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Madagascar

2006

A week ago we returned from the succesful expedition Madagascar 2006. Tomáš Sobotka and Ondra Beneš (D.Žleb Company, Czech Republic), and then two Austrians: Harald Berger and Florian Scheimpflug participated.

In the half of the trip the well known photographer Herman Erber with his wife and asistent came.
After the arrival on 18.9.2006 to the capital Antanariva we moved to the national park Antingritida 800 km away on the south, where the 800 m high granit massive of Tsaranoro lies. We spent almost a month there.


photo by© Tomáš Sobotka


The main aim of the expedition was the first ascent throught the wall. The style of the first ascent was the same as is usual on our home sandstones (ground-up). The first we focused on  the longest line of the massive Tsaranoro be. Beautiful, clear, black track from watter cross the entire 800 m long wall. The super line. It was clear, so we started to work.
During five days of drilling, climbing and jumaring we managed to reach the summit of 
Tsaranoro be (1900 m). In to the 16 pitches (mostly about 55 m) of the route we drilled 140 bolts. The difficulties are mostly 7a and more, the key pitch is 7c+. The rock is formed by large grain granit. Curious is that there are mostly holds on the wall and classical crack climbing there has missed.


The workout in the wall

photo by© Tomáš Sobotka


After a rest we did the RP attempt. The climbing of all pitches in one day was quite exhausting. The difficulty of all pitches do not give us any possibility of the rest. From heating climbing shoes our feet pains a lot, so we had to climb as quick as possible. After 10,5 hours we reached the top and so we ticked the 1st RP of the route. The other day Hari and Floe did the 2nd repetition.


Tomáš in the key pitch 7c+ of the Shortcut

photo by© Ondra Beneš



Harald in the 14th pitch 7c of the Shortcut

photo by© Ondra Beneš



Topo of the route Shortcut


We spent the rest days by climbing of the other routes, by taking of photos and film the shots for video movie. Tomáš ands Floe sent OS climb of 400 m route "Always on sun" 7c+ on massive Tsaranoro Karambony.
Ondra did after 3 days of practising repeate 650 m route "Bravo les files" (first ascenters L.Hill-N.Feagan-K.Pyke-B.Rodden) on massive Tsaraoro Avaratra.
The rest of time we spent on the north of the island in the city of Diego Suarez (Atsiranana) - the town of beautiful women, beaches, limestone climbing on the mainland and small isles. Madagaskar is beautiful country with the very nice people. We recommend it very much. Believe you will enjoy it same well as we did.


Children

photo by© Tomáš Sobotka



The girl with rice

photo by© Ondra Beneš



8b on islands Nosy Hara, Tomáš Sobotka climbing, Hari Berger belaying

photo by© Ondra Beneš


We wanted to thank:

ČHS (Czech Mountaineering Union)
HUDY sport a Rock Empire
Hilti - Petr Maštálko
Direct alpine
Tendon

The other info and photos at: www.hudy.czwww.horosvaz.cz (Czech language)

D.Žleb Company


D.Žleb Company (Tomáš Sobotka on left, Ondra Beneš right)

photo by© Tomáš Sobotka


(Translated by Lezec.cz)

Ondra Beneš and Tomáš Sobotka   [edit] 00:33 06.11.2006Print 

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...new commentsNew comment 

 bravo les filles10:50:54 16.11.2006
I'd like to know if Benes did a complete redpoint of 'bravo les filles'. as far as I know Lynn Hill wasn't able to free climb the crux of the route until their depart and that it was a possible 8b(+?).
did any other teams free the crux section yet?

marcreply 
 Re: bravo les filles21:35:18 25.11.2006
hi
yes. me and H.Berger we did it all free, in one day, in Rp style.After 3 days training Hari did it all and I did it day later.All route without falls, Rp in one day (6 hours).We thing that the crux pitch is 8b no more.
cau Ondra Benes
ondra benesreply 

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