We received a message about new route in Buttermilks called Mandala Direct.

As everybody knows Mandala, which is probably one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world and is situated in Buttermilks, Bishop CA and was first climbed by Chris Sharma in early 2000.

The problem climbs a steep prow on a large granite boulder and was considered a cool project for many years already before Chris Shatma did it.


Although Chris did not rate it was thought by many to be hard V14. Over time the grading was settled at soft V12/8A+ (Since the first ascent, several holds have broken including one of the crux holds.)

It was given a sit-start by Tony Lamiche  in 2002. The sit-start, got the name  The Mandalion  is about V14/8B+.

Something was still missing. Since the direction of original Mandala was slightly to the left Jeff Sillcox tried to add a straight up. Here you can see some picture from the ascent. Recently Paul Robinson added a sitstart to it and made it even harder.

Jeff called it Mandala Direct and thinks that it’s hard V12.



Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Jeff and Mandala Direct, V12
foto by ©


Andy (support) and Jeff  Red Rocks
foto by © JirkaS