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New 2000 m route on Mt. Meru (6310m) in 7a, M5

Himalayas

expedice_meruUpdated topo of the acscent Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger did new 2000 metres long route on NW face of Mount Meru (6310m) in difficulty 7a, M5, 80 degrees ice in Garhwal Himalaya, Uttar-Pradesh, India.

They reached the central summit on October 6th 2006 after 13 days spent in the wall and named the route "Filkuv nebesky smich" (The Filek´s heaven laughter) in memory of Filip Silhan who began with Marek Holeček the direction on Mt. Meru in 1997 and who tragicaly died in 2001 in Alps.

NW face of Mt. Meru central 6310 m, with the upper head (is sometimes called Shark's fin) was in history the subject of many climbing attempts.

The new photo with the topo of the ascent, which Marek Holeček has sent today (October 25, 2006) from India:


The larger size of the photo:  Meru


Original photo from the web of the Czech expedition (Holecek explains today - Oct 25, that he sent first only text info about the ascent and did not update the picture, which he wanted to do after their return from India in November. The original picture was with intended line of ascent):
expedice_meru


The only Valery Babanov succeeded in October 2001 with solo ascent of the NW wall to the central summit. But he missed the summit head and he reached the top via western ridge. He succeeded in the 2nd atempt.

In the former spring attemp he tried together with Japan expedition to ascent the wall directly across the summit pillar. Bad weather caused that Babanov and Japanes could not finish the attempt.

The ascent in this direction was attemted earlier by the Czechs mentioned above. Marek Holeček and Filip Silhan tried the aim in 1997 but they did not succeed too. And now Marek Holecek with Jan Kreisinger climbed it.

The site about the miniexpedition in Czech language: www.meru06.wz.cz

The site of Valery Babanov (Russian and English): babanov.com

Lezec.cz   [edit] 07:22 18.10.2006Print 

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Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 Congratulations !19:42:13 23.10.2006
My congratulations for the Czech. team success on Meru Shark`s Fin.
Valery Babanovreply 
 Re: Congratulations !03:05:53 01.11.2006
Beutiful!!!!!
reply 

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