www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Pohřbeni v oblacích
Touhy a úděl, první ženy na osmitisícovkách
Boludertopo Modřín / Sněžník

Competitions
Rock Empire Boulder cup (29.11)
Lokalblok Bouldering Session X (02.12)
Pražský opičák (02.12)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13732
2."Fido" 11644
3.Jungling 11466
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11250
2.Stráník 10550
3.Jungling 10550
Hory:
1.Coubal 7482
2.Harašta 6270
3.Skopec 5870

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3788 lezců
493145 cest
Nové přelezy:
UFO 7C+
Malá 11 9/9+
Viagra Coc 8+/9-
Hořký Měsí 9+
Ajo En Vag 7C
Ajo En Vag 7C
Hanibal 10-
Toros 8+/9-
Ukrajinský 7C
Maligna 7c+

Indoors
Areál sportu - Bystřice nad Pernštejnem
Eliass - Ostrava
Gymnázium M. Koperníka - Bílovec

Shops
Rock Point Hradec Králové - Hradec Králové
Keen Concept Store - Futurum Ostrava - Ostrava 1
bart´s port - Praha 2

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


Holštejn 7, 679 13 Holštejn, Czech Republic


Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Pohled na Tukuche peak a Dhaulagiti I ze sedla 5 500 m
Tukuche peak
 Routes:
All routes (99239)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Rocket Pie 7 Geyikbayiri
Predators 10 Geyikbayiri
Ihlamur L2 9- Geyikbayiri
Ihlamur L1 6 Geyikbayiri
Kap Horn 9 Geyikbayiri
Latest comments:
Odyssea 6 Kotýz
El Páis De La Pandereta 6a Siurana
El Páis De La Pandereta 6a Siurana
Kozla Starýho 4 Žleby
Inženýr Krkovička 7+ Žleby

 New in discussion:
Looking for a long lost friend! | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Bouldering Prague Area | shoes left | Cesky Raj climbing | Climbing places/partner/ropes | Re: climbing partner | climbing partner | Re: Looking for places and partners near Brno |

 Latest comments:
John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - Kendal Mountain Festival 2014 Report
 - VIDEO: K6 West - 2014 Piolets d'Or Winner
 - UKC User John Colton has Alpine Art Exhibition in Courmayeur
 - The Big Flash 2014
 - Scottish Schools Climbing Competition 2014/15
 - Redemption: Hot Aches Productions Interview
 - Webb repeats Defying Gravity, ~8C
 - VIDEO: Livesey Light: Profile of a Mountain Photographer
 - Dawn wall project: It goes!
 - NEWSFLASH: Caldwell Redpoints Hardest Pitch on Dawn Wall
 - Scottish Students Climbing Festival 2014/15
 - Pete Whittaker: Three Free Big Walls in Yosemite
 - Junior Irish Lead Climbing Championships 2014 - Report
 - VIDEO: Family Man, ~8c trad, by Trotter
 - IFSC World Cup Kranj 2014: Report
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.