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Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové

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SP skialpy Cortina d’Ampezzo ITA (06.04)
SP Šanghaj (09.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)

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AIX ÁDR BOULDER SESSION (09.03)
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ČP v bouldrech Praha (17.02)

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Hungry Eye 8+/9-
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Kdyby Pras 9
Dolly Bust 9+

Indoors
Umělá lezecká stěna - II.ZŠ - Moravská Třebová
Boulder club Kotelna Brno - Brno
KLAJDA - lezecké centrum Brno - Brno - Maloměřice

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Ing. Jan Zavadil - PROFITSPORT - Plzeň
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
SAMBAR sport Kladno - Kladno - Kročehlavy

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Interview with Ines Papert

A woman from the mountains, it was the first thing what came up to my mind after I met her in Bad Schandau where she had a slide show. Ines Papert is not only four time Ice Climbing World Champion in difficulty, but also great climber, mountain climber, congenial woman and mother of ten boy who simply lives her dreams ...

First off, I must apologize, I am purely a rock climber and am not very familiar with ice, picks and the like… but honestly, I have always admired ice climbers, especially female ice climbers, and have a lot of questions for you. Let’s start with a question about when you first started climbing:

You started climbing later in life, why did you wait so long?

I grow up in Eastern Germany near Leipzig. I went to school to become a Physiotherapist and finished my education at the age of nineteen. After graduating, I tried to find a job in my profession. Our family would travel to Giant Mountains (Czech Republic) every year and I was very keen on skiing, so I tried to find a job that was near the mountains.

So the main reason that you moved closer to the mountains was skiing, not climbing?

Yes, mainly skiing, but after that I started hiking, mountaineering and sometimes climbing. Initially, I started mountain climbing and for the first year I totally avoided sport climbing, but after I reached a certain level of expertise, I wanted to improve, so I started sport climbing. At the time, I was about 24 – 25 years old.


Ines Papert

foto by archiv@Ines Papert


For many climbers the name Ines Papert equals “Queen of Ice”. How true is this statement?

You know, I feel really solid in ice climbing, but I also like a sport and multi-pitch climbing. I participate in all kinds of climbing activities, including: competition, mixed routes, ice routes and multi-pitch. Ice climbing is only one part of my climbing life.

If you had to choose, would you say you are a climber, an ice climber, or a mountaineer?

I feel at home in mountains. Yes, I prefer the mountains. I prefer the long routes, the Himalayas, and it’s even better if the route includes ice.

Why did you start out ice climbing? Did it come naturally? Were you especially talented in that area?

I don’t know why I am better at ice climbing, maybe it’s because I really enjoy it? I like the structure of the ice, the shape of the ice, the different colors and that you must be there at the correct time of year. In some places, you can only climb the ice during a short weather window… I find that interesting. 


Ines Papert při on-sightu Flying Circusu M10, 

Visual Impact/Rainer Eder- www.rainereder.com


Describe how your relationship with ice and mixed climbing evolved. When did you begin taking it seriously?

When Manu was born in 2000, I stopped climbing for a bit. After a while, a friend asked me to start competing and I started by ice climbing outside. After a few competitions, I realized that I had talent and I decided to keep training. Each year, my skill level increased and I learned more and more about the ice. I stopped competing and began to climb outside more and now I have many projects in the mountains on mixed routes and ice. Competing was a good way to learn how to train, use the tools and get used to the cold.

Why did you stop competing?
One day, I said to myself that I was done with plastic. The atmosphere between competitors had changed. When I first started, there were climbers who climbed outside, in the alps and in the mountains, they had travelled to Canada and were talking about the hard sends outside. A lot of strong young climbers started to compete and they had never climbed in the Alps – they grew up on plastic. We didn’t talk to each other, there was no more fun, no parties, and the focus was on competing. Don’t get me wrong, I take this sport seriously, but for me it was about friends, travelling, the stories, hard climbs outdoors, about passion… everything had started to change and it felt like a different world. That is why I left competitions, but I also left because I wanted to climb outside more and the preparation was different -- for me, it was exciting and like starting a new life. Also, my son Manuel was a factor; I simply didn’t have time for competitions and climbing outside…

Describe your training process. Was it different while you were competing?

Now, my training is a little bit different.  We have a small boulder gym. We put there the plastic holds that are just for ice climbing and I train there for two months when winter starts. But we also climb also a lot outside. We have many dry tools or mix areas near my house – they are only an hour away. When I competed we trained a lot inside and dry tooling. If you do competitions you must used to be artificial holds. I don’t do other extra exercises. I have campusboard at home, but I am very lazy for that – I should do more:)

Do men and women have a different style in ice climbing?
Yes, of course. Women must be more creative. Usually a woman’s body weight is different from a man’s and men are naturally stronger. Therefore, women must be more technical.

You started your professional career in 2001 – one year after your son was born. Usually, having a child makes women give up dangerous sports, but you turned it into a living. Have you ever had second thoughts?
It as a living. Have you ever had doubts about it?

I do what I want to do and the company I work with agrees with my choices because they know I have a child. They give me freedom. Of course some women’s magazines write about me like about mother who does dangerous sports, but I always explain that I have a lot of experience and I don’t put myself on the risk.


Ines Papert

foto by archiv@Ines Papert


What does say your son about your lifestyle?
He was always part of my trip, he’s travelled a lot with me, he is very open-minded and he accepts that other moms go to work and I go climb. It is totally normal for him. He would never say, don’t go climb mum, he knows I have to – no I don’t have to, I really want to  You know, in my life I try to find balance. I cannot live like: now I am a professional climber and when I turn forty I am a mom. No, I need a balance, my family and my friends…  I live my world.

I really admire that your son was born in 2000 and you won your first overall World Cup in Ice Climbing the next year.  How did you get into shape so quickly? Do you have a secret formula for woman after pregnancy?
You know I never felt as strong as I did after my son was born. It was such a special feelings and, also, I didn’t have much time then, so when I could train or climb I did much more efficiently than before. So I got back into shape very quickly. What I found out is that you need time for yourself.  Some women when they get out climbing can really enjoy it; the other mums are full of remorse, they feel like they should stay home with their kids. I think is important to take off sometimes.


Super Cirill (8a/8a+), Tessin, Valle Bavona

foto by visualimpact.ch /Thomas Senf




Super Cirill (8a/8a+), Tessin, Valle Bavona

foto by visualimpact.ch /Thomas Senf



Super Cirill (8a/8a+), Tessin, Valle Bavona

foto by visualimpact.ch /Thomas Senf


What I sometimes don’t understand is dry tooling…it seems to me like sport climbing with ice axes, but very unstable, very unsure…
Of course you must climb in exact dry tooling spots where there are usually very loose rock. I take dry tooling, as training and I always prefer some ice in it.

We are talking just about ice climbing, but you have done quite lot also in big walls, like your ascents of Symphonie de Liberte 8a on the Eiger Northface, Last Exit on Titlis 8a+/b , Pellisier 8b on Grande Cima de Lavaredo or your last ascent Tessin's hardest route Super Ciril. What kind of routes do you prefer?
I prefer longer routes and my favorite material is granite. I am little sorry that I don’t have it at my country and I must travel for it as for Super Ciril to Switzerland.

When did you dropped down in Super Ciril, you always cleaned the pitch and placed again while you were climbing. Is that the right style for you – as clean as possible?
Yes, that is my style. I don’t do it on limestone, where quickdraws are fixed. The funny story was last year when we did a photo shooting in Super Ciril. The photographer forced me to do the same move again and again. I always pulled down all the gear and lead it again, but one gear had to stay on because of decent. I asked photographer to cleaned in Photoshop, because I don’t climb like that 


Ines Papert v přelezu "Law and order" M13 (2007)

foto by archiv@Ines Papert


What do you think about headpointig?
If I do a new route or climb some hard routes I try to free climb as much as possible and then I use an aid climb.  Then I top rope hard moves and I try to figure out where I will place the gear for free ascent. It is better not to do, but sometimes it is not possible. I am not used to granite as much, so if I will go for one month to Yosemite and than I come back then there would be a difference. I would never walk up and rappel the route and try. I always lead it from the bottom.

Now a really girly question: You don’t mind the cold?
No, or if it‘s- 25 and you are in bivouac than you hate the cold, everybody does, but it’s part of the game.  But I don’t do many bivouacs.

When are you satisfied with your ascent?
For example when we were traveling to Cirque of the Unclimbables and people always told us that the weather is so bad there and that you are lucky if you have a weather window…And we finally made it there, a lot, open and free climbed
"Power of Silence”, first free ascent of Riders on the Storm - East Huey Spire, NE Face, onsight of "South East Buttress" 5.10c on Lotus Flower Tower 800m.
So it was a three-week trip and we rested only one day. One day before our airplane flew we did the free ascent of our route. Just amazing.

Do you climb always with women?
I like to climb with women, but I also climb with men. Boys usually believe more in our climb. Girls usually say,“ I am not sure I can do it”.  I need partner who will say, “Yes, go for it, we will do it”!


Ines Papert

foto by visualimpact.ch /Franz Walter


I heard that you had a very bad climbing accident? What had happened?
Yes, it was 2005. I broke my thighbone, cut part of the rope and we hanged in one piton at the end. I fell 20 meters.

How long did it take to recover?
About two months.

Was this a turning point? Did it change you?
Yes, I listen to my feelings more… because the day it happened, my son sad to me for the first time, “don‘t go mum” and I went, because I felt I don’t climb enough.

Now your climbing targets have become mountains, alpine climbing, ice climbing. You are always pushing your limits. This year you visited Ben Nevis again and did a couple of hard climbs, everything without bolts, only with gear. Is this a new climbing style? A new climbing chapter?  Why?
I like it because is something new. It was my second visit in Scotland and I learned so much, and every piece that I learned, I can use for mountain climbing. It helps me to increase my level in Himalaya. That was the reason I pushed my limits there.


Ines Papert - první ženský přelez, Camillotto Pellisier 8b, Grande Cima de Lavaredo

foto by archiv@Ines Papert


What about Kyzyl Asker. Where do you go back? Last year you have finished 200 meters below top…
Yes, we have already booked our plane tickets. We are going little bit earlier this year to avoid the bad weather. In this route we don’t leave anything behind us, only two slings for rappelling down. So we will try to finish it up.

Who are your mentors?
There are many of them. I like to read the articles about a hard ascent; I also know many of them… I admire many climbers, for example Ueli Steck.



foto by Hans Hornberger



foto by Hans Hornberger


Your show has name Forever dreaming. Do you manage fulfill your dreams?
Yes, one part of my life is dreams, it is good to fulfill some of them, but some of them must stay as dreams. One my dreams is climb in Antarctica… 



Simona    [edit] 09:57 10.08.2011Print 

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