Juraj Koreň and Radoslav Groh: first ascent of Grossglockner

On March 7, Slovak-Czech climbers Juraj Koreň and Radoslav Groh made the first ascent of the south face of Austria's highest mountain, Grossglockner (3,798 m). The new route was named Kaiser Direkt, measures approximately 500 meters, and is rated M7 in difficulty by its creators.

The route leads through prominent corners, slabs, and cracks with difficulties ranging from M4+ to M6. The third pitch is key – an overhanging corner with a good crack and poor footholds.

After the initial pitches, the route continues across a snowfield to a pillar leading towards Kleine Glockner and further across snowfields below the summit. The pair finally climbed to the main summit of Grossglockner via the normal route. They left one piton at the belay at the end of the seventh pitch.

See the report on the climb on the Facebook page of the Slovak mountaineering association JAMES:



Standa Holec   [edit] 07:02 13.03.2026

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