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Nová kniha Medaile na chvíli o olympijském příběhu Adama Ondry
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Triple North Walls

2 Czechs try 3 FAs in Asian high mountains

„Triple North Walls“ is the attempt to climb three elegant first ascents in different high mountain areas in Asia: in the Nepalese Himalayas, Pakistani Karakorum and Afghan Vachan on three beautiful mountains where have not been more than ten ascents up to now.



We would like to climb in two members team in alpine style and survive in all three faces.

The first one:               
mountain: Kapura 6544 m  - NW face 2000 m of elevation                               
mountains: Karakorum – Charakusa Glacier 
Country: Pakistan



Departure: June 15, return August 1
The untouched north-west face of Kapura. It is the giant growing up from the glacier up to 2 km hight. A small comparison: the top of the Eiger (3970m) is in the same altitude that we will begin our climbing on Kapura.

The Second one:
mountain: Kohe Uparisina 6130 m  -  N face 1500 m of elevation
mountains: Vachan – Ishmurch valley
country: Afghanistan



Departure August 27, then October 4 overflight to Nepal
40 years ago in 1965-68 the history of Czechoslovak high altitude mountaineering had already begun to be written there. So we would like to continue in this excellent performance of the guys, who did the first ascent to the summit many years ago. The unclimbed impressive vertical line goes via the central pillar and divides the north face for two parts and is 1500 m high. The enjoyment will start for sure already during the transport from Kabul to the Vachan corridor via war torn Afghanistan.

The Third one:
mountain: Talung 7349 m  - NW pillar 1800 m elevation 
mountains: East Himalaya - area of Kangchendzönga
Country: Nepal



October 5 arrival from Afghanistan, departure on November 5.
The superb central arete of Talung is the clear suggested direction for climbing up. Our first attempt with Tomas Rinn  in 2004 finished with my frozen feet. No way than to rappel down and flee to the valley. It is quite a distant place where you have to go for „x“ days across the forests with army of leeches and the their human counterparts in the form of Maoists. So perhaps this year we will have better luck.

Underlined conclusion: Jun 15 the shot sounds start the action. So see you for now...


                  Mara Holecek  and  Honza Doudlebsky 


Profiles:
                 
Marek Holecek *1974   

- member of the Czech representative team since 1997
- 5x received awards of the Czech ascent of year and 2x honorary appreciation from the Czech Mountaineering Union
- participated in 15 expeditions to Asian and South American mountains where he did many first ascents.

Jan Doudlebsky *1978
- member of the Czech representative team since 2000     
- 3x received awards of the Czech ascent of year and 3x honorary appreciation from the Czech Mountaineering Union
- participated in 6 expeditions to Asian mountains and did several first ascents 

             
                                  Partners of the action:
 

www.devold.cz
     




www.northtrappers.cz
   
                             

 

www.lanex.cz
   


www.sirjoseph.cz
     


www.horosvaz.cz

           
   

www.suunto.cz
     

     

www.raveltik.cz
         


   

www.kouba.cz
   

                               

www.panasonic.cz
   

   

www.bcamp.cz
     


www.alpin-lt.cz Opava
       


www.shockenergi.cz





 

www.lezeckarevue.cz
 


www.expeditions.cz



www.ceskatelevize.cz



www.czechclimbing.com






                                   


Mara Holecek   [edit] 20:05 06.06.2008Print 

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