Yesterday the Czech Mountaineering union (CHS) published a new decision about Adam Ondra (the Czech's highest ranked rock climber, 14 years) about his usage of chalk (magnesium) at Czech traditional sandstone areas where it is forbidden. The new penalty: suspension from CHS activities for 1 year, if he again breaks the rules with one year.
Adam Ondra was originally penalised for climbing with chalk on sandstone by the Committee of Alpinisum (CHS) in June, 2007. He was at this time punished by reducing his Union subsidy by 10%, which in total is about 300 Euros/year, so he lost about 30 E. But after the decision came under criticism and it was duly noted that all Czech mountaineering union (CHS) sponsored athletes climb on sandstones with chalk, the original penalty was cancelled and the case was given to the Disciplinary Committee of CHS to make the new decision which was published just now. The Disciplinary Committee also resolved that the other sponsored climbers should follow suit, and that the decision should be published soon.
The Disciplinary Committee of CHS explains:
"The closed meeting of the Disciplinary Committee on 25.10.2007 was about the rule breaker... represented by his mother, Mrs. Eva Ondrova.
She stated:
- Accepted, Adam Ondra really climbed on sandstone with chalk and that he broken existing rules for climbing on Czech sandstone.
- She said the rules are bad, not adequate to the reality and were approved by a mistake in the process - directly by the general assembly without appropriate discussion within the climbing Committee, and without possibility of suggestions and change fromm the climbing community.
- E. Ondrova said, that the photographs of Adam climbing with chalk considered as proof and a bad example of breaking the rules were published without approval of her and Adam and then they have since been deleted.
- Regarding the question if Adam will continue to climb on Czech sandstones with chalk she answered that sandstone climbing is not the main aim of Adam, but some times he could try some hard projects. But if he will be for sandstones climbs punished he will not go to sandstones at all.
Therefore the committee gave the punishment: suspension of sport activity for 1 year.
The committee declined to comment about the statement that the rules are bad and out of the process, because they are approved by the general assembly and valid for the members.
Because of mitigating circumstances- especially the the young age of Adam, his sport success even abroad, and compliance with the committee's decision, Adam would rather not climb on sandstone not to brake the rules again- the committee reduced the punishment by the conditional respite for the trial period 1 year.
The source in Czech
www.horosvaz.cz
The article about the first penalisation of Adam:
Adam Ondra Has Been Penalized - By the CHS for using Chalk
The article which explains the background of the situation
Adam, chalk, Andreas etc. - The Controversy on Czech Sandstone