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The new Czech route, City of Gods in Brazil has been unbolted

The new route City of Gods 8a+, that two Czech climbers- Tomas Sobotka and Jiri Lautner- put up in January 2007 in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, on Mount Pao de Azúcar (Sugar Loaf) has been unbolted.

Cedric Larcher from Kairn.com, which is published from Argentina, wrote me the news. According to his information it is forbidden to bolt any route in this zone for ecological reasons.
This new route led to a real problem in Rio, and the local federation nearly decided to unbolt all the routes of this sector, he wrote.
Tomas Sobotka wrote me last week about the decission to chop the route: "Before we began the route, we asked several times and the only limitation we were given was the prohibiton of power drills and doing the routes on east and south face, which was under the surface of cactuses. Three weeks and plenty of climbers saw us there, and nobody had a problem. A week before our departure the local guides started to say that they don't want the new route there, to not begin some boom of new routes on the Sugarloaf. We do not believe it would happen, because locals are not able to set up new bolts even on small cliffs, so they climb toprope. We argree to the removal of the bolt hangers, so the bolts will still be at interested climbers´ disposal and climbers will have to screw them during the ascent. But according to what I have seen, nobody will climb it. But it's not important, we are glad we climbed it, and they can do whatever they want. After we climbed it someone had already stolen from the belay stations even old slings, I think someone will stole also the bolts."

Standa   [edit] 00:05 04.03.2007Print 

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 Answer from Rio08:13:53 08.03.2007
I have got a reaction via my South American friend from Rio climbers. They commented the Czech guys pretend that Rio climbers are climbing only top rope and don't have the level for doing 8a. According the locals nearly 100 climbers from Rio climb 8 degrees, some up to 8c/+. And this is not top rope climb. Also this mistake according to the locals proves that the Czechs searched the local conditions unadequate.
 Standareply 

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