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Czech sponsored team in Osp

Report

The Czech representative team spent one short week meeting and climbing together at Osp, Slovenia, in March 12-17, 2008. Check out the character of the members, presented by the coach Petr Resch

The send train was started by Martin Stranik who climbed the shorter variant of Sanjskyj par, 8c. In the moment nobody knew how many times he would climb the route while trying the extension...

This historical (and probably also the first) meeting of the Czech sport climbing team on natural rocks was attended by almost the entire set of the top climbers from Czech. Missing was only boulderer Martin Spilka and Misa Drlikova,  who was in France. And here are in alphabetical (it may be unusual but why always put numbers first?) order the best of the best:

Filip Harna (Fufa)



Filip Harna

foto by © Vojtech Vrzba


A calm, friendly young man. At least he was not taller than me. But seriously, there is something in the boy... He climbs relaxed, naturally and with a good dose of power potential. He was climbing almost always and he did not keep at anything too long. I look forward to when he will  ripen and grow up. And I will once again be the shortest.

Helena Lipenska



Helena Lipenska

foto by © Azbest


The first word that occurred to me was "serious lady". But really. Super person with super perspective of climbing, with reasonable judgment and definitely not hotheaded. And she takes her climbing very seriously. She arrived to Osp mainly to climb meters. The result probably was not her personal best, well the season is just beginning.  On the other side she came, with her partner Tomas Mrazek, already tired from a trip to Spain so they trained with clean heads. And just one remark: Helena helped to make friendship among the group...

Tomáš Mrázek

 

Tomas Mrazek

foto by © Azbest


The legend. Clear head, brutal power. Tomas is unbelievably frank and sometimes too direct in his opinions. Who doesn't know him could see it differently, I can imagine, that it is the arrogance of a star, but that's false.  He can kick it with team and I am really glad he prefers the form of these meetings (and that perhaps above all) above individual trips. The whole time he climbed in his competition clothes representing Czech Republic, and behaved really professionally. I am really glad that he wants to do a lot of climbing on rocks and also bouldering this year. In his calendar for 2008 are also Petrohradske PADani and Mello blocco. Just before our departure I went to watch his OS of „Bitka se stalaktity" (originaly 8b+) and I have the impression that he was bored during the route.  Helena lied down on a pad, while Tomas looked vainly for  difficulties. I think he said something about 8a+.

Adam Ondra (Dipsy)



Adam Ondra

foto by © Azbest


Lately you hear his name everywhere and to watch him climb could disgust someone from further climbing. Before the trip people were wondering what Adam will climb in Osp, but Adam had a hand written plan and began by trying to OS a new 8c directly in Osp's cave. The first compulsory 15 metres via roof he simply went and then he reached into an unclear forest of 15 cm long tufas. 180 degree turns, leading with legs, then arms, then legs again and in the end he got tired and fell. I would say it was respectable attempt for OS: no chalk, and a big wet pocket cold by overseen easily....
Adam is a climber in body and soul and in every one of his cells. To his enormous endurance and finger strength he has gained super power in his arms and has grown up a lot. I would bet he will reach 190 cm in two years. He also has a smart head, that can be read in his interviews, he gives with pleasure. He thinks Osp is quite hard classified, that could be proved by unusual number of tries in Sanjsky par dovrha, which the locals moved up to 8c+/9a, but in some other areas it would be 9a. And the proof of the Adam's judgment - look he does not downgrade everything, only the ascents he is really persuaded that it is easier. This route was on 8a.nu as 9a.

Kristyna Ondrova



Kristyna Ondrova

foto by © Azbest

Well it would be hard work. What to write about a person I have only just met? So Kristyna, has surely a good climbing perspective. Osp did not match her style, but despite that 8a was not far away at all.

Silva Rajfová



Silva Rajfova

foto by © Vojtěch Vrzba

She came to Osp under threat of some illness, but she tried to work hard. She has got the biggest power, which was confirmed by a quick sent of 8a and also she tried Marjeticu (8b/b+), she would like to return to it. I am little bit disappointed by the fragmentation of her interests, even concerning climbing. I think it is the main reason she does not dominate even more.

Martin Stráník (Noo noo)



Martin Stranik

foto by © Vojtěch Vrzba

The hard worker, with whom no one would like to wrestle. I think that a bit schizophrenic Tadej did not anticipate what he was doing when he took down the quickdraws  from "his" route (it is said it could be 9b, but you have to prohibit this hold and that one too). Luckily the boys are easy going and Martin put his bear power to climbing instead of to some dishonest fight. Now I should explain the introduction of the article, what happened with the Martin's send. Martin climbed quite quickly Sanjsky par 8c, and he was satisfied. Those clever around persuaded him to try the extension. What is a couple moves more? So he climbed the first part many times but the 9a is 9a and the difference between the shorter and longer variation is not there without reason. So what more to say about Martin? I think, that all that stands has already been said, he is a really hard worker.

Rosta Stefanek



Rosta Stefanek

foto by © Vojtěch Vrzba

It is pity that Rosta was not alphabetically in the beginning or the end, because his presentation I did not expect. For that I was delighted. Some reader asked here in the forum that he is curious how Rosta will struggle with the Osp climbing character. So he struggled, tried a lot of routes, but everywhere the holds were too big. Only in the crux of Marjetica (8b/b+, the crux is the boulder with edge under hole for rest) he walked, because he matched on edge where all others just run further.

Edita Vopatová



Edita Vopatova

foto by © Azbest

Oh. You're so talkative. Edita came to Osp as one of the germ-carriers, but anyways she showed she can climb. She only made me a bit angry when I advised her how to flash a route and she climbed it completely different. What? Why not to try couch the young girls? More when she said she would like this year only climb, climb and climb.


Have you expected anything more serious? Well may be next time.

The realy superb photos in: Gallery Osp 2008

Petr Resch   [edit] 12:12 09.05.2008Print 

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