www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Prachovské skály - vyšel nový lezecký průvodce
Sport climbing in Arco - nový průvodce na skalky v Arcu
The Push: příběh Tommyho Caldwella

Competitions
AIX Ádr Boulder Session 2018 (24.02)
EP ledolezení Finsko (24.02)
BigWall Open 2018 (24.02)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13978
2.Konečný 11843
3.Pail 11700
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11475
2.Ondra 11450
3.Jungling 11000
Hory:
1.Coubal 6441
2.Šuraba 6358
3.Nikita 6157

Results
SP ledolezení Jižní Korea (09.02)
Silvestrovské Hejnice (29.12)
Mistrovství ČR rychlost (16.12)

Diary
4393 lezců
668661 cest
Nové přelezy:
Los Francé 7b+
Huyendo De 7c
La Pantone 8a
Nagano 98 7C+
Ester 8A+/8B
F3000 8A
Perný Den 8B
La Realida 7b
Red Bull 7c+
Macedonia 7c+

Indoors
Klub Dubina - Litoměřice
Boulderbar Flamendr - Kadaň
Cakle - Ústí nad Orlicí

Shops
HUDYsport - Plzeň
Mapis - mapové informační středisko - Praha 5
SAMBAR sport Kladno - Kladno - Kročehlavy

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner. 

The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1



During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.



Picture 2 and 3



The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident





Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope





Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.




Source in Czech:

www.horosvaz.cz


CzechClimbing.com   [edit] 08:00 22.04.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

Fasádní Servis
Fasádní Servis® hledá spolupracovníky do týmu pro Čechy a Moravu.


 Photo of the day:

Walk the line, 7b+
 Routes:
All routes (124775)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Nagano 98 7C+ Tisá - Modřín
Ester 8A+/8B Tisá - Modřín
T-Rex 7C Holštejn
Jen Dva Prstíčky 6C Holštejn
Little Angel 6A+ Tábor - Lužňák
Latest comments:
Peťka 7C Pečínkova Skála
Cesta Ke Světlu 6C Tisá - Modřín
Il Mistico Senza Dio 7c+ La Gola
Joe Blau 8c+ Oliana
Evil Lurks Behind... 7c+ Custonaci

 New in discussion:
Indoor climbing/bouldering in Brno | Re: Partner in Brno | Partner in Prague | Petrohrad first timer | Re: Sport Climbing in Srbsko | Sport Climbing in Srbsko | looking for climber | Partner in Brno | Looking for climbers for a student shoot | Re: drytooling in CZ |

 Latest comments:
John | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? |

 Hot:
Tom Mrazek escaped from tsunami (1)

 New in advertising:
Sperlonga Accommodation | Rock Climbing Instructor | Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing |



Cestovní pojištění objednejte na Srovnejto.cz.
Mají přímo sekci cestovní pojištění na hory.
 Instructions:
Climbing map

 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
 - NEWSFLASH: Britain's First 9b by Steve McClure
 - NEWS: Nathan Phillips flashes Font 8B
 - NEWS: Alex Honnold free solos Freerider, El Capitan
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Free Climbing on Baffin Island
 - NEWS: Requiem E8 6b by Peter Kamitses
 - NEWS: Hard boulders in South Africa for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
 - NEWS: Dead Meadow, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
 - NEWS: New Aiguille du Midi Mixed Route by Jeff Mercier & Co
 - NEWS: Orrin Coley climbs new 8B+ at Forest Rock
 - NEWS: Marcus Scotney & Carol Morgan Win Berghaus Dragon's Back Race
 - NEWS: David Fitzgerald - Voyager Sit 8B+
 - NEWS: Bronze for Emily Phillips in European Youth Cup (B)
 - Carinthian Dreams, 3rd ~8C in 11 days by Christof Rauch
 - The Big Issue E9 6c by Ali Kennedy
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.