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Le Saleve

France is not just Buoux

The La Saleve is the area of France to the south east of Geneve. The superb sport climbing area consisted

of terrific limestone walls in a dramatic and diverse setting. Walls are located on the southwest side of the ridge of the Saleva Mountain near Geneva.




Steep ridge of Le Saleve, sector Coin right bottom



The sector Coin is terrific and bizarre




Location:

The Saleve ridge is situated near Geneva but in France. The location of that outcrop is half hour drive from the Geneva airport and about an hour drive from Chamonix. In case if the weather is unstable, it is not a bad choice to visit Le Saleve than Chamonix.
In principal to get there you can use two routes from the Geneva.
First from Geneva via St Jones: take the route to Annency after passing a couple of traffic circles keep going up the hill and when you see sign La Saleve turn left. Continue for 4 km until you reach first parking place or continue a little bit further to reach refuge du Saleve.
From Geneva or Annemasse, go to Collonges-sous-Saleve, stay left through town and keep going up the hill until you arrive at the tennis courts on the left. Just after the courts is the parking lot for the majority of the climbs.
By public transit take the H bus to the end and then walk (about 30-40 minutes).


Přístup od Refuge du Saleve je snadný


Access :
The starting point for most climbs is the parking lot in front of very friendly bar/refuge known as the "Refuge du Saleve". This Refuge is close to tennis courts and except the large parking lot.  Incidentally, patronize these guys - prices are reasonable, they are funny and helpful. From this point you can reach the most sectors within 15 minutes.


Rozložení sektorů ve svahu


Sectors:
The Saleve is virtually divided into 5 major sectors and has a total of 450 routes. In general routes rated 6a to 6c but they are hard within this grade.
Le Coin
Paroi des Buttikofer
Les Etiollets
Les Balmes
Le Canapé
Boulders are on rolled down boulders under sector Coin.


Jonquelle climbs 6a+ at Corne



Overhanging block of Corne wall


Climbin gear shop:
People says that the best place to find gear is Cactus Sports in Carouge (Geneva), right on the #12 tram line at the stop Place des Armes (where the street is closed to cars). The address is: 
4, rue du Pont-Neuf
CH-1227 CAROUGE
(22) 300 30 01
The owner, Bernard, is also author of the guidebook to the Saleve.


The Corne offers steep walls as well easy slabby routes


Routes:
The Saleve has a total of 450 routes in general routes rated 6a to 6c that in my opinion, are worth the effort.
At this url you can find some info concerning bouldering at Saleve.
http://www.saleve.ch/~chp/grimpege/blocs.htm.


Climate:
The altitude of numerous sectors is round 700m, which means that air temperatures are cooler and when the there is cloudy weather this spot could be very could and windy. The altitude also means that climbing is a comfortable experience in the summer. Summer days namely mornings will be definitely the best time to climb in opposite summer afternoon days when the sun is out then it will be  warm because at that time southwest oriented walls receive maximum sun. Autumn is often fogy and rainy and winter than could serve as a good training for mountaineering.


Holly climbs L'allumer de reverberes 6b in sector Buttikofer


Camping & Bivak:
There is a campground open at the last hairpin before reaching the refuge du Saleve. In addition, the Saleve abounds in good bivvy sites - lots of caves and so on. Get water at the spigot near the refuge.

Topo Maps Navigation:

The best map is Michelin N° 23 fold 2, N° 74 fold 6

The only topo is LE GUIDE DU SALEVE, by Bernard WIETLISBACH, 1990 (something round 20 Euros) we couldn't see it but be aware about classifications.


Parking place - Refuge du Saleve: N46.13686 E6.16244 above the sea level 653 m
Sector Buttikofer: N46.13459 E6.16403 above the sea level 736 m
Sector under Coin: N46.13500 E6.16387 above the sea level 716 m
Sector Coin: N46.13520 E6.16439 above the sea level 727 m

Written by JirkaS and Jonquelle Low

JirkaS   [edit] 10:19 26.04.2004Print 

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