 9628
17.Chejn 9600
18.Pilka 9453
Hory:
16.Daněk 3417
17.M. 2888
18.Fliegl 2678

Results
Boulder cup (18.06)
Evropský pohár mládeže (17.06)
Mistrovství SR obtížnost do 14r. (11.06)

Diary
4107 lezců
579262 cest
Nové přelezy:
Kompressio 9+
Kristoforu 9+
Kristoforu 9+
Kristoforu 9+
Menší Post 7c
Boiling Po 10-/10
Mars Attac 9
Tanz Der A 9+/10-
WoGü Kante 8+
Wattepuper 9+/10-

Indoors
RadOTTín - Praha 5 - Radotín
(Sky Club Brumlovka - Praha - uzavřena) - Praha 4
Boulder centrum VUT v Brně - Brno

Shops
Horolezecké vybavení - VK-SHOP.CZ - Plzeň
HUDYsport - Praha 1
HUDYsport - Mladá Boleslav

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

France is not only Buoux

Adam Ondra and comp.

There is a small riddle in the beginning of article- how difficult is the route on the picture?

There is no win prize but still you have to acknowledge that the shot is exceptional.


What is the difficulty of this route?


We set out again for southern France to get some sun during spring holiday Team members: Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Tereza and Anna Čermak plus service team.


In St. Leger 


We visited several outcrops round Nice, which are likely to be the closest France outcrops from Brno about 1200 kilometers. I’d like to emphasis that for those, who wants to explore a new climbing areas there is a brand new area in Italy - Castelbianco, and another one immediately behind borders - Castillon. These areas have mainly harder routes, though you can find also some easier stuff but only for one day.
A romantic venue you can discover in the vicinity of Monaco, actually cliff are situated just above the famous Monaco. La Turbie. Some routes are little bit polished but a breathing view is worth. Again for those who wants to climb in less crowded places there is a less known area Peillon.
There is a big contrast between the crowded coast and a wild nature just 10km away.
Access is about 20 - 45 minutes, and if you decide to see also the cave Grotti the access could be ratther tougher.
The area Gorge du Loup, situated in narrow valley, is excellent for warmer days. There are some interesting spots like Jurassik Park at the east side or at the west side desperately overhanging sector Pupuce surplomb. Namely sport climbers can appreciate climbing here all year round. 
Weaker climbers shouldn’t be sad because nearby Gourdon outcrops have plenty of easy routes to offer.

Try to plan your access to Gourdon and Jurassik (to the Jurassik drive from Gourdon and after some 180 deg. hairpins leave your car along the street and follow obvious path turning to the right downhill till the bottom parking spot, at this moment is accessible just for 4WD, from here follow the marking route and go trough several tunnels to the wall) from the north because there is a land-slide close the Pupuce surplomb.

Than we went more to the north and visited  Chateauvert and Buoux.
We finally ended in St. Leger, where are a lot of our friends (Czechs and Slovak climbers)
Final sum up:  for 11 climbing days we have traveled  3000 km
Adam Ondra did: 20 routes above 8a : 7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Gorges de Loup
                                    Bout du souffe  8b, OS, Peilon
                                    Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
                                    Abregenief  8b, PP, St. Leger
Let me note that  Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux was probably the first on sight ever, remaining routes were climbed also mainly in on sight style or flash (some8a+ and 8a
Martin Stráník did 19 routes above 8a: 3 routes of 8b, styl PP : Abregenief - St. Leger, Das Boot - Peillon, New power generation - Gorges du Loup
the rest 8a+, 8a mainly  OS or flash
For detail check the  www.8a.nu website.
Anna and Tereza Čermák climbed plenty of 7a, 7b’s. Again mainly OS or flash.
Sponsors www.singingrock.cz , www.saltic.cz , www.sunsport.cz

Some photos 

Mortal Combat 8b, Castillon



Monaco



Grotta in Peillon



Das Boot 8b, flash,Peillon



Martin Stranik in action



Jurassik Park



7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Pupuce Surplomb



Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux – probably the first On sight accent of that route




Terka v St. Legere



Anna Cermak St. Legere


And finally solution of the riddle: Route on the picture is  Diplodocus 6c in Jurassic Park.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 12:09 13.04.2005Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Ferrata
 Routes:
All routes (110797)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Depresija 6b Paklenica
Charlie Brown 5b Arnoldstein
Kunststück 6b+ Arnoldstein
Die Schattige 6a Kanzianiberg
Noname 4 5 Bor
Latest comments:
Rozkošná Spára VI Ostaš
Kristoforum 9+ Josefovské Údolí
Hale Bopp 7A+ Frankenjura
Krkavčí Matka 8a Krkavka
Krkavčí Matka 8a Krkavka

 New in discussion:
Looking for a climbing partner(s) in Cesky raj during July 26~29 | Climbing on Gozo | Bouldering Petrohrad May | Climbing partner Prague | drytooling in CZ | Re: Climbing in Petrohrad | Climbing in Petrohrad | Looking for new friends, travel and sport buddies | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! |

 Latest comments:
Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later | PADání 2010 video here: |

 Hot:
The Girls Only Slackline Festival (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Skeleton Ridge - The Needles, Isle of Wight
 - Arc'teryx Alpine Academy 2016: Report
 - Dave MacLeod Repeats Return of the King E9 6c
 - 3 Golds and a Bronze for GB Paraclimbing Team in Italy
 - VIDEO: Sonnie Trotter - Freeing the Totem Pole's Ewbank Route
 - First 8B+ for Nathan Phillips in Magic Wood - Mystic Styles
 - Longhope Route E7 for Tom Livingstone and Tony Stone
 - Delirium, ~8C, by Dave Graham
 - FRI NIGHT VID: The Needles in 360° with Alex Honnold
 - Women's International Climbing Meet: Report
 - INTERVIEW: Pete Bridgwood Solos 600 Routes in a Day
 - 120 degrees, another 9a+ first ascent by Adam Ondra
 - Progress 8c+ for Jon Freeman
 - VIDEO: Tidal Reach: Bouldering at St Bees
 - 6th Place for Emily Phillips in Graz EYC (B)
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.