Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Vyšel průvodce Adršpach I.
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
Pískaři jsou zpět!

Competitions
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)
Olympijská kvalifikace Šanghaj (16.05)
ČP obtížnost Praha (18.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
37.Novotná 10340
38.Nosek 10298
39.Galeová 10269
Bouldry:
37.Kalvas 8700
38.Bureš 8650
39.Indrák 8606
Hory:
19.Šofránko 3613
20.Duda 3562
21. 3512

Results
EP boulder Klagenfurt (26.04)
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)

Diary
5566 lezců
1099704 cest
Nové přelezy:
Bernardi 7b
Tangenzial 7b
Bicho Malo 7b+
Prince 7b
El Despist 7c
19 Días Y 7c+
Bicho Malo 7b+
Out Of Ber 10-
Fatamorgan 9
Bokaňa 9

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeň
Lezecká stěna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
LANEX eshop - Bolatice

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Čertovo kopyto

Highballs in Czech

Čertovo kopyto(Devils stump) offers a different sort of rock and is more of highballs paradise.

The rock is rough, dark gray granite and is mainly overhanging. Faces east, making Čertovo Kopyto a good tick on days when the temperature is mild due to shady aspect. All lines are sheltered from the sun and the area is excellent when when wind is blasting the boulders as well as when you need a bit of shade. The crags (a compact wall up to 10m high) themselves are arrayed along this Brzina creek in a north-south arrangement.

The highest wall of Čertovo kopyto


The climbs here range from long (the Iluze boulder has almost 10m) to short, yet there are some great problems, which are not finished yet as well, all of them quite highball.

Most of the development took place in the mid-90's, the work of Peter Obst, and his brother, and Franta Mezera, though the area is mentioned as Čertovo kopyto.



There are roughly 16 routes. Problems range in difficulty (UIAA) from, 5 to 8+ and additionaly with at least the two hard unclimbed problems. Clasification tends to be transfered into Fb in our topo. Holds, namely edges, can be sharp. Expect to pull on micro-pockets, cracks and the occasional glassy sloper, as well as funky pocket holds.


Access


Get There:
Devils stump is best accessed via Příbram direction Sedlčany. Pass the village Obory then the dam Slapy (where you would turn to Roviště climbing area) and keep driving east toward Sedlčany. After 2 km turn right direction Hrachov drive through and at the end of village turn slightly left continue a dirty road 300m till you reach a small creek (Brzina). Here you park and walk along left bank and after 10 minutes you’ll reach the wall.


Bida climbs Iluzi  6B+




Beta 

Problems from right to left:

1) Normálka 3
2) Strašpytel 6A
3) ?
4) Utržená hrana 5C+
5) Hodný ?
6) Zlý ?
7) Ošklivý  ?
8) Prokletí černé perly 6B
9) Cortézovo zlato 6A
10) Projekt
11) Black and Liker 5C
12) Druhé pivo 4
13) Sedřené půlky 6A+
14) Špinavé půlky 6A+
15) Špinavé slipy 6A
16) Krysy z chaty 5C
17) Iluze 6B+
18) Prstožer 6A
19) Myší díra 5A

Don't bother inhabitants at the other bank of the creek it's very much on private land. Probably in past it resulted in destroying of bolts.

JirkaS   [edit] 10:33 25.02.2004Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

Stará cesta na Wolfsturm VIIIa
 Routes:
All routes (174718)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Děravé Dlaně 6C Viklany
Na Hraně Zákona 8 Skály U Kašparova Mlýna
Siloš Dusisma 8-/8 Skály U Kašparova Mlýna
53 Without Name 5c Red Point Wall
53Without Name 5c Red Point Wall
Latest comments:
Gang Bang 6a+ Margalef
Gang Bang 6a+ Margalef
Gang Bang 6a+ Margalef
Gang Bang 6a+ Margalef
Donhauserweg 6 Frankenjura

 New in discussion:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Re: Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. |

 Latest comments:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | -1 OR 3+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 2+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 3*2>(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3*2<(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- | -1 OR 2+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (38)
Lucie Hrozová: boulder 8A flash (17)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.