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Ondra's new route contender for hardest in Czech Republic

smCzech Adam Ondra (14) did the first ascent of what is probably the hardest sport route in the Czech Republic- Perla Vychodu (Pearl of east). He graded it 11-/11 UIAA (French 8c+) and  thinks it is the hardest route he has ever climbed (he already did several 9a's).

The route, he climbed during last weekend, is Adam´s project from June 2007, in the left part of Lidomorna (Holstejn, Moravian Karst, 50 km northern from Brno, east of Czech Republic). It is a 25 m overhanging route between the routes Hradni spara (8a+) and Kostej nesmrtelny (8c/c+). The new line follows the natural structure of the limestone and in the upper part it for a while joins with the named route Hradni spara, but it doesn't use the same bolts.  The classification 11-/11 UIAA (8c+) is only suggestion, the feeling is depending on the weather, which was very good last weekend. Maybe Tomas Mrazek or Martin Stranik  or somebody else will suggest different a classification...
Adam considers the route as the one of the most beautiful he has done– very endurance climbing combined with technique passages from the beginning to the end on natural holds.
The news about the event is according the article of Eva Ondrova, Adam´s mother, who published it in the Czech version of CzechClimbing.com (www.lezec.cz).

Check out Adam´s Diary - Ondra Adam (dipsy)

4945


4925


4971


Here is also a list of the hardest routes in the Moravian Karst, colected by Adam Ondra:

 100 nejtěžších cest v Krasu - xls

The Topos of Holstejn and other Moravian Karst areas (Sloup  and Rudice) are free here on czechclimbing.com behind the hyperlink GUIDES

For keen boulderers there are for downolad some guides of boulder problems in  Holstejn and Sloup (by Adam Ondra):

 Holštejn-lidomorna

 Holštejn-Vaňousovy díry

 Sloup-starý


Tufi - Brno climbing guru bouldering in the Karst

photo by © Eva Ondrova

Lezec.cz   [edit] 20:48 18.09.2007Print 

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