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Adam Ondra climbed the route Martin Krpan 9a


UPDATED by story and photos+video Adam Ondra (13-years-old, CZ) climbed the route Martin Krpan 9a in Osp, Slovenia, this Saturday November 11. Brano from Slovak web posted the info to

He writes on the web that the Czech "Wonderkind", as foreign media names him, climbed realy unbelievable.
He informs also Slovak climbers were succesful:  Juraj Repčík climbed Rodeo 8c, Martin Krasňanský Oktoberfest 8a and Lenka Mičicová Giljotina 8a.

Source: (in Slovak language)

Later the night Adam entered the climb to his profile at dipsy

It is Adam´s the first 9a.

Download video (47 MB, 6 min) - Adam Ondra climbs route Martin Krpan 9a, Mišja peč, Osp, Slovenia

UPDATE by Eva Ondrova, Adam´s mummy:

Adam began to try the route 14 days ago, after the climb of Strelovod, 8c (2 attempts). Plenty of people were in Mišja peč and hot weather, we could harldly find free while for Krpan climbing, because the route traverses across the entire cave...... Because we went to the trip with the aim this weekend and it was succesful. Alltogather on 11th attempt, but their number could be lower – fingers had frozen.

Adam explains, the first part of route from the right to the left across the routes Sonce v Očech, Pingvin to the route Marjetica is about 8b. "Then without rest is the crux with hard clipping of quickdraw and then some metres of the route Missing drink follows, this part could be 8c."

Martin Krpan 9a – is No 86

More at the topos of Mišja peč at topos section GUIDES

The same day Adam did the route Café expresso 8a+ RP  (Café for celibration) and the next day we left to the Vipavska Bela, about 60 km away from Osp (direction Nová Gorica). It can be atractive fro those who have "less work" in Osp and who like to discover... Adam onsighted the route Cerko 8b and one 8a/a+ there.

Martin Krpan 9a – Adam Ondra

photo by© Eva Ondrová

A small beta about Vipavska Bela area
The area is located close to Vipava village (15 km from highway exit Nova Gorica). You can reach the firsts rather easier sectors from the signed car parksite (about 1 km behind village Vrhpole) in 5 minuts, the other sector above the lake in 10 minuts against the streem of the brook. One more sector lies on the end of Vrhpole, the bench on the right side about 100 m - by foot.
No of routes:
6a – 6b+    60 routes
6c – 7a+    19
7b – 7c+    17
8a – 8b+    14

The sector above the lake

photo by© Eva Ondrová

The lake

photo by© Eva Ondrová

Also climber - local

photo by© Eva Ondrová

The sector behind Vrhpole

photo by© Eva Ondrová

Cerko 8b OS

photo by© Eva Ondrová   [edit] 22:04 12.11.2006Print 


Commentaries commentsNew comment 

 expected and fantastic!!!!23:23:06 12.11.2006

man, our most powerful congratulations 2 you again!!!!; you do realize, or may be not, - but you've become the best climber in the world we believe, at least you are really breaking the limits, and seems like you were born for climbing the same way as Einstein once born for his famous Relativity theory! :) keep rollin' n never stop, man!! hello from Kiev and  It's great what you've done, fantastic!!!!!!

 Nice comparison21:01:37 13.11.2006
The Theory of Relativity seems to be much more understable than Adam's finger strength. Keep it real, dude.
 True dat01:41:18 15.11.2006
yeah, what he said. You know there are some undone lines at the Red River Gorge still...
  Re: True dat16:12:13 15.11.2006
....when "action direkt"...!?
good crimp

 Now the rambla18:46:12 16.11.2006
When the rambla?

 époustouflant20:18:57 19.11.2006
Certaines expèces n'ont pas de besoin de baudrier et de corde pour grimper, pas je préfère admirer les grimpeurs humains qui sont extraordinaires.

 Adam and 9a23:26:51 19.11.2006
Big congratulation. Keep going, dude!

 Congratulatio and more14:58:01 20.11.2006
now You are effectively one of the best sport climber in the world. We, the normal climber, neededs mithos to feed our passion. In the 80's there was Edlinger, Beraulth, Gullich and others, in the 90's Legrand, Hirayama, Petit etc now You shuld became the mithos of the 2000 so do not slow down NEVER ! Continus like this break the limit, invent and open 9b and 9c , pusch the human limit (in this sport) even further.
Ciao Davide
 Re: Congratulatio and more23:00:42 20.11.2006
He could slow down and still be an icon of this sport. I wish him to stay as enthusiastic for climbing as he is.

 you rock10:45:41 16.04.2007
i was born to climbreply 

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