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Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové
Slovinsko
Frankenjura Band 1 a Band 2

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SP Chamonix (08.07)
SP Briancon (22.07)
MS v lezení mládeže (22.08)

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Cesty:
1.Ondra 13822
2.Trojan 12100
3.Šindel 11806
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11578
2.Konečný 11550
3.Volf 11253
Hory:
1.Skopec 8028
2.Groš 7864
3.Mrklovský 7067

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SP Villars (01.07)
SP Innsbruck (22.06)
SP Brixen (10.06)

Diary
5277 lezců
974911 cest
Nové přelezy:
Epita 9
Yetisports 9-
Lamač Dívč 8A+
Snatch 9
Krátká Kře 9+
Lezu Lezu Xb
Hogo Fogo 11
Chameleon 9+/10-
Menší Post 9
Fatamorgan 9

Indoors
Stěna GJW Prostějov - Prostějov
Squash Arena Liberec - Liberec
Makak LBC - zrušena - Liberec

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HUDYsport - Ostrava
HUDYsport - Liberec
Luna Rossa - lezecké chyty a stěny - Děčín

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REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Description of Climbing Areas

Beta from Czech

Description of some rock areas we judged as the nicest

Moravský kras

The Moravia's most popular and largest limestone crag with long chapter written in the book of climbing history. It is spread on the north of the Brno city. There are many different parts, each having a character of its own. There are also campsites near the crag. Rocks are definitely worth visit, namely in summer. Directions: 16 km N of Brno city and 270 km east of Prague. Guidebooks: Relatively new with excellent pictures and clear descriptions. Climate: Mild, a lot of crags are south faced walls, some of them are in forests. Months: except winter Other: There are a famous caves and depth Macocha Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Moravsky kras

Srbsko

A very nice good crag is near the lazy river Berounka with many different parts, each having a character of its own. One of the most popular and largest limestone crag in Czech. Many hard routes and also routes for beginners. Definitely worth visit. There is also a campsite near the crag. Directions: 10 km N of Beroun and 28 km southeast of Prague. From the Beroun city take the route towards Svaty Jan Pod Skalou and than to Srbsko. Crag is already seen from the village. Guidebooks: Relatively new with excellent pictures and clear descriptions. Climate: mild could be hot in summer, mainly south faced walls Months: except winter Others: not far from the famous king´s castle Karlstein Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Cesky kras

Roviste

A very nice and popular granit crag is situated on the bank of the artificial lake of Slapy on the line between towns Pribram and Sedlcany. There are many recently developed different sectors (10 or so), each having a character of its own. Is definitely worth visit. There is also a nice campsite near the crag with possibility of swimming in a beautiful small and hidden quarry-lake. Guidebooks: Relatively new with excellent pictures and clear descriptions. Directions: 15 km E of Pribram and 10 km west of Sedlcany. Crag is across the river, opposite of village Velka. Climate: Milde, open south faced walls receive mainly afternoon sun Months: except winter Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Vltavska zula

Svatoske skaly

One of the best area in the west part of the country, very scenic with a lots of scope in the right central section (sector Zamek) and in the left sector (Nevesta se Zenichem). There are more than 100 routes in general and on the Zamek wall there must be more than 50 routes. The area is situated on the left bank of the river Ohre 5 km from Karlovy Vary city. Karlovy Vary is the oldest of the Bohemian spas, and probably the second most popular tourist city in the Czech Republic, after Prague. There are 12 hot springs containing 40 chemical elements that are used to medically treat diseases of the digestive tract and metabolic disorders, so whether you have diarrhea or constipation, this is the place to come. The river Ohre is very scenic and attractive place mainly in summer when it is very popular among canoeing keen people. Guidebooks: Relatively new with excellent pictures and clear descriptions. Directions: 5 km W of Karlovy Vary spa town. Crag is across the river, opposite of settlement. Climate: Mild, south faced walls undercover off trees. Months: except winter Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Skaly v udoli Ohre

Perstejn

A quite good crag with routes up to 30m and very solid rock. There are about 100 interesting routes in the picturesque river valley of the river Ohre that winds between wooded hills. Very scenic and attractive mainly in summer. Only a few hard routes. Guidebooks: Directions: 25 km NE of Karlovy Vary spa direction to Ostrov nad Ohri and from that to follow the river Ohre and just in the village Perstejn. Climate: Mild, crag is on the sun Months: Spring, summer and fall climbing Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Skaly v udoli Ohre

Boren

The area contains the best climbing at Most area and climbing here has the very long tradition. The dominant Boren hill can be viewed comfortably from far away as a very steep Devils tower shaped tower. Consists of a fine wall and face climbing from 20 up to 140m ( on the north) in beautiful nature. (restricted area). The most popular part is small part of the Boren hill on the south with more than 40 well-equipped routes. Excellent for a couple days long climbing trip for experienced climbers. Guidebooks: Brand new with excellent pictures and clear descriptions, many areas. Directions: Between towns Most and Bilina, which is the closest town. (south west from the Bilina town 3 km) Climate: Could be windy (higher altitude) and north part has tough climate and offer excellent practice area for winter climbing in mountains. Months: The whole year round, winter south walls

Prilepy

Pretty but small area with less than 20 routes and 30 boulders around. Excellent for one day climbing for experienced climbers. Directions: South west from the Rakovnik town above village Prilepy. Climate: Mild and could be windy, orientation to south and open Months: Except winter and rainy days

Petrohrad (Petrohrad rocks)

The best bouldering area in our country is still under promising development and has a huge potential for new routes. This brand new area is situated 50 km northwest from Plzen city and 8O km west from Prague. Actually there are many sub - areas within this major area with thousand routes and with big potential with respect to making new directions. All of these locations are situated in scenic natural surroundings, in forests and in nice hilly landscape. There are some other secularities there. Firstly there is so huge development that at this moment there are 1400 boulders and every week there are couple news, so even locals can't manage to describe everything. There is a lack of overview map, there. If you create a new line please try to document it and send it to me, we are eagerly looking for them. And we will be really gratitude if you do so. (In village Petrohrad is a cute pub you can eat and drink very good beer). Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions, no photo but excellent pitures. Climate: Sometimes is very windy, climbing all the year round. Place is sheltered in the forest and the rocks could be wet longer at some places so wind is definitely not bad here. Some spots are excellent for hot days. Where to stay: You can stay at Maly Yomenite at Vetrna Hurka hill in opposite of Chappell (there is a Berzerak boulder on the map) Tips: Some troubles regarding not existing topo/map and description could appear. If there are some, they are often not available in other language but Czech. Take a brush with but not only a teeth brush but something much more powerful. It is hard rough granite so eventually you can use a wire brush as well. There are as a bonus another bouldering areas Mlynsky vrch (Mull hill ) An beautiful setting on the hill above the village Lezky with plenty of problems ( more than 150 problems from 3 to 8A ) Vlci kopec (The Wolf hill ) and Kosobody

Kozelka rock

An excellent rock area. There are many walls and towers in beautiful nature. (restricted area). Rocks offer very nice soft climbing till 9- UIAA level. Character is volcanic tuffs and offer more than 200 routes Directions: 40 km NW from Plzen city near town Manetin, very close to village Nectiny and Doubravice. Climate: Mild, could be windy, all season area except winter Months: March till October

Radyne

A tradition rock climbing area near the Plzen city. The area has five sites but just the nearest to the top of the Radyne hill is reasonable and worth to visit. You can find there many easy and mostly well-protected routes. Nice setting. Directions: 8 km SO of Plzen. From the town of Plzen go to the small town Stary Plzenec and from that town follow the route to the top of the hill Radyne. There you can see well-known castle Radyne and from the castle a footpath leads downstream just five minutes to the crag. Climate: Mild not windy Months: Spring, summer and fall climbing

Sandstone areas

There are extensive sandstone areas on the nort-east of the republic. The most important are:

Zleb

It is no secret that the Zleb sandstone area along the river Elbe of North Czech offers probably the best sandstone climbing in Czech and some of the most spectacular scenery in our country. That fact has been officially recognized by establishing of some restricted areas. Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions no photo but excellent pitures. Climate: Mild, when rainy and after rain is not allowed to climb. Months: Early spring and late autumn, summer is the best period of the year.

Tisa

The Tisa is the most popular climbing area at Czech sandstone area. Mainly there is the Rocky town and the south faced long wall (it is 1 km long cliff band containing the highest concentration of climbs at the area) which both of them attract a lot of climbers. This may or may not be a good thing, depending on how many people you like around you when you climb. The area undoubtedly contains some of the finest climbs at the Tisa area, and the climbs are generally long (some over 40 m) and exposed. Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions no photo but excellent pitures.

Ostrov

Directions: Climate: Months: Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions no photo but excellent pitures.

Suche skaly

The sandstone area Suche skaly is an anomaly at Czech sandstone areas. The rock here is high-quality sandstone with round edges, finger holes and good friction. The area consists of two main rock formations. The Suche skaly area is the unique sandstone cliff above the village Mala Skala. It is higher and contains more moderate climbs than its counterpart to the west, the Pantheon area. It is a shorter quite high cliff with hard overhanging sport climbs. Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions, no photo but excellent pitures.

Panteon

Guidebooks: Very comprehensive descriptions, no photo but excellent pitures.

Adrspach

Guidebooks: Very detailed almost belletristic reading lot of information about history and ethics, nice descriptions few photo.

Krizovy vrch

Guidebooks: Also detailed with nice figures but little bit older.

Teplicke skaly

Guidebooks: Very detailed almost belletristic reading lot of information about history and ethics, nice descriptions few photo.

Ostas

Sandstones close to Teplicke skaly.

Broumovske steny

Sandstones close to Teplicke skaly.

Prachovske skaly

Guidebooks: Very detailed almost belletristic reading lot of information about history and ethics, nice descriptions few photo.

Hruboskalsko

Guidebooks: Very detailed almost belletristic reading lot of information about history and ethics, nice descriptions few photo. And additionally two very important areas close to Czech republic, precisely, Kaitersberg is situated along the border and Frankenjura is 100km more to the west.

Kaitersberg

And as a bonus I would like to highlight an area, which is not right in our country but is very close. Actually it is placed along the border with our country at German site and it is called Kaitersberg. Guidebooks: Very detailed with nice realistic figures lot of information about history also in german, nice descriptions few photo. And finally our (I mean, us, living in West Bohemia part of Czech rep. or in Prague) lovely place

North Frankenjura

For sure the best climbing area in Germany offer plenty of routes at all difficulty level. Very good quality limestone rocks, romantic landscape, deep forests and clean creeks are very beautiful scene for nice climbing trip. Directions: Rocks are spread all over the wide area of Bayreuth, Erlangen. (not too far from Nürnberg) Climate: Mild but often rainy Months: from May till September Guidebooks: Very detailed almost belletristic reading lot of information about history and ethics, nice descriptions few photo. Web guide: Topo on Lezec.cz Look at Frankenjura


Lezec.cz   [edit] 00:30 22.07.2003Print 

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