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Frankenjura: The new route harder than Action Directe?

smFrankenjura´s elite climber Markus Bock finished an old project that he considers as the most difficult route he ever has climbed and thinks it is harder than Action Directe 9a.

He did it on 5th October 2006. The project was set by Andi Hofmann in 1993 in Frankenjura (valley Ailsbachtal). The new route has no name at the moment and leads via 10 moves together along Burn for You, and than folows the hardest part - 6 bouldering moves in 8b Fb and without rest the finishing in 15 moves in 8b.
The news was brougt by Bida to Lezec.cz in Czech and wider info appears on climbing.de in German.


Burn for you, 11-, Adam Ondra climbs, foto by Aleš Rozsypal

Lezec.cz   [edit] 10:01 09.10.2006Print 

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 Iker Pou looked at the new route?23:43:49 09.10.2006
According to the comments of the Czech version (Lezec.cz) Czech elite climber Rosta Stefanek thinks in reaction on some question that it would be probably much more difficult than his attemps  in the another similar project in Frankenjura. Probably Iker Pou, who climbed Action Direct in 2000, was on Sunday there seen attempting the new Bock´s route. He should warm up first in the oposite side of the valley on Rabenstein wall in some easier routes. Look at the photo of the day from the Sunday there http://www.czechclimbing.com/reference.php?czak=129
 Standareply 

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