www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Jiří Taxis Svoboda - Paměti
SBOHEM SEDMIKRÁSKY
Padající hvězda

Competitions
HUDY bouldr cup (28.02)
hrušovanský šejkr (28.02)
Studentské závody (05.03)

Ranking
Cesty:
45.Lachman 9832
46.Ulmonová 9822
47.Winter 9814
Bouldry:
45.Štumpolt 8356
46.R 8353
47.Čermák 8303
Hory:
31.Svojtka 1591
32.Otto 1591
33.Čermák 1344

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3817 lezců
498772 cest
Nové přelezy:
EPO 7C+
De Puta Ma 7C
Pyrrhovo V 7B+
Proces 7C+
Tříslovina 7C+
Na Hranici 9
Nevím 8a+
Gicht 7C
Rezavý Špo 9/9+
Rubble 7c

Indoors
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
SAUNA - Plzeň
Boulder Bar - Praha 7

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
LANEX eshop - Bolatice
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Adam Ondra

Terranova, 8C+

smallAdam Ondra who is in the lead of both rankings (difficulty and boulder), sent before the weekend his longterm project in Moravian Karst.

Adam has not given a name yet but he believes that its hardest boulder he did and therefore it attacks the 8C+ level.

Now we've got an update:

Adam's new master piece has the name Terranova and is graded at 8C+ !.

Adam said: "This boulder is foremost about it's difficulty. I would like to emphasize that it is not the most beautiful, exposed line in the world. It does not go on top of the stone but it is only a traverse at the beginning of the wall. I always thought that it won't be possible.
I tried it for the first time last year and I understood  the moves. This year I have devoted to it the whole autumn. Boulder has about 12 hard moves and than 5 moves already easier finish.


01

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


It's traverse, low to the ground. The first three steps are going pretty hard (like 7C+), but the hardest is to breathe and relax properly and not to climb like a diver. Another four steps are desperately difficult, I think it could be about 8B. Must be able to place a bad heel, squeeze slippery grip and move feet three times while holding the slippery grip. Three another moves, which are only about 7B, lead to last two key moves which could be 8A+. Then 7B easier finish.
As for clasification:
Overall, I was trining this boulder eleven days and it is certainly my hardest boulders, I have ever done. I also think of it is quite specific and it fits to my style.
I garaded it as a 8C+.


About the name:

I did not want to give a complicated Czech name, which no one would remember, I also did not want English name, so I chose a compromise. So the name is Terranova.



02

Terranova, 8C+

photo by © Vojta Vrzba


Holštejn 7, 679 13 Holštejn, Czech Republic


Translated by

Jirka Sika   [edit] 09:40 14.11.2011Print 

Reklama:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Dolný Kežmarský Strážnik
 Routes:
All routes (100173)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Los 5 Magnificos 7a+ El Chorro
Proiecto Mireia 7a El Chorro
Clever Climb Adventures 6c El Chorro
La Esperanza El Lo Último... 6b El Chorro
Sportbilly 6c El Chorro
Latest comments:
Kotzwand VIIa Schrammsteine
Protlak 6A Holštejn
Protlak 6A Holštejn
Nitti 5+ El Chorro
Kotzwand VIIa Schrammsteine

 New in discussion:
Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for new friends! | Climbing in Czech Republic | Climbing in Czech Republic | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for a long lost friend! | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Bouldering Prague Area | shoes left |

 Latest comments:
John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - FRI NIGHT VID - Hansjörg Auer: The Music of Chance
 - Blokfest Round 4 Report
 - VIDEO: Of the rock I asked for the moon
 - Patagonia - The Corkscrew soloed, Torre Traverse and more...
 - 8C and 8B+ in a day for Ned Feehally
 - Dumbarton Rock Tourism Workshops Announced
 - Lakes Bouldering Round-up
 - The Swarm, ~8B/+, in one session by Puccio
 - INTERVIEW: Ines Papert on The Hurting XI 11
 - Paddy Buckley Round - New Winter Record
 - Ubik assis, ~8B, flash by Niccolň Ceria
 - Serenata, ~8C, by Mike Adams
 - La Force du destin, ~8B+, by Nalle Hukkataival
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Barre des Écrins, French Alps
 - Sixteen 8's in Six Days for Ellis Butler-Barker
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.