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Three routes, two jumps

North faces of the Tre Cime

While on expedition in Patagonia in March of 2005, Dean Potter and Thomas Huber thought out bold plan: To climb the north faces of Cima Picolla, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest in one day. The key to the plan's success was to figure out the fastest descent.

The realization of this imposing plan for both climbers started on September 11, 2006. The vision "three routes, two jumps and one day" began to materialize shortly after midnight, when both actors began the route 'Ötzi trifft Yeti'. It is a modern sport route on Cima Piccola, 8+ UIAA. Also scheduled that day were 'Phantom der Zinne' on Cima Grande 9 UIAA, and 'Schweizer Dach' on Cima Ovest, also 9 UIAA. All together more then 45 pitches of climbing in 24 hours, two in the 9th grade and 16 in the 8th grade UIAA.
  At 4.00 a.m. they had already toped out on the first route by light of their headlights. They waited until morning light and the first 270 meter long jump followed.  At half past six they both began the route 'Phantom der Zinne' on Cima Grande. They reached the top at 13.00 and the second base jump happened went off without a hitch.
  At 3 pm they began the 'Schweizer Dach' on  Cima Ovest. Thomas lead and for the first 20 metres everything is alright. suddenly Thomas felt a trounling pain in his shoulder and they had to finish the entire event. The big idea ends and long four month rehabilitation phase starts...
  The entire action was realised with assistence from a team of friends, who took pictures (Heinz Zak), and also of camera crew (so we could look forward to some next mountain film festival..., remark of the translator).


The night ascent via the route Ötzi trifft Yeti 8+, Cima Piccolla

photo by© Heinz Zak



Thomas Huber on the route Phantom der Zinne 9, Cimu Grande 

photo by© Heinz Zak



Dean Potter on Phantom der Zinne, Cima Grande

photo by© Heinz Zak




During the ascent to Cima Grande: Thomas climbing, Dean belaying

photo by© Heinz Zak



The fast descent - base jumping

photo by© Heinz Zak


The loose, short translation of the article + photos according to www.huberbuam.de with the personal courtesy of Thomas Huber. More pictures from the event are at the hyperlinked site of the Huber´s brothers.

Thomas Huber (loose transl. by Lezec.cz)   [edit] 21:02 22.01.2007Print 

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