Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry

Competitions
Petrohradské Padání (26.04)
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)
Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj (16.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
44.Hebelka 10153
45.Fišer 10128
46.Nyč 10087
Bouldry:
44. 8503
45.Chochola 8450
46.Majdloch 8425
Hory:
15.Sukačová 4411
16.Magič 4292
17. 4064

Results
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)
SP Čína (09.04)

Diary
5552 lezců
1096437 cest
Nové přelezy:
Iron Maide 10-
Kuře Na Pa 7C
Chameleon 10
Krkavčí Ma 9+/10-
Cenizo 7c
Cenizo 7c
Vlčí Hlad 7C
L´Oubliée 7c
Temný Hvoz 7C+
Subjektivn 7C+

Indoors
Orel Břeclav - Břeclav
Mariánské lázně - Mariánské Lázně
Žlutá Kobra - Plzeň

Shops
AIX -lezecké chyty a stěny - Praha
Namche - Outdoor, Travel & Climbinig Center, s.r.o. - Praha 8
HUDYsport - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam, chalk, Andreas etc.

The Controversy on Czech Sandstone

The penalizing of Adam Ondra for using magnesium at Czech sandstones areas is considered by many of the pro-chalk supporters as nonsense and to create an alibi for the Union.

The reality is that in some sandstone areas in the Czech Republic chalk has been used for more than 20 years; among these areas is the Labak (Labe Valley, northern Bohemia) where the photos of Adam were taken.

Not only do all the elite climbers use chalk, but nearly everybody who climbs there does too. It is considered as a big example of hypocrisy, because all Czech mountaineering union sponsored athletes climb there with chalk as well. In almost every photo of elite climbers in hard routes from Czech sandstone there is chalk, even in photos on the official union site www.horosvaz.cz
http://www.horosvaz.cz/index.php?cmd=page&id=112.
The prohibition of chalk was recently renewed in the climbing rules by the Union plenary assembly with the exception of the Moravian sandstone areas, where there is not a strong anti-chalk tradition (the chalk prohibition has never been implemented there). The Executive committee of the Union should have made a decision themselves about the use of chalk in the spring of 2007. But they didn't, and it was handed over to the members of the plenary assembly of the Union, which decided -without adequate and reasonable discussion- to keep the ban by roughly 2:1.
Many of the delegates in the assembly represent climbing clubs which only have a few members who are still active and who really know what the situation in sandstone is today. The others are former climbers who are still members of the union for nostalgic reasons, who maybe climb three weekends a year. They would like to keep the ban on chalk because of nostalgia for the 'old days,' and as they don't climb much anymore so the ban no longer affects them. 
The anti chalk rule in Labak was created only by the climbing union; it is not limited by law or the rules of the national park itself. In other areas it is required even in the park's regulations; yet again the source of these rules is the climbing union. The conservationists say: If you say it is so in your rules, so we should put it even in our nature protection rules.

The committee of Union punished Adam not for climbing with chalk, but because the photo of him climbing with chalk was published in the Internet media. Another curious thing has been reported that the committee decided to penalize Adam during an event with union sponsored athletes in Adrspach- the most traditional Czech area- where all of them climbed with chalk. Adrspach is one such area where chalk is prohibited not only by the union but even by the natural park regulation.

The committee argued more against the portrayal of chalk usage in the media, instead of refusing it at all. Adam was punished (by the cutting of 1/10 of the Union subsidy which is about 300 Euros/year, so he lost about 30 E) but everybody from the committee knows that everybody climbs there with chalk. The reason they chose Adam was possibly because he the Czech's most famous climber right now.  The incident has opened more intensive discussion between Czech traditionalists  and modern active climbers who would like to compare their skills and the Czech’s charming sandstone areas with the rest of the World.

Btw. Concerning Andreas Bindhammer climbing in the Labak valley, it was a week before the committee's decision. Andreas was informed about the situation in the valley, that according to the official climbing rules chalk should not be used there, but that the reality is that the climbing elite climbs  hard routes with chalk. The day Andreas visited everybody was using it, even the Union sponsored athletes. Andreas just behaved like a normal person would do, that means he just followed the example of the locals.

Standa Holec   [edit] 21:00 15.06.2007Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 comments22:50:26 15.06.2007
actually we could say, that chalk prohibition wasn't renewed but reconfirmed (since it was never legalized, was it?). The problem is that the heads of CHS are former elite climbers, who are willing to overlook most of misconduct of today's elite climbers. But the majority of members never felt the need to change the rules and therefore it was never allowed on bohemian sandstone. Another problem is that big sponsor called Hudysport who supports elite  czech climbers and owns majority of czech outdoor market is paying big money to CHS and to the commitees of sport climbing and we could easily say they are buying the present situation that CHS doesn't do something about the present situation (they aren't allowed by plenary to legalize and they are pushed by Hudysport for notseeing misdones of representants - after quite a long and painful discussion of representants that are not following the rules - not only for using chalk where it is prohibited, but also climbing in times it is not allowed and other). But well this is quite long discussion since representation wants more money for being the best of group and majority (like 99,9 percent) is not willing to pay them more than 34 percent from the whole annual income. They actually want better maintainance of rocks, publication of metodics,... and they don't want to send two, three best climbers for holidays trips around the world for the whole year because of their incompetence to get another sponsor than members of CHS.
As everyone knows the annual income of CHS is 213000 Euros, 58000 euros goes for adminitration, the sporting section takes around 72333 Euros, quite impresive i have to admit, how we are wasting money and for restoration of protection we are giving just 46666 Euros, well sounds weird. So let's put it that way, there are 12000 members of CHS. About 30 of them gets 72333 euros, the rest gets less that just 30 of "chosen ones". Actually in the part for normal members there is hidden revenues for climbs of year :), grants for youth (usually gained by kids in representation - of course, when the people who are dividing the grants are their parents it is quite normal, that they propose as a winning grant theirs).
Well i know that Lezec (climber) is in czech nicknamed Ležec (Liar) and well know for censorship about the chalk in the group of comments anti-chalk so I don't really expect this post remain here for a long time, but still maybe.
commentatorreply 
 Re: comments23:32:48 15.06.2007
Thanks for the comment. Ok. Only I must disagree with that the word Ležec is liar, you gave at least wrong translation of the word, on contrary this web is open editorial system for all climbing community and everybody can contribute, and there has been no censorship of any opinion which was not vulgar.
 Standareply 
 Re: comments08:32:00 16.06.2007
Hi Commentator,

Nobody is going to erase your comments, in fact I found the info regarding $ enlightening. But the issue of distribution of funds withing the Union and the use of chalk are separate.

Furthermore, the use of name-calling (ad hominem argument) is a false line of logic.

Lastly, it is easy to post things like calling names when you write anonymously, isn't it?

 Andrewreply 

 Photo of the day:

Master Blaster, 10-/10
 Routes:
All routes (174433)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Reciprocita 7A Tisá - Modřín
CO2 Min Amour 6a+ Thaurac
Changement De Champs Rèjo 6a Thaurac
Beer 6b+ Torcal De Antequera
Veo Veo Right 6b Desplomilandia
Latest comments:
Big Brother 10 Sloup
Big Brother 10 Sloup
Big Brother 10 Sloup
Big Brother 10 Sloup
Kočičí Den IXb Frýdštejn

 New in discussion:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Re: Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. |

 Latest comments:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | -1 OR 3+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 2+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 3*2>(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3*2<(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- | -1 OR 2+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (38)
Lucie Hrozová: boulder 8A flash (17)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.