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Pískaři jsou zpět!
Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové

Competitions
SP skialpy Cortina d’Ampezzo ITA (06.04)
SP Šanghaj (09.04)
SP Wujiang (12.04)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13491
2.Trojan 12371
3.Šindel 12306
Bouldry:
1.Volf 11153
2.Stráník 10825
3.Stráník 10803
Hory:
1.Groš 7918
2.Punčochář 6708
3.Černý 6708

Results
AIX ÁDR BOULDER SESSION (09.03)
2. ČP v bouldrech Praha (02.03)
ČP v bouldrech Praha (17.02)

Diary
5523 lezců
1088252 cest
Nové přelezy:
Antiblocki 9+/10-
Microchips 10-/10
Solarium 9-
Magica 8A
Žebřík 9
Soldier Of 7b
Murieron C 7b
Balada Tri 7c+
Porcupine 9
Hungry Eye 8+/9-

Indoors
Stěnka na VŠE v Praze (stará budova) - Praha 3 - Žižkov
ZŠ Šafaříkova - Valašské Meziříčí
Gymnázium Česká Třebová - Česká Třebová

Shops
Ing. Jan Zavadil - PROFITSPORT - Plzeň
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poštovní - Ostrava 1
HUDYsport - Jihlava

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

The first spring trip

(Tomas Mrazek and comp. in Spain)

Finally after two years we managed to set out to on a spring climbing warming up. The decision was by all votes for Spain.

During the journey we stopped for first warm up and to split the travel a bit in St. Legere. We met there as usual (Czech elite girl climber, but almost local) Misa Drlikova with her friend Roman.

In the night the temperature was well below zero, around minus five, but during the day in the sun it was perfect.
Only the very wet routes damaged the impression.
So we spent there only two days and hurrah we went  on to warm and dry Spain.
The first choice was the area of 9as and the hard routes in an overhanging cave - St.Linya. Up to now we counted one 9a+, and further 20 routes between 9a and 8c.


St. Linya

photo by Helca Lipenska


The easier routes here are mostly shorter, more bouldery and quite rare.
The most of the hard routes and popular ones in the area were made by Dani Andrada, who lives in Lleida which is not far. This year communication with him was much much easier because he has a Slovak girlfriend Andrejka. Of course we visited Dani's climbing nest, where we discovered a pleasant flat full of climbing pictures, guides, and beta about his secret training hints.
One could say that St.Linea is now under the cannonade of all of the best climbers. Climbing there has a distinct athletic character, that means overhanging routes via stalactites and crimps, but old style moves via finger holes and often also boulder via mono finger are not missing. 
The weather was not very good, the nights were very cold again, and the mornings were dark and unpleasant. In 6 climbing days the sun shined twice. So we went for wood, set up fire in the cave, heated small stones and before trying a route we put them to chalkbag and to warm up we ran via the path.  It worked quite, but frankly no fairy tale.
We met also other Czech climbers there. Adam Ondra  with a group of climbers from Brno.
After a couple days we had hands suffering from stalactites and our bodies needed some change.
So we moved 30 km to Terradets. It is an area of 8as, the routes are for endurance, 30 metres long, and slightly or medium overhanging.


Terradets

photo by Helca Lipenska



Terradets

photo by Helca Lipenska


It is an ideal winter aera, the best is when you will  arrive by plane to Barcelona, and by train via Lleidu directly to the train station where is a Refugio, which costs 12,5 euros per person. It is about 20 minutes to the rocks by walk from here. Even here we met Czech friends, Tomas Strnad with his girlfriend Petra.
The cold weather was there again, after two weeks we had troubles with regeneration, so we moved to the refugio. It returned us some energy and we could continue in quality climbing.
But the weather was still bad- even colder, raining and windy.
The routes were wet and at the last stop in spain there was even snow. So we had to shorten the trip  by 14 nights.
In winter the trip for two weeks is ideal time, we recommend longer only if there is really warm weather.
We were satisfied overall. We warmed up well, gain motivation for the further rocks trips and we have other big plans for this year.
So we hope, that with better weather and conditions, the performance will come of itself.

Tomas climbed:
8c+ PP – 7x.
8c PP- 3x.
8c Flash – 1x.
8b OS – 4x.

Helena:
8a PP a 7c+ OS, 7c+ PP.

(Translated by CzechClimbing.team from the Czech original on www.tomasmrazek.cz, where you can find a lot of other photoos from the trip.)

The Diaries on CzechClimbing.com:

Diary - Mrazek Tomas (tmrazek)

Diary - Lipenska Helena (HelcaL.)

Helena Lipenska   [edit] 08:29 11.03.2008Print 

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