www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Best of Arco
Vychází nová kniha o lezení na písku
Monte Baldo Rock

Competitions
Lokalblok Bouldering Session V (06.05)
Beal petrohradské padání (30.05)
Boulder Open Air (07.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
28.Zíma 10119
29.Karešová 10112
30.Jeliga 10104
Bouldry:
28.Kuhn 8806
29.Ondra 8703
30.Dus 8700
Hory:
9.Šuraba 4476
10.Sk 4202
11.Coubalová 3828

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3596 lezců
451725 cest
Nové přelezy:
Dala 8+/9-
Buchnerpfe 9-
Liebe Ohne 9
Hitchhike 9/9+
Riadený Šm 9+
Krátká Kře 9+
La Probosc 7c
Culo Dritt 7b
Gym Tonic 7C
Magneton 8A

Indoors
Sportareál Klíny venkovní stěna - Klíny 210
ZŠ Bolatice - Bolatice
Spolkový dům - Vlašim

Shops
HUDYsport - Mladá Boleslav
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
NěcoNavíc.cz - České Budějovice

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

France is not only Buoux

Adam Ondra and comp.

There is a small riddle in the beginning of article- how difficult is the route on the picture?

There is no win prize but still you have to acknowledge that the shot is exceptional.


What is the difficulty of this route?


We set out again for southern France to get some sun during spring holiday Team members: Adam Ondra, Martin Stráník, Tereza and Anna Čermak plus service team.


In St. Leger 


We visited several outcrops round Nice, which are likely to be the closest France outcrops from Brno about 1200 kilometers. I’d like to emphasis that for those, who wants to explore a new climbing areas there is a brand new area in Italy - Castelbianco, and another one immediately behind borders - Castillon. These areas have mainly harder routes, though you can find also some easier stuff but only for one day.
A romantic venue you can discover in the vicinity of Monaco, actually cliff are situated just above the famous Monaco. La Turbie. Some routes are little bit polished but a breathing view is worth. Again for those who wants to climb in less crowded places there is a less known area Peillon.
There is a big contrast between the crowded coast and a wild nature just 10km away.
Access is about 20 - 45 minutes, and if you decide to see also the cave Grotti the access could be ratther tougher.
The area Gorge du Loup, situated in narrow valley, is excellent for warmer days. There are some interesting spots like Jurassik Park at the east side or at the west side desperately overhanging sector Pupuce surplomb. Namely sport climbers can appreciate climbing here all year round. 
Weaker climbers shouldn’t be sad because nearby Gourdon outcrops have plenty of easy routes to offer.

Try to plan your access to Gourdon and Jurassik (to the Jurassik drive from Gourdon and after some 180 deg. hairpins leave your car along the street and follow obvious path turning to the right downhill till the bottom parking spot, at this moment is accessible just for 4WD, from here follow the marking route and go trough several tunnels to the wall) from the north because there is a land-slide close the Pupuce surplomb.

Than we went more to the north and visited  Chateauvert and Buoux.
We finally ended in St. Leger, where are a lot of our friends (Czechs and Slovak climbers)
Final sum up:  for 11 climbing days we have traveled  3000 km
Adam Ondra did: 20 routes above 8a : 7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Gorges de Loup
                                    Bout du souffe  8b, OS, Peilon
                                    Das boot 8b, flash, Peillon
                                    Abregenief  8b, PP, St. Leger
Let me note that  Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux was probably the first on sight ever, remaining routes were climbed also mainly in on sight style or flash (some8a+ and 8a
Martin Stráník did 19 routes above 8a: 3 routes of 8b, styl PP : Abregenief - St. Leger, Das Boot - Peillon, New power generation - Gorges du Loup
the rest 8a+, 8a mainly  OS or flash
For detail check the  www.8a.nu website.
Anna and Tereza Čermák climbed plenty of 7a, 7b’s. Again mainly OS or flash.
Sponsors www.singingrock.cz , www.saltic.cz , www.sunsport.cz

Some photos 

Mortal Combat 8b, Castillon



Monaco



Grotta in Peillon



Das Boot 8b, flash,Peillon



Martin Stranik in action



Jurassik Park



7PM JP Chaud 8c, PP, Pupuce Surplomb



Chouca 8a+, OS, Buoux – probably the first On sight accent of that route




Terka v St. Legere



Anna Cermak St. Legere


And finally solution of the riddle: Route on the picture is  Diplodocus 6c in Jurassic Park.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 12:09 13.04.2005Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Filip_zaoral_
Staré skály
Sloup
Psycho 9-/9
 Routes:
All routes (93263)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Sedlá Krev VI Tisá - Bürschlické Stěny
Východní Cesta IV Tisá - Hřebenové Věže
Plážajka 7/7+ Kalvária V Nitre
Sluneční Diagonální Logika 7-/7 Prokopské Údolí
Logická Diagonála 6+ Prokopské Údolí
Latest comments:
Pro Jedno Kvítí Slunce Svítí 8 Lomy Nad Velkou
Pro Jedno Kvítí Slunce Svítí 8 Lomy Nad Velkou
Ramlice 6- Lomy Nad Velkou
Ramlice 6- Lomy Nad Velkou
Pro Jedno Kvítí Slunce Svítí 8 Lomy Nad Velkou

 New in discussion:
Re: Little America, bolted routes? | Little America, bolted routes? | Bouldering in Petrohrad around Easter | Rock Climbing close to Brno? | LEZENIE ČR | Mr. | Mr. | Climbing partner in Brno | Re: Climbing Partner | Exp and Trekking in Pakistan |

 Latest comments:
Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later | PADání 2010 video here: |

 Hot:
The Girls Only Slackline Festival (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - MINI INTERVIEW: MaDMAn 2nd Ascent for Nige Kershaw
 - 3rd Ascent of Ugly, E8/XXS, for Benno Wagner
 - Ethan Walker Climbs Two 8B+'s
 - The Jimmy Webb update
 - VIDEO: Alex Megos in Frankenjura
 - 12 Sherpas Killed on Everest as Serac Collapses
 - FRI NIGHT VID: The Positron Traverse V3 - With One Leg
 - NEWSFLASH: Neil Mawson Climbs Parthian Shot
 - Rare Lichen, E9, for Nathan Lee & Oli Grounsell
 - New Newsletter for UKC & UKH
 - Multiple 8B Boulders in Font and Albarracin for Ned Feehally
 - Ed Hamer Takes First Place at Kendal Wall Competition
 - Interview: The Story of two worlds and Big Kat by Hojer
 - FRIDAY NIGHT VID: Stone Kingdom Ep. 4
 - Jimmy Webb climbs The Understanding, 8C
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.