www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Pohřbeni v oblacích
Touhy a úděl, první ženy na osmitisícovkách
Boludertopo Modřín / Sněžník

Competitions
Písecký pavouk (19.10)
SP Inzai (25.10)
Train harder contest 1 (30.10)

Ranking
Cesty:
14.Zedek 10656
15.Lank 10644
16.Reich 10641
Bouldry:
14.Lavička 9500
15.Hammerschmied 9475
16.Chvála 9431
Hory:
11.M. 3270
12.S 2746
13.Janák 2726

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3761 lezců
486950 cest
Nové přelezy:
Farina De 7b
La Džúra D 7c
La Džúra D 7c
Chupacabra 8b
La Džúra D 7c
Traumpfad 9/9+
Der Totmac 9+
Infiziert 9+
Polymorphi 10-
Totenbrett 9+

Indoors
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
SAUNA - Plzeň

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner. 

The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1



During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.



Picture 2 and 3



The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident





Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope





Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.




Source in Czech:

www.horosvaz.cz


CzechClimbing.com   [edit] 08:00 22.04.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Jezerní romance, 6+
 Routes:
All routes (98287)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Farina De Forca 7b Gorg Blau
Route 6 7a+ Gorg Blau
Fill De Puta 7a Gorg Blau
Pocket Wall 7a Gorg Blau
Ho Passam Pillo 7a C'an Nyic
Latest comments:
Debiliho 6+ Žleby
Teufelsturmkante 4 Dürnstein
Teufelsturmkante 4 Dürnstein
Teufelsturmkante 4 Dürnstein
Dachboden Stiegen 6+/7- Wachau

 New in discussion:
Cesky Raj climbing | Climbing places/partner/ropes | Re: climbing partner | climbing partner | Re: Looking for places and partners near Brno | Re: Climbing partner in Brno | climbing partner | Easy climbing site | Looking for places and partners near Brno | Re: Lezenie ČR |

 Latest comments:
John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - Freerider flashed by Pete Whittaker
 - FRI NIGHT VID - Mina-Leslie Wujastyk Interview
 - VIDEO: Adam Ondra - Rock and Plastic
 - INTERVIEW: Iain Miller, Sea Stack Ascensionist Extraordinaire
 - NEWSFLASH: Trekking Deaths in Nepal
 - The Big Swanage Double
 - Mecca Extension 8c for Mina-Leslie Wujastyk
 - 9a and 8c+ by Angie Eiter
 - A New Look for UKClimbing.com
 - Women's Climbing Symposium 2014: Report
 - VIDEO: Ghisolfi vs Tetto di Sarre
 - Viaje de Los Locos, 8b+ MP, by Sasha & Edu
 - FRI NIGHT VID - Northumberland Calling
 - INTERVIEW: Bullock and Sim on Mt Alberta North Face
 - INTERVIEW: Adam Ondra on and about Czech sandstone
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.