Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové

Competitions
SP skialpy Cortina d’Ampezzo ITA (06.04)
SP Šanghaj (09.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13491
2.Trojan 12371
3.Šindel 12306
Bouldry:
1.Volf 11153
2.Stráník 10825
3.Stráník 10803
Hory:
1.Groš 7918
2.Punčochář 6708
3.Černý 6708

Results
AIX ÁDR BOULDER SESSION (09.03)
2. ČP v bouldrech Praha (02.03)
ČP v bouldrech Praha (17.02)

Diary
5523 lezců
1088252 cest
Nové přelezy:
Antiblocki 9+/10-
Microchips 10-/10
Solarium 9-
Magica 8A
Žebřík 9
Soldier Of 7b
Murieron C 7b
Balada Tri 7c+
Porcupine 9
Hungry Eye 8+/9-

Indoors
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
SAUNA - Plzeň
V 16 - Plzeň

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

The first Czech 10- long pitch route PP in Alps

Fram, Marmolada

Two Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák finalised the 17 years old project Fram on the south face of Marmolada, running between The Fish and Via Italia. They sent it in PP style on 11.-13.9.2006 and graded the pitches above the Fish Cave 8+, 10-, 9/9+, 9+ and 5 (UIAA).

The ascent was reported by official site of the Czech mountaneering union (ČHS).
Fram was the Slovaks Igor Koller and Peter Ondrejovic´s project on the south face of Marmolada, between Koller´s routes The Fish and Via Italia. They started the project in 1989 and in 1991 they reached one and half pitch above the cave which is in shape of fish. Then they opened the project for other climbers, who would like to try it in the same style. Koller did himself  some other tries too. In such a way Fram was established as a variant to the Fish Cave as well as Via Italia and many climbers climbed it in this way.
The Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák and third Czech climber Pavel Jonák finished the route already last year, but in AF style.
Becouse they climbed the lower part last year (Stoupa twice), this year they two climbed the lower part by the route Via Italia to the Fish Cave where the main problems of Fram starts.
For the climbing the pitches in a row and in PP style they needed two bivacues.
The main climbing is on the 15th– 19th pitch, what has not many simmilarity in Europe. There is as well necessery to use some gear in pitches to 8+ and gear is usefull even in the for 10- and 9+ and some times there is some „run out“, explained the ascenters on the ČHS site.

The source in Czech language with some photos and topos:
www.horosvaz.cz


Marmolada, Dolomiten, Italy
(Archive of Lezec.cz, photo by Hop)


Standa   [edit] 10:01 24.09.2006Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Photo of the day:
Pupek
Pupek
 Routes:
All routes (173651)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Love Over Gold 5.11b Owens River Gorge
Makayla 5.10a Owens River Gorge
10 E Lode 6b Siracusa
In Ogni Atomo 7a+ Siracusa
Magica 8A Zimny Dól
Latest comments:
In Ogni Atomo 7a+ Siracusa
Okurka V Humusu IXc Labské Údolí - Levý Břeh
Legendy V Českých Zemích 7A+ Panský Les
Koukolský Tvrďák 7 Koukolova Hora
Hang-on-dog Přímá Varianta IXb Labské Údolí - Pravý Břeh

 New in discussion:
Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner | Climbing Partner |

 Latest comments:
Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y |

 Hot:
Geyikbayiri (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


 Instructions:
Climbing map

 ...

 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.