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Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
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Competitions
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
SP boulder Bern (SUI) (16.06)
SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12747
2.Votoček 12706
3.Trojan 12234
Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Konečný 11275
3.Novák 10925
Hory:
1.Groš 7783
2.Rojko 7592
3.Skopec 7324

Results
Melloblocco (07.05)
ČP v lezení na obtížnost Praha (01.05)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Wujiang (CHN) (25.04)

Diary
5735 lezců
1157841 cest
Nové přelezy:
Labutí Pís 9+/10-
Vodní Svět Xb
Waldemar M 7C
Opiju Tě R 7C
Waldemar M 7C
Chci Srát 9+
Lady Red P 7C
Oscurita 7C
Red Whales 7b
Rollmobs 9

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Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Boulder Bar - Praha 7

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Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Masarykova - Brno
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno

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REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
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INZERCE:
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IT:
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Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba




Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

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