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The first Czech 10- long pitch route PP in Alps

Fram, Marmolada

Two Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák finalised the 17 years old project Fram on the south face of Marmolada, running between The Fish and Via Italia. They sent it in PP style on 11.-13.9.2006 and graded the pitches above the Fish Cave 8+, 10-, 9/9+, 9+ and 5 (UIAA).

The ascent was reported by official site of the Czech mountaneering union (ČHS).
Fram was the Slovaks Igor Koller and Peter Ondrejovic´s project on the south face of Marmolada, between Koller´s routes The Fish and Via Italia. They started the project in 1989 and in 1991 they reached one and half pitch above the cave which is in shape of fish. Then they opened the project for other climbers, who would like to try it in the same style. Koller did himself  some other tries too. In such a way Fram was established as a variant to the Fish Cave as well as Via Italia and many climbers climbed it in this way.
The Czechs Václav Šatava and Dušan "Stoupa" Janák and third Czech climber Pavel Jonák finished the route already last year, but in AF style.
Becouse they climbed the lower part last year (Stoupa twice), this year they two climbed the lower part by the route Via Italia to the Fish Cave where the main problems of Fram starts.
For the climbing the pitches in a row and in PP style they needed two bivacues.
The main climbing is on the 15th– 19th pitch, what has not many simmilarity in Europe. There is as well necessery to use some gear in pitches to 8+ and gear is usefull even in the for 10- and 9+ and some times there is some „run out“, explained the ascenters on the ČHS site.

The source in Czech language with some photos and topos:
www.horosvaz.cz


Marmolada, Dolomiten, Italy
(Archive of Lezec.cz, photo by Hop)


Standa   [edit] 10:01 24.09.2006Print 

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