Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Nová dětská kniha o světové top lezkyni Janje Garnbret
Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry

Competitions
Petrohradské Padání (26.04)
EP boulder Klagenfurt (26.04)
SP Salt Lake City (03.05)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13491
2.Trojan 12371
3.Šindel 12356
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11106
2.Volf 11103
3.Stráník 10775
Hory:
1.Groš 8102
2.Punčochář 6736
3.Černý 6536

Results
ČP obtížnost Brno (20.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)
SP Čína (09.04)

Diary
5552 lezců
1096589 cest
Nové přelezy:
Minotauros 7b
Minimalist 7c+
Carpe Diem 8a
L´Oubliée 7c
Gaining Al 7b+
Streptokoc 7c+
Gaining Al 7b+
Kostelecká 9
Kovový Pan 7C+/8A
Iron Maide 9+/10-

Indoors
Lokal Blok - Praha 5
Boulderbar Flamendr - Kadaň
Lezecké centrum Mammut - Praha 7 - Holešovice

Shops
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Rock Point - NC Eden - Praha 10
Keen Concept Store - Palác Flóra - Praha 3

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Triple North Walls

2 Czechs try 3 FAs in Asian high mountains

„Triple North Walls“ is the attempt to climb three elegant first ascents in different high mountain areas in Asia: in the Nepalese Himalayas, Pakistani Karakorum and Afghan Vachan on three beautiful mountains where have not been more than ten ascents up to now.



We would like to climb in two members team in alpine style and survive in all three faces.

The first one:               
mountain: Kapura 6544 m  - NW face 2000 m of elevation                               
mountains: Karakorum – Charakusa Glacier 
Country: Pakistan



Departure: June 15, return August 1
The untouched north-west face of Kapura. It is the giant growing up from the glacier up to 2 km hight. A small comparison: the top of the Eiger (3970m) is in the same altitude that we will begin our climbing on Kapura.

The Second one:
mountain: Kohe Uparisina 6130 m  -  N face 1500 m of elevation
mountains: Vachan – Ishmurch valley
country: Afghanistan



Departure August 27, then October 4 overflight to Nepal
40 years ago in 1965-68 the history of Czechoslovak high altitude mountaineering had already begun to be written there. So we would like to continue in this excellent performance of the guys, who did the first ascent to the summit many years ago. The unclimbed impressive vertical line goes via the central pillar and divides the north face for two parts and is 1500 m high. The enjoyment will start for sure already during the transport from Kabul to the Vachan corridor via war torn Afghanistan.

The Third one:
mountain: Talung 7349 m  - NW pillar 1800 m elevation 
mountains: East Himalaya - area of Kangchendzönga
Country: Nepal



October 5 arrival from Afghanistan, departure on November 5.
The superb central arete of Talung is the clear suggested direction for climbing up. Our first attempt with Tomas Rinn  in 2004 finished with my frozen feet. No way than to rappel down and flee to the valley. It is quite a distant place where you have to go for „x“ days across the forests with army of leeches and the their human counterparts in the form of Maoists. So perhaps this year we will have better luck.

Underlined conclusion: Jun 15 the shot sounds start the action. So see you for now...


                  Mara Holecek  and  Honza Doudlebsky 


Profiles:
                 
Marek Holecek *1974   

- member of the Czech representative team since 1997
- 5x received awards of the Czech ascent of year and 2x honorary appreciation from the Czech Mountaineering Union
- participated in 15 expeditions to Asian and South American mountains where he did many first ascents.

Jan Doudlebsky *1978
- member of the Czech representative team since 2000     
- 3x received awards of the Czech ascent of year and 3x honorary appreciation from the Czech Mountaineering Union
- participated in 6 expeditions to Asian mountains and did several first ascents 

             
                                  Partners of the action:
 

www.devold.cz
     




www.northtrappers.cz
   
                             

 

www.lanex.cz
   


www.sirjoseph.cz
     


www.horosvaz.cz

           
   

www.suunto.cz
     

     

www.raveltik.cz
         


   

www.kouba.cz
   

                               

www.panasonic.cz
   

   

www.bcamp.cz
     


www.alpin-lt.cz Opava
       


www.shockenergi.cz





 

www.lezeckarevue.cz
 


www.expeditions.cz



www.ceskatelevize.cz



www.czechclimbing.com






                                   


Mara Holecek   [edit] 20:05 06.06.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:

Údržba skal
 Routes:
All routes (174444)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
AW V Bielatal
Pfeilerweg Kaminvar. III Bielatal
Carpe Diem 8a Kyparissi
Talweg VIIa Bielatal
Moose Lips 5.11a Moose Mountain
Latest comments:
Paráda VIIIb Křížový Vrch
Blues Pro Mou Lásku 6B+ Hlavatice
Big Brother 10 Sloup
Bongo Bongo 7A Srbsko
Ortodoncie 6B+ Hlavatice

 New in discussion:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Re: Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. |

 Latest comments:
Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | Mr. | -1 OR 3+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 2+108-108-1=0+0+0+1 | -1 OR 3*2>(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3*2<(0+5+133-133) -- | -1 OR 3+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- | -1 OR 2+133-133-1=0+0+0+1 -- |

 Hot:
Youth European Championship in climbing (38)
Lucie Hrozová: boulder 8A flash (17)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.