www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Poprava pod Nanga Parbatom
Jiří Taxis Svoboda - Paměti
Sbohem sedmikrásky

Competitions
Aprílový pohár (04.04)
2. ČP (11.04)
BRUTAL EXTREAM ELASTIC PARTY (18.04)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13557
2."Fido" 11694
3.Jungling 11454
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11275
2.Stráník 10675
3.Jungling 10625
Hory:
1.Coubal 7732
2.Harašta 6270
3.Skopec 5870

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3831 lezců
502848 cest
Nové přelezy:
Supertiri 8a
Ganga O Ga 7c+
AC/DC 7c
Avatar 7c
Il Viziett 7c
Rubagotti 7c
Beach Boys 7b
Gameboy Pl 8a
Bonsai 7c
Abissi 7c

Indoors
Stěna Luh - ZŠ Vsetín Luh 1544 - Vsetín
Pankrác, SPŠ stavební Josefa Gočára - Praha 4
Lezecké centrum Ruzyně - Praha 6

Shops
bart´s port - Praha 2
HUDYsport - Praha 5
HUDYsport - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner. 

The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1



During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.



Picture 2 and 3



The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident





Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope





Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.




Source in Czech:

www.horosvaz.cz


CzechClimbing.com   [edit] 08:00 22.04.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Ideální aprílová cesta, náročné klíčové místo, které je třeba přelézt v zavěšení za špičky nohou.
Upside down, 8
 Routes:
All routes (100639)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Jáchyme,hoď Ho Do Stroje! 7B+ Josefovské Údolí
Hoď Ho Do Stroje 7B Josefovské Údolí
Gun Slinger 5.11d The Obed
Double Feature 5.10c The Obed
Best Seat In The House 5.9 The Obed
Latest comments:
Hastrošova Hrana 6- Josefovské Údolí
Brot De Fonoll 8a Siurana
Brot De Fonoll 8a Siurana
Rakeák 7A Vyhlídková Skála
Pírsing 7- Lom V Doubí

 New in discussion:
Climbing friends for may | Re: Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for new friends! | Climbing in Czech Republic | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for a long lost friend! | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Bouldering Prague Area |

 Latest comments:
John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - New Longest UK Sport Route: What's in a Name?
 - Half Weight-Half Price Products from Alpkit
 - The In Pinn Loses its Top Block - And Munro Status
 - VIDEO: Dave Macleod: Project Fear
 - New Arbroath E8: Bolts or No Bolts?
 - Major New Article Format for UKC for 2015
 - Multiple ascents by Megos in Australia
 - Onsight spree by Iker Pou
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Emily Harrington - Training for Your Goals
 - Raphael Slawinski to attempt Everest NE Face First Ascent
 - VIDEO: Reinhold Messner talks Adventure
 - Alex Megos repeats Flat mountain, 9a/+
 - New Corsica Multipitch for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
 - INTERVIEW: Griffin Whiteside, an American boulderer in Europe
 - Bracey and Helliker: New Route on East Face of Mt Maudit
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.