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Sierra East Side Part Dva

Something Old, Something New...



As summer  is now winding down, we are all looking forward to cooler temps and hard sends.  Indeed, some of us are already anticipating the coming bouldering season down in Bishop.  But you don't have to wait until Fall to get strong, there is a wealth of summer areas here in the Sierra Eastside.  Highlighed in this article are two starkly contrasting local bouldering areas.  While these may not be the biggest, best, nor the easiest accessed, they do showcase the diversity which is to be found in the area. 












The Bachar Boulders



The Bachars was an old stomping ground for many Valley climbers who ventured to the Eastside searching for adventure and virgin rock.  John Bachar was perhaps the most prolific, or at least the biggest name to develop the area.  The bouldering here is situated on a small cliff line with vertical to slightly ovehanging walls that suited the style of the time.  The rock is volcanic tuff, simmilar to that of the Happys, but much more compact and solid, yielding crisp edges and seams.  From 5 to 7 meters tall, and closely packed togeather, The lines here are conducive to circuit training.  The landing here are as good as it gets- flat and sandy.  The Bachars exemplify a time when crashpads didn't exist and bouldering was just good training.
 


Jeff 'zabit ten bilý muž'Sillcox confronts an unsuspecting arete.

foto by© Andrew Burgoon





Tall and proud, like it's name sake, the finger crack at the Bachar's is as good as it gets. 

foto by© Andrew Burgoon



The Bachar seam is somewhat of an area testpiece.  Standing 7 meters tall, this thin technical problem has a reputation for bouting strong boulderers.  You got to know your way around the stone to get up this one.



Check out this little ditty by Mr. Sisqo...

foto by© Andrew Burgoon





Make me wanna holla, the way they do my life... the author draws inspiration from the late Marvin Gaye to send a tricky 6B.

foto by© Jeff Sillcox





For better viewing pleasure, insert witty comment here

foto by© Andrew Burgoon






Way Lake Boulders





The new face of bouldering

foto by© Andrew Burgoon




There is a rising trend in the sport of bouldering: alpine summer bouldering areas.  These areas are no longer just places to escape the heat or to stay in shape until the 'season' comes in again; more and more boulders are getting their lazy asses off the couch and exploring the world around them.  Over the past few years the alpine talus fields of the Alps, Rockies, Pyrenees, etc have be scoured for their wealth of boulders.  These areas have become destinations in their own right- obliterating the old paradym that winter was the prime bouldering season. 



You better ax somebody.  Jeff Sillcox listens to Wu Tang as he sends an Unknown, perhaps Unnamed 7B.

foto by© Andrew Burgoon



I got a secret- this be that brand, brand new shit.  It ain't even come out yet: there is no Sharma test piece here to draw attention to it- yet.  The area is still ripe for development, yet it has already yielded lines up to 7C. There are some huge blocks with futuristic lines; you know, the type of stuff Dave Graham was already climbing two years ago.  The rock here is a metamorphosized form of granite, simmilar in some respects to it's sister bouldering area in Rocky Mountain Nat Park. Its swirled and scooped features, crisp crimps, and absurd angles lend themselves to new age techy climbing.  The advent of bouldering pads has largely facilitated the opening of such areas, Way lake is no exception: bring at least two pads. 



Andrew Stevens keeps it so so def. Fingerlock + punchy pullz = 6C+.

foto by© Andrew Burgoon





Andrew on the futuristic, 'Don't you talk dirty to yo' mamma boy.'

foto by© Andrew Burgoon





The author enjoying a classic highball in a new wave setting. 

foto by© Jeff Sillcox



Andrew Burgoon   [edit] 08:16 23.08.2006Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 great!!!22:29:26 26.08.2006
I thank you for your next story. On english version of lezec.cz are better articles than on the czech v., really ! :-))) Great !
Mikireply 
 Re: great!!!23:01:38 26.08.2006
Hi Miki,

Thanks for the complement, I try to keep it real.

Andy
 Andrewreply 

 Summertime is great19:24:48 29.08.2006
Despite the fact that this article is great and I really enjoyed it I would say that Czech version in not bad either in contrary it’s getting stronger. Andy, I have to say that your comments under photos are hilarious.
 jirkasreply 

 Nice and improving of my English08:43:28 19.09.2006
Thanks a lot for the series Andy! Not only to be in touch with you via your stories, but as wall the articles force to improve my English :)
 Standareply 

 Dear Andy,03:06:00 16.11.2006
If you are reading this comment, you already know 3 things. One, I got your letter. Two, I found your eastside story. Three, things are a little slow here at Miguels after you left. Ted and Jean took off today, and it is raining.I hope to climb a few more days before I take off myself.
p.s. Nice story and photos
Tomreply 
 Re: Dear Andy,14:13:20 16.11.2006
Dearest Tom,

have you an email condtraption? I do, but only for my bestest friends. here it is: andrewburgoon@gmail.com

Toodles,

Andy

P.S. gung ho- do it.
 Andrewreply 

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