It is now July- a stormy, unsettled month here in the Sierra Eastside. Recently we have been experiencing a heat wave, no doubt caused in large part by the fact that certain European nations won't shut up and do what they are told by the masters of the Northern Hemisphere. I suspect all the hot air coming from European politicians is the source of it all. Billowy, expansive clouds stack on top of each other above the 13,000 ft mountain crest which dominates the western view from my desert home. The Sierras are a truly year round climbing destination with more rock than one could climb in a lifetime. In order to fully appreciate what the Eastern Sierra has to offer, you have to be a diverse climber willing to accept and conform to different rock types and levels of protection: from the tightly bolted volcanic sport areas of the Owens River Gorge and Clark Canyon, to the sparse protection of the granite knob climbing in Tuolumne, to the self reliant style needed for backcountry alpine walls. What skills you use is largely dictated by the season and which venues are accesable at that time.
I done told you they was clouds: thanks a lot to ungrateful Europeans.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Rather that blather on and on about the fine attributes of the area, I would like to introduce it through pictures and commentary. Below is just a sampling of some of the areas to climb in the Sierra during the warm months, say from April until October, focusing mostly on areas within an hours drive or less from Mammoth Lakes, the major vacation destination in the area.
Clark Canyon
Clark Canyon is located just thirty minutes north of the town of Mammoth Lakes, and hosts the highest concentration of summer sport climbing in the area. The cliffs range from 10 to 30 meters, though most of the climbs are well below 30m. Of about 120 routes total, the vast majority are in the moderate 5.10 range- making Clark a great everyman's area. There are, however, a handful of climbs in the 5.12 range which are beautiful.
The volcanic plugs of Clark rise above the jeffrey pine forest, where the scent of pine and sage mingle in one's nose.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Jeff's hero is Patrick Swayze, seriously. No wonder he is trying so hard at Dirty Dancing, 5.12b.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Jim Sillcox enjoying Ruffles, 5.10a at the Potato Patch.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
The author pulling through the crux to the right start of King Spud, 5.12a.
foto byŠ Jim Sillcox
The Dike Wall
The Dike Wall is the finest crag located in the Lakes Basin, which is just above the town of Mammoth, opposite the ski area. This fine piece of granite is situated at a higher elevation than most crags in the area, thus its access largely depends on the snowpack. Generally speaking, the east face is usually dry by June, while the north face may take as long as August to melt off. A great training area because of it's proximity to town, the dike wall maxes out in the easy 5.12 range.
The East face of the Dike Wall sports slightly overhanging, technical granite routes between 25 and 30m in length. Drew Davis, working undercover on Secret Agent Man, 5.12a.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Thin and technical; the crux to Secret Agent Man.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Owens River Gorge
While not really a Summer climbing area, the Gorge is great for the transitional periods where there may still be snow in higher elevations, but the bouldering down in Bishop may be a bit too warm.
This is by far the largest sport venue in the area and, while the Gorge may not be picturesque, it hosts several hundred sport routes- from 5.8 to 5.13. The rock is probably my least favorite in the area, but some people love it. They typical route there sports rather smooth, bland edges up vertical walls, but the routes are very long, and it is great for endurance training.
The Gorge: no sight for sore eyes.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Getting busy on the polished tuff of the North Gorge, Unkown 5.11.
foto byŠ Drew Rollins
If you run into Peter Croft at the Gorge, he has probably already soloed a major peak in the Sierra that morning and will procede to do laps on your project in the afternoon. Here he is on Wooleybugger, 5.12d.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Starting up the crimpy, techical Bushfire, 5.12+.
foto byŠ Drew Rollins
The High Sierra: Basin Mountain
Ah the High Sierra, the jewel that makes this area shine. Indeed, none of the above mentioned areas would have been discovered had it not been for the draw of the Sierras that has lured climbers for over a century. A list of Sierra climbers is like a list of who's who. What the Sierra offer is some of the best alpine rock in the world, coupled with the best weather of any major range. A climbers paradise.
Basin Mountian is by no means the best peak in the range, nor even in the top ten. It does, however, entail 10,000 ft elivation change, mid-angle snow chutes, and 400ft. of low fifth class rock to the summit.
Look for this picture on the cover of your next REI catalog. The sun about to rise over the White Mtns. on the predawn approach to Basin Mtn, 13,200ft.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
The upper snow gully on Basin lasts forever, at least on the way up. 6,000 ft. bellow you can spot the small outcrops which make up the Buttermilk bouldering area.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Summit view from Basin Mt.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Jeff Boon's mom went back to college for an associates degree in legal aide and small engine repair. Here he is glisading on the decent.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Tuolumne Meadows
The Meadows and Lembert Dome. A fine place to smoke pot, throw a frizbee, kick a stupid little sack of beads around a circle, or generaly do anything but actual rock climbing.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Tuolumne Meadows is where the smarter Yosemite climbers head in the Summer months. While the Valley bakes in 90 degree plus weather, choked by tourist and lame posers in Camp 4, TM is breazy and cool with plenty of breathing space between climbers, tourist, and other climbers. Access to the Meadows from the Eastside is dependent on the opening date of Tioga pass, which varies greatly from year to year.
The author topping out on a Tuolumne Classic, Do or Fly, 5.11c.
foto byŠ Jim Sillcox
Looking up the beautiful mid section of the route, the final roof lies beyond.
foto byŠ Jim Sillcox
Jeff Sillcox concentrating on an unnamed boulder problem, V3, at Puppy Dome.
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
TM SAR team members about to cook sausages over the embers of their camp waste. Livin' large!
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
An impromptu game of craps a pitch below the summit of Cathedral Peak, which looms over TM. Come to Tuolumne and I will take all your money. What you know about seven?
foto byŠ Andrew Burgoon
Guides
The best decription, indeed the only description, of climbing in the imediate area of Mammoth is that by Marty Lewis and John Moyner. Included are Clark Canyon and the Dike Wall, along with many, many more areas.
Marty Lewis is also the author of the only guide to the Gorge, which has a new addition out this year. It looks pretty simmilar to this, only it's border is Blue. Also, one can find a quite good topo at Drtopo.com.
There are several Tuolumne guides out, including a newer version of this one, which is by far the most comprehensive.
Stay tuned for more areas, more pics and more information...
Your jealousy for our Hummers cannot be contained. You Europeans do not even crave large vehicles that are loud, without that craving you cannot understand that American music which is Rap. Don't hate us because we are beautiful.
So colorful, so nice, so well written. Thanks buddy. Actually I havent understood all your comments but I like such a little secret. For me this article is a tender touch and information that you are still alive and doing well (and all your/our friends as well).
Nice to see your name in print Jirka. Andy and his band of gypsies seem to be having too much fun on their butts in the snow. McGee still thanks you every day for the basket catch.
Hi Zep and your four legs friends. How are you doing?
You know what is the big news? We have already the plan to see some climbing spots in US (you were talking about) and of course also our friends there.
good job fool. Andy used to be this little kid that would come in to the gym in D-town with a head band. Looked like rambo. Now he's the man, And all growed up. Keep em' coming. Love to read about my friends going where I can't.
Ryan
It wasn't big surprise that your picture is on the cover page of well known climbing mag. Someone has to notice who is the best author of all english articles at czechclimbing.com. Congr.
Andy, Nice article, good pics, Do or Fly looks like a sweet line. I do miss the US, but sure am enjoying climbing all around Europe. Glad to see you aren't slackin either.
--Stephen
Registration
lezec.cz
It is now July- a stormy, unsettled month here in the Sierra Eastside. Recently we have been experiencing a heat wave, no doubt caused in large part by the fact that certain European nations won't shut up and do what they are told by the masters of the Northern Hemisphere. I suspect all the hot air coming from European politicians is the source of it all. Billowy, expansive clouds stack on top of each other above the 13,000 ft mountain crest which dominates the western view from my desert home. The Sierras are a truly year round climbing destination with more rock than one could climb in a lifetime. In order to fully appreciate what the Eastern Sierra has to offer, you have to be a diverse climber willing to accept and conform to different rock types and levels of protection: from the tightly bolted volcanic sport areas of the Owens River Gorge and Clark Canyon, to the sparse protection of the granite knob climbing in Tuolumne, to the self reliant style needed for backcountry alpine walls. What skills you use is largely dictated by the season and which venues are accesable at that time. 
