Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové
Slovinsko
Frankenjura Band 1 a Band 2

Competitions
SP Salt Lake City (20.05)
SP Salt Lake City (27.05)
SP Brixen (10.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13822
2.Trojan 12100
3.Šindel 11706
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11600
2.Konečný 11525
3.Volf 11228
Hory:
1.Skopec 8228
2.Bartoš 7426
3.Bloudek 7201

Results
Evropský pohár v boulderingu Praha (30.04)
Petrohradské padání (22.04)
1. kolo ČP obtížnost (15.04)

Diary
5255 lezců
966161 cest
Nové přelezy:
Thumbs Up! 10-/10
Slimline 10-
Rote Kante 10-
Red Zone 10-
Daywalker 9+/10-
Therapeuti 9+
Steep Mud 9+/10-
LSD 9/9+
Pomsta Tro 10-
Pívo A Sla Xb

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeň
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5

Shops
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Greenspit

Hardest trad crack in Europe

Nicolas Favresse repeated  Greenspit  a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.

The route consisted on a 12-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists and finger jams. The route was first redpointed by the strong Swiss crack specialist, Didier Berthod, and features in the movie First ascents.

In Nico's word:  This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I am the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


It was a perfect send. The day was over but there was still just enough light to give a very last try. I was already feeling a little bit tired but I wanted to give it all a last chance. When I arrived at the crux the right piece of pro slipped of my hands and fell to the ground while trying to place it. For a moment I thought it was over then I looked on my harness and saw my last pro I hesitated for a while then turned to my belayer and said: I' ll just go for it!  I placed my very last pro (making it impossible to protect the end of the route) without being able to see how it looked because of the darkness. And I went with my last resources and the chance to hit the ground if I fell at the end of the crux.  Although the route is normally very safe for a traditional climb. 



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez




foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


A few days later, partnered by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas did the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole 5 pitches of (5, 6a+, 6c, 8a, 8b) The route was first all freed climbed by Christian Brenna.
 
It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing  Nico says.

Also on the hard pitches the protections are all fixed so it s not really a trad I had a great time exploring Orco valley mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch and there is still so much to explore.    



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


The photographer is Bernardo Gimenez - http://www.bernardogimenez.com

Source:

Source website Nicolas Favresse

Nicolas Favresse    [edit] 09:09 20.05.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu
 Photo of the day:

Zug um Zug
 Routes:
All routes (157911)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Klenot Slobody 5- Sekaniny
Čiernobiela Var. B 4 Sekaniny
Čiernobiela Var. A 5 Sekaniny
Šaman Es 5- Sekaniny
Empatia 4+ Sekaniny
Latest comments:
Šaman Es 5- Sekaniny
Čertovy Obrázky VIIIa Tisá - Hřebenové Věže
Východní Hrana VIIa Ostaš
Ice Age 9+ Frankenjura
Fisherman´s Friend 9/9+ Frankenjura

 New in discussion:
Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner | Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:

 Hot:

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.