www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Nejkrásnější cesty na písku
Koniec Pavúkov v Tatrách
Himálaj a Karakorum - Československé a České prvovýstupy

Competitions
Autocolor BOULDER GAMES LIGA (29.04)
Sambar Kids Cup (30.04)
SP Chongqing 2016 (30.04)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13519
2."Fido" 11800
3.Konečný 11637
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11425
2.Ondra 11409
3.Stráník 10828
Hory:
1.Skopec 7616
2.Coubal 7532
3.Nikita 7122

Results
SP Kazo 2016 (23.04)
Evropský pohár mládeže (16.04)
Jeseník Cup (16.04)

Diary
4063 lezců
567499 cest
Nové přelezy:
Kodiac 10-/10
Leftfield 9+/10-
Stalingrad 9+/10-
Undo 8+/9-
Tour De Fr 9
Jackie Cha 8A+
Naplivu Na 7C
Tao 9+
Adorácia 10
Omerta 8A+

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeň
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
LANEX eshop - Bolatice

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Rope cut completely in worn carabiner

Watch out!!!

The safety commission of the Czech Mountaineering Union recently reported an incident which involved a falling climbers rope being cut completely over the edge of a well worn carabiner. 

The case happened recently in one of the indoor climbing walls in Prague and thankfully nobody was injured because the fall was just above the first quickdraw and the falling climber landed OK.
The rope was reported as a brand new (two weeks old)from a well known manufacturer.
After the case the report was published and the climbing public was warned of the risk.
The wear on the carabiner was probably because the intensity of the rope friction there is enormous. Logic says that it could impact the last carabiner on the route (which does not catch falls), and according to this new incident the first one as well- where the fall factor is the most critical.

Picture 1



During lowering the rope enters the carabiner in a specific angle and at the upper edge of the carabiner the rope further sharpens the body of the carabiner to a flat surface and a sharp edge is formed: Picture 2 below in the text.

The description of the incident: The fall of the first climber from the first go on protection, the rope was cut through, the climber fell to the ground, luckily without any injury. The length of the fall was 1,6 m. The fall factor 0,57.
The mass of the falling climber was 80 kg. Belayed statically. The rope was single dynamic 11 mm diameter.



Picture 2 and 3



The carabiner long term used on the position of the route first protection.

Picture 4 a 5
The rope cut off in the incident





Picture 6 a 7
Detail of the cut rope





Conclusion: Climbing wall providers should regularly check the carabiners and those showing significant wear in the rope basket should be replaced by new ones. Higher attention should be placed on the first ones on a route or the others which are the first in the direction of the rope (e.g. under overhangs, in the beginning or end of traverses etc.).
In case the visitor of the climbing wall would find any grooved carabiner, he/she should notice the climbing wall provider.




Source in Czech:

www.horosvaz.cz


CzechClimbing.com   [edit] 08:00 22.04.2008Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Rocket Pie, 7
 Routes:
All routes (109354)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Její Velesyslosti 6 Na Hůrkách
Každý Ráno 8 Na Hůrkách
JP: Dál A Vejš 5+ Na Hůrkách
Le Bijou 5b Fontainebleau
La Danse Du Sumo 5b Fontainebleau
Latest comments:
Chamonix 88 6- Bořeň
Koutem 7+ Skály V Údolí Říčky
Špekmen 8A Vyhlídková Skála
Špekmen 8A Vyhlídková Skála
Poklad Nibelungů 7C Bor

 New in discussion:
Climbing partner Prague | drytooling in CZ | Re: Climbing in Petrohrad | Climbing in Petrohrad | Looking for new friends, travel and sport buddies | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for climbing partner in Brno | Mr. | Ostry Stit - lost Cam Bd C3 yellow (motykova cesta) |

 Latest comments:
Iwc Cousteau Divers mirror 1:1 replica Watch Working Chronograph | cheap Classic Air Force 1 25th Low Men Shoes Yellow White on... | Nike Air Max, Mens Nike Air Max 90 | John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? |

 Hot:
Festak 2011 (1)
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)
Lynn Hill in Prague (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - Papichulo, 9a+, by Said Belhaj
 - Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan
 - New 12-Skyhook E9 by James McHaffie: House of Talons
 - VIDEO: The Fine line
 - The Quarryman Groove by Caroline Ciavaldini
 - Alex Megos hits Sweden
 - Live: Round 2 of IFSC Boulder World Cup - Sunday 24th April
 - VIDEO: Jerry's cellar back in the day
 - VIDEO: From shallow waters to Riverbed, ~8B+, by Dave MacLeod
 - 1 Million Visits for UKC in March 2016
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Wujastyk and Whittaker in Waterval Boven, South Africa
 - The Quarryman E8 7a for James Pearson
 - VIDEO: 'Sheffield Climbers' - Archive Footage
 - VIDEO: Anak Verhoeven climbs Ma belle ma muse, 8c+/9a, and le Bronx, 8c+
 - IFSC Boulder World Cup Meiringen: Report
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.