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Category:
  Mandala Direct
We received a message about new route in Buttermilks called Mandala Direct.
Commentaries (0)12.04.2007... full story
 Prague's mayor is in Himalayas to climb Everest
The mayor of the City of Prague, Pavel Bem, is doing  acclimatisation trips in Himalayas on the beginning of the the attempt to climb to Mount Everest.
Commentaries (0)05.04.2007... full story
 World Cup in bouldering Erlangen, Germany
World Cup in bouldering Erlangen, Germany: Silva Rajfová finished today in finals 4th, Tomas Mrazek finished on the 14th place.
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UPDATE: Czech climber Libor Hroza (Mammut) won the speed climbing competition in Shenzen, China. Among women Cheng Lai-Sho won. We have learnt it from Libor Hroza who arrived from China today afternoon.
Commentaries (0)27.03.2007... full story
 Mrs. Alena Cepelkova reelected by the Chairman of the CHS
The General assembly of the Czech Mountaineering Union reelected Mrs. Alena Ottova Cepelkova by the chairman of the union today.
Commentaries (0)24.03.2007... full story
 ME Birmingham – bouldering
smTomas Mrazek (CZE) was 3rd today on European Championship in bouldering in Birmingham, UK. Silva Rajfova (CZE) finished 8th.
The podium results:
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1 David Lama (AUT)
2 Nalle Hukkataival (FIN)
3 Tomas Mrazek (CZE)
Women:
1 Juliette Danion (FRA)
2 Olga Shalagina (UKR)
3 Olga Bezhko (UKR)

8. Silvie Rajfova (CZE)
Commentaries (0)18.03.2007... full story
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A pair of Czech climbers Tomas Sobotka and Jiri Lautner set out to make the first ascent on Pao de Azúcar (Pão de Açúcar - Sugar Loaf) in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, at the end of the January 2007.
Commentaries (0)03.03.2007... full story
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It all started on Thursday, January 25.  My dad came home from work and asked me: „Don´t you want to go with the Ondras´ to Spain? Eva wrote me, and she has space.
Commentaries (0)23.02.2007... full story
 Czech ascent to Meru awarded by Climbing Magazine
smCzech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger got an "Honourable mention" for their first ascent of the Meru Central in Garhwal Himalaya, India by the American magazine Climbing in its Golden Piton awards celebration.
Commentaries (0)07.02.2007... full story
 Serkan Ercan
Serkan Ercan (Seko) (25) is the best male climber in Turkey, having sent many routes 8a and harder including the hardest route in Turkey 8c+.
Commentaries (0)02.02.2007... full story
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Mandala Direct

We received a message about new route in Buttermilks called Mandala Direct.

As everybody knows Mandala, which is probably one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is situated in Buttermilks, Bishop CA and was first climbed by Chris Sharma in early 2000.

The problem climbs a steep prow on a large granite boulder and was considered a cool project for many years already before Chris Shatma did it.


Although Chris did not rate it was thought by many to be hard V14. Over time the grading was settled at soft V12/8A+ (Since the first ascent, several holds have broken including one of the crux holds.)

It was given a sit-start by Tony Lamiche  in 2002. The sit-start, got the name  The Mandalion  is about V14/8B+.

Something was still missing. Since the direction of original Mandala was slightly to the left Jeff Sillcox tried to add a straight up. Here you can see some picture from the ascent. Recently Paul Robinson added a sitstart to it and made it even harder.

Jeff called it Mandala Direct and thinks that it’s hard V12.



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12

foto by ©



Andy (support) and Jeff  Red Rocks

foto by © JirkaS


JirkaS   [edit] 20:00 12.04.2007Print 

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