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Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové

Competitions
Petrohradské Padání (26.04)
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)
Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj (16.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
43.Podstata 10188
44.Hebelka 10153
45.Fišer 10128
Bouldry:
43.Štambachr 8512
44. 8503
45.Chochola 8450
Hory:
30.Malý 2409
31.Jansa 2401
32.Procházková 2382

Results
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)
SP Čína (09.04)

Diary
5551 lezců
1096127 cest
Nové přelezy:
Kamikaze 7c
La Familia 8a
Hobit 7C
Společenst 7C
Král Downi 7C+/8A
Galadriel 7C
Návrat Krá 8A
Heros 7C
Vzali Mi M 7C
Matrix Xb

Indoors
Stěny v Hejnici - Hejnice (okr. Liberec)
gymnázium Orlová - Orlová-Lutyně
Areál sportu - Bystřice nad Pernštejnem

Shops
HUDYsport - Praha 6
AIX -lezecké chyty a stěny - Praha
HUDYsport - Praha 5

Contact
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standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
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IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba




Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

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