Together with my friend Thomas Schrott, I started in the beginning of July already to the Cime Grande.

Our project was to climb the Camilotto-Pellisier Route. A route which was first ascented in the year 1968 in techno climbing style. The north face of Cime Grande is 500m long. The hardest part of the route is the beginning 6 always very steep pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8a+, 7c+/8a, 7a, 8a+. The cux pitch is the last one.


In Dolomites
photo by © Hansi Heckmair



After these pitches 6 more alpine pitches in the grade 5a to 6c+ are following. And then you come on the Dibona-Pillar which brings you via grade 3 and 4 terrain to the summit.


Thomas and Michi
photo by © Hansi Heckmair



Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route
photo by © Hansi Heckmair


The first time climbing in the route in the beginning of July was just perfect, I was nearly able to send already all pitches free, even the last pitch, the crux pitch I was able to send in flash. But due to bad weather we had to go home for another 3 weeks and waiting every day for better weather. But then the weather changed good. On the 2nd August I was standing with my partner Thomas under the first pitch of Camilotto-Pellisier. It was 8.30 o’clock and really really cold. But after warming up a little bit I started climbing and it felt very easy. And the same happened with the others. Pitch 2, 3, 4, 5 and I was standing under the roof 200m over the ground.


Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route
photo by © Hansi Heckmair


Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route
photo by © Hansi Heckmair

I knew now I just have to be a little bit brave and concentrated and I’ll have it. And I did it like that, doing the moves as I knew them and I came to the chaine, crying and laughing. The further pitches were little bit like a winning parade, running up these pitches with perfect rock.


On the summit
photo by © Hansi Heckmair


Tre Cime - Cime Grande
photo by © Hansi Heckmair

At 15.30 o’clock we were at the summit very happy! It was again a dream which I could fullfill myself this year. After climbing Eiger North Face in 5h10min in Winter I said: “I’ll relaxe” after sending a mixed route in Grade M12+ in Flash I said: “I’ll relaxe” after sending a 8c/8c+ route in climbing garden I said: “I’ll relaxe” but I never did, I was training for the next project. But now I will!!! There is just one disciplin missing: Bouldering…but for that I’m too weak.

Source:
Michi's website MichiWohlleben.de