Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové

Competitions
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
Petrohradské Padání (26.04)
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
31.Kolomazník 10438
32.Holík 10415
33.H2 10370
Bouldry:
31.Svoboda 8859
32.Hapala 8853
33.Hronek 8853
Hory:
31.Jansa 2401
32.F 2288
33.Kočvara 2248

Results
SP Wujiang (12.04)
SP Čína (09.04)
AIX ÁDR BOULDER SESSION (09.03)

Diary
5549 lezců
1095689 cest
Nové přelezy:
Runway 9+/10-
Ippolito 10-
Ruská Rule Xb
Fotogenick 9-
Profumo Di 8a
Lidská Bes 8B/8B+
Amores Per 8A+
Top Guns 8a
Haus Gotte 8A
Jahodová D Xc

Indoors
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Big Wall - Praha 9 - Vysočany
V 16 - Plzeň

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

The first Czech 10- long pitch route PP in Alps

Fram, Marmolada

Two Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák finalised the 17 years old project Fram on the south face of Marmolada, running between The Fish and Via Italia. They sent it in PP style on 11.-13.9.2006 and graded the pitches above the Fish Cave 8+, 10-, 9/9+, 9+ and 5 (UIAA).

The ascent was reported by official site of the Czech mountaneering union (ČHS).
Fram was the Slovaks Igor Koller and Peter Ondrejovic´s project on the south face of Marmolada, between Koller´s routes The Fish and Via Italia. They started the project in 1989 and in 1991 they reached one and half pitch above the cave which is in shape of fish. Then they opened the project for other climbers, who would like to try it in the same style. Koller did himself  some other tries too. In such a way Fram was established as a variant to the Fish Cave as well as Via Italia and many climbers climbed it in this way.
The Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák and third Czech climber Pavel Jonák finished the route already last year, but in AF style.
Becouse they climbed the lower part last year (Stoupa twice), this year they two climbed the lower part by the route Via Italia to the Fish Cave where the main problems of Fram starts.
For the climbing the pitches in a row and in PP style they needed two bivacues.
The main climbing is on the 15th– 19th pitch, what has not many simmilarity in Europe. There is as well necessery to use some gear in pitches to 8+ and gear is usefull even in the for 10- and 9+ and some times there is some „run out“, explained the ascenters on the ČHS site.

The source in Czech language with some photos and topos:
www.horosvaz.cz


Marmolada, Dolomiten, Italy
(Archive of Lezec.cz, photo by Hop)


Standa   [edit] 10:01 24.09.2006Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

 Routes:
All routes (174361)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Jsem Super 7A Městské Skály
Zřícenina 7B Městské Skály
Už Jdi Spinkat Debílku 7A+ Městské Skály
Přítel Šňupák 6B Městské Skály
Friendship 7B Borzęta
Latest comments:
Jahodová Dřeň Xc Bezděčín
Jahodová Dřeň Xc Bezděčín
Čtyřnohý Kamarád Arik Xb Bezděčín
Jahodová Dřeň Xc Bezděčín
Jahodová Dřeň Xc Bezděčín

 New in discussion:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Re: Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. |

 Latest comments:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | -1 OR 3+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 2+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 3*2>(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3*2<(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- | -1 OR 2+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (38)
Lucie Hrozová: boulder 8A flash (17)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.