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Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica, Croatia

Jubilee 10th annual - Mammut Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica, Croatia - May 1st-3rd, 2009. There were 13 couples of men and 5 couples of women competing.

Naturayl the participation from Croatia was in majority. Men have the rout 160 meters high in 6c+, women 110 high in 6a+. The competition was in time in what the top is reached. The routes are several years the same so the locals have a bit advantage. The system of climbing was classical that means the 1st in the climbing couple reaches the belay position of the pitch, takes up the second, and the second starts the next pitch etc. The parallel climbing or not clipping of all bolts was not allowed.







The locals were interested mostly in overcomming of the record from 2005 by Marek Lukic – Andrej Grmovsek, the time: 22 minutes and 58 seconds. The strong and unpredictable duo Dani Andrada a Jerome de Boeck (ES/BE) were big competitors in the struggle for the first position. Speed World Champion (1997) Dani puts maximally three quickdraws in one pitch, sometimes he jumped by both hands in pace, but it was not enought for the first place. The winners were in the new route record 21:23: Igor Corko a Ljubomir Sakac (HR).






The women route were governed by Slovenian in time under twenty minutes: 19:56 Maja Apat—Nastja Davidova (SI). I enjoyed there the premier in multipitch climbing. Enjoyment  of the nice climbing movement in the hight was spoiled by the speed. And according to that our duo of snails, as someones nicknamed us, we placed. The best Croatien women climber in lead Tamara Zulim and I prefer quality and higher difficulty in front of speed.







Anyway the climbing festival, that prepared also for children the 2nd annual of Rock Pillars – Ocun Kid Speed – PAKLENICA 2009, was for me interesting meeting with lot of climbers and also wonderful Paklenica, the paradise of multipitches and mostly easier routes.



Results:
Men:
1. 21:23 Igor Corko—Ljubomir Sakac (HR)
2. 29:40 Dani Andrada—Jerome de Boeck (EN/BE)
3. 29:47 Bostjan Potočnik—Gorazd Hren (SI)
4. 32:01 Perica Levatic—Jurica Levatic (HR)
5. 34:16 Marko Marasovic—David Koljnrekaj (HR)
6. 34:51 Boris Cujic— Ivica Matkovic (HR)
7. 36:17 Matjaz Dusic—Marko Beber (SI)
8. 37:38 Demir Baric—Emil Mucko (HR)
9. 41:26 Ivan Pevec—Kresimir Moric (HR)
Women
1. 19:56 Maja Apat—Nastja Davidova (SI)
2. 20:48 Annamaria Zollinger—Anne-Aylin Sigg (CH)
3. 25:21 Iva Bozic—Maja Bozic (HR)
4. 28:10 Maja Vukas—Jelena Dujakovic (HR)
5. 30:26 Helena Lipenska—Tamara Zulim (CZ/HR)

(Photos: Marek Klima, RockPillars)

Helena Lipenska   [edit] 09:12 13.05.2009Print 

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