Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Vyšlo 2. vydání průvodce pro bouldering v Divoké Šárce v Praze
Křest Perel východu a video ze Stránské skály
Křest knihy Perly východu

Competitions
SP rychlost Polsko (05.07)
SP obtížnost, rychlost Chamonix (FRA) (11.07)
SP rychlost Klagenfurt (AUT) (26.07)

Ranking
Cesty:
9.Stráník 11427
10.Širůčková 11284
11.H2 11191
Bouldry:
9.Popovský 10478
10.Danda 10406
11.Stráník 10331
Hory:
19.Hess 3908
20.Punčochář 3751
21.Novotný 3598

Results
SP boulder, obtížnost Innsbruck (AUT) (25.06)
SP boulder Praha (CZE) (06.06)
Melloblocco (07.05)

Diary
5744 lezců
1163060 cest
Nové přelezy:
Am Arsch V 9-
Fat Burner 9-/9
Engram 7b+
Troppo Lei 7b+
Lady Domin 7B+/7C
Shaved Bea 7c
Nique La P 7c
Překvapení 9
Hlasy Ze Z Xc
Jay&Sneha 9/9+

Indoors
K2 - stěna už neexistuje - Plzeň
HO Jeseník - Jeseník
Zimní stadion Kopřivnice - Kopřivnice

Shops
Rock Point Vaňkovka - Brno
HUDYsport - Plzeň
BIVAK SPORT - BERKNER - KRNOV

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Harness Review 4

Rock Empire

obr_smallThis year Rock Empire released a new line of harnesses featuring new design twists designed to keep the climber safer.  But do new bells and whistles add up to more safety?  The Lezec /Czechclimbing team investigates. 

The Guardian Series




The Men´s version

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


First thing you will notice when you look at the harness is the dual belay loops- one regular and one dynema.  This makes identifying them separately, even in the dark, clear.  While two belay loops are superfluous for high end sport climbing, it makes establishing yourself on belay points on multi-pitch routes easier and safer. And anyone who has ever aid climbed knows what a mess your belay loop can become- with a separate belay loop for each aider the whole system is much cleaner and less confusion means more safety. 


This ingenious design makes belaying a breeze.

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


Upon closer inspection of the regular belay loop, you will notice a pocket in the overlap stitching where you can thread your belay carabiner.  This keeps the belay carabiner- and thus the belay device- firmly in position and prevents unwanted sideways movement while belaying, thus eliminating the possibility of cross loading the belay.  While all carabiners are strong enough to handle cross loading, the real advantage to this little detail is that it makes belaying much smoother, without the unwanted movement of the belay carabiner. 


Gaurdian in action: Bejbs throwing down on Brouci, 9+

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


The harness itself is a traditional construction centered around a weight bearing sling.  This year Rock Empire used a new mesh lining, but overall the design does not breath as well as others.  The waist belt and leg loops are adusted with self locking buckles which enhances the overall safety of the harness.  Ample gear loops, and sleeves to accomodate a carabiner for racking ice screws round out the functionality of the harness. 


The sleeve on the side holds a carabiner for racking ice screws

foto by © Andrew Burgoon



The Women´s model

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


The women´s model has all the same features but with a slightly different cut and fit, tailored to women´s bodies.

Conclusion:



The Safety focus of the Guardian makes it an ideal harness for beginners or groups.  The functionality of it´s dual belay loops, big gear loops, and sleeves to hold a ice tool racking carabiner make it a good choice for those looking to climb in the mountians.  It´s traditional design means it doesn´t breath as well as other tested harnesses.  For high end sport climbing, many of the features of this harness are not neccissary, however the belay sleeve within the nylon belay loop is a truly ingenious design which takes no space and no weight, while greatly enhancing the fuction of the harness. 

--------------------------------------------------------------
Pros
  • +  easy to adjust
  • +  dual belay loops
  • +  big gear loops
  • +  can attach ice tool racking carabiner


    --------------------------------------------------------------
    Cons
  • -  low breathability
  • -  double belay loops not needed for sport climbing

    --------------------------------------------------------------

  • Andrew Burgoon   [edit] 14:01 22.09.2008Print 

    Reklama:


    Related stories:

    Commentaries

         
    ...new commentsNew comment 

     Photo of the day:

    Holzkeilriss
     Routes:
    All routes (184565)
    Top routes in CR
    Top boulders in CR
    Latest routes
    Prašivina VIIIc Prachov
    Letitý Problém IXa Prachov
    A Qui Vighjinu 4c Bavella
    Chjacculella 4a Bavella
    Macarellu 4a Bavella
    Latest comments:
    Krása Nesmírná IXc Labské Údolí - Pravý Břeh
    Krása Nesmírná IXc Labské Údolí - Pravý Břeh
    Překvapení 9 Sloup
    Country Road VIIb Hrubá Skála
    Jižní Levá Cesta VII Prachov

     New in discussion:
    Morocco Family Tours | Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner |

     Latest comments:
    Re: Mr.hi | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr. | Re: Mr.hi | Aktuelle Situation | Adrspach | Officiell Jimmy Choo Gretchen Krossad Metalliska sandaler [a7df] | Replica Baume & Mercier -australia migliori qualitĂ  replica | Borse Prada viaggio | John |

     Hot:
    Youth European Championship in climbing (4)

     New in advertising:
    Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


     Instructions:
    Climbing map

     ...

     czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.