www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Frankenjura průvodce
Nejkrásnější cesty na písku
Koniec Pavúkov v Tatrách

Competitions
EYC bouldering L Argentiere (FRA) (26.07)
Evropské mistrovství mládeže (04.08)
4. kolo Rock Point Český pohár v boulderingu 2016 (07.08)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13666
2.Konečný 11800
3."Fido" 11800
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11450
2.Ondra 11153
3.Stráník 10878
Hory:
1.Coubal 7463
2.Šuraba 7157
3.Nikita 6886

Results
SP Briancon 2016 (22.07)
SP Villars 2016 (15.07)
SP Chamonix 2016 (11.07)

Diary
4115 lezců
584274 cest
Nové přelezy:
Vlaštovka 9-
Finger In 9
Super Fina 9a
Hyper Fina 9a+
Daily Terr 9-
Black Labe 11
Ab Durch D 9/9+
Gimmel Exp 8c+
Idi Amin 9/9+
Götterhämm 9+

Indoors
Stěna GJW Prostějov - Prostějov
Boulder Klub Pentagon - Tábor
gymnázium Orlová - Orlová-Lutyně

Shops
HUDYsport - Praha 2
Horolezecké vybavení - VK-SHOP.CZ - Plzeň
Rock Point Vaňkovka - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


Holštejn 7, 679 13 Holštejn, Czech Republic


Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Rock Masters 2015
 Routes:
All routes (111591)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Merveille 7a Mont-Dauphin Fort
Wishbone Ash 6c Mont-Dauphin Fort
Super Finale 9a Rawyl
Hyper Finale 9a+ Rawyl
Black Label 11 Frankenjura
Latest comments:
Svátek Světla IXc Labák - Levý Břeh
Vlaštovka 9- Štramberk
Bravo Mozart 7+ Zlomisková Dolina
Idi Amin 9/9+ Frankenjura
Španělská Bota 6B Ludvíkov

 New in discussion:
Tiffany Rings : Tiffany Outlet Online | Looking for a climbing partner(s) in Cesky raj during July 26~29 | Climbing on Gozo | Bouldering Petrohrad May | Climbing partner Prague | drytooling in CZ | Re: Climbing in Petrohrad | Climbing in Petrohrad | Looking for new friends, travel and sport buddies | Moving to Ceske Budejovice |

 Latest comments:
Tiffany & Co Butterfly and Flower Necklace [93b8] - $75.00 : | Prada Glasses - Prada Handbags 2013 Online-Prada Bags Outlet | AAA Replica Cool Rolex Air King Oyster Perpetual Automatic With | Tiffany & Co 1837 Interlocking Circles Bangle In Sterling Si | Tiffany & Co Atlas Pendants Set [f365] - $110.00 : cheap tif | Home, Tag Heuer | Replica Rolex Sports Models Watches, Luxury Rolex Sports Models | 2013 Replica Prada Medium Patent Leather Two Sakura,Prada Bags 2 | Tiffany Money Clips : Tiffany and co outlet, Tiffany jewelry out | Highline for females |

 Hot:
Festak 2011 (2)
PADani - open air bouldering competiton in Petrohrad, CZE (2)
Czech mountaineer and politician Pavel Bem on K2 (2)
Lynn Hill in Prague (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - BMC to be Re-named 'Climb Britain'
 - IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon: Report
 - Monkey wedding, ~8C, by Vadim Timonov
 - FRIDAY NIGHT VID: Moose's Tooth - Dani Arnold and David Lama in Alaska
 - Divine providence by Nina Caprez
 - VIDEO: Alex Honnold's Welsh Slate Experience
 - Divided Britain, E7 6c: New Route on Gogarth by James McHaffie
 - IFSC Lead World Cup Villars: Report
 - Jack Geldard Steps Down as UKC Chief Editor
 - Seb Bouin repeats Thor's Hammer, ~9a?
 - Third Ascent of The Keswickian E8 7a for Dave MacLeod
 - FRIDAY NIGHT VID: Pinnacle Club/BMC Women's International Climbing Meet 2016
 - IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix: Report
 - Tom Randall Climbs Franco Cookson's Roof Project: Infusoria E7 6b
 - PODCAST: Alex Megos
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.