Czech Climbing

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Nová kniha Lékaři na horách: neviditelní hrdinové
Slovinsko
Frankenjura Band 1 a Band 2

Competitions
SP Salt Lake City (27.05)
OLOMOUCKÁ JEŠTĚRKA – ZÁVOD PRO DĚTI V LEZENÍ NA OBTÍŽNOST (04.06)
SP Brixen (10.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13822
2.Trojan 12100
3.Šindel 11706
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11600
2.Konečný 11525
3.Volf 11228
Hory:
1.Skopec 8228
2.Bartoš 7426
3.Bloudek 7201

Results
SP Salt Lake City (20.05)
Evropský pohár v boulderingu Praha (30.04)
Petrohradské padání (22.04)

Diary
5258 lezců
967234 cest
Nové přelezy:
Rajka 9-
Nejslabší XIa
Rychlá Smr 10-
Překvapení 9
Nur Ein Ar 9
Nastasia 9-
Zuby Nehty 8A
Myší Kožíš 9+
D.D.D. 9+
Butyžekrs 9+

Indoors
Lezecká stěna - Tábor
Lezecké centrum LezeTop v Písku - Písek
Le Blok - Ostrava 1

Shops
Husky Outdoor Shop - Plzeň
HUDYsport - Jihlava
HORALSPORT - KLADNO

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Harness Review 4

Rock Empire

obr_smallThis year Rock Empire released a new line of harnesses featuring new design twists designed to keep the climber safer.  But do new bells and whistles add up to more safety?  The Lezec /Czechclimbing team investigates. 

The Guardian Series




The Men´s version

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


First thing you will notice when you look at the harness is the dual belay loops- one regular and one dynema.  This makes identifying them separately, even in the dark, clear.  While two belay loops are superfluous for high end sport climbing, it makes establishing yourself on belay points on multi-pitch routes easier and safer. And anyone who has ever aid climbed knows what a mess your belay loop can become- with a separate belay loop for each aider the whole system is much cleaner and less confusion means more safety. 


This ingenious design makes belaying a breeze.

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


Upon closer inspection of the regular belay loop, you will notice a pocket in the overlap stitching where you can thread your belay carabiner.  This keeps the belay carabiner- and thus the belay device- firmly in position and prevents unwanted sideways movement while belaying, thus eliminating the possibility of cross loading the belay.  While all carabiners are strong enough to handle cross loading, the real advantage to this little detail is that it makes belaying much smoother, without the unwanted movement of the belay carabiner. 


Gaurdian in action: Bejbs throwing down on Brouci, 9+

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


The harness itself is a traditional construction centered around a weight bearing sling.  This year Rock Empire used a new mesh lining, but overall the design does not breath as well as others.  The waist belt and leg loops are adusted with self locking buckles which enhances the overall safety of the harness.  Ample gear loops, and sleeves to accomodate a carabiner for racking ice screws round out the functionality of the harness. 


The sleeve on the side holds a carabiner for racking ice screws

foto by © Andrew Burgoon



The Women´s model

foto by © Andrew Burgoon


The women´s model has all the same features but with a slightly different cut and fit, tailored to women´s bodies.

Conclusion:



The Safety focus of the Guardian makes it an ideal harness for beginners or groups.  The functionality of it´s dual belay loops, big gear loops, and sleeves to hold a ice tool racking carabiner make it a good choice for those looking to climb in the mountians.  It´s traditional design means it doesn´t breath as well as other tested harnesses.  For high end sport climbing, many of the features of this harness are not neccissary, however the belay sleeve within the nylon belay loop is a truly ingenious design which takes no space and no weight, while greatly enhancing the fuction of the harness. 

--------------------------------------------------------------
Pros
  • +  easy to adjust
  • +  dual belay loops
  • +  big gear loops
  • +  can attach ice tool racking carabiner


    --------------------------------------------------------------
    Cons
  • -  low breathability
  • -  double belay loops not needed for sport climbing

    --------------------------------------------------------------

  • Andrew Burgoon   [edit] 14:01 22.09.2008Print 

    Reklama:


    Related stories:

    Commentaries

         
    ...new commentsNew comment 

    Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu
     Photo of the day:
    Radnice
    Muž Na Radnici, 6+
     Routes:
    All routes (157975)
    Top routes in CR
    Top boulders in CR
    Latest routes
    Pták 6B Zvůle
    Šidítko 5B Zvůle
    Duch Slovanský 6C+ Vesecký Yosemite
    Kaffeepause 7- Kammerstein
    Kneifervariante 3+ Kammerstein
    Latest comments:
    Butyžekrs 9+ Lukov
    Butyžekrs 9+ Lukov
    Butyžekrs 9+ Lukov
    Jižní Cesta V Labské Údolí - Pravý Břeh
    Na Slunci 5+ Prokopské Údolí

     New in discussion:
    Please help me complete my university bouldering project! | Will you go from CZECH REPUBLIC to LONDON, UK? | Re: Rental for crashpad?! | Clearance Moncler Down Women Coats Hooded Long Brown [MC-0006] - | Christmas Day UGG Sundance II 5325 Boots For Women Outlet | Moncler Vests Mens : Moncler Outlet, Cheap Moncler Jackets, Monc | Mr | Climbing partner, Praha saturday | Re: Climbing Partner | Climbing Partner |

     Latest comments:

     Hot:

     New in advertising:
    Climbing Partner | Looking for a climbing partner | route setters |


     Instructions:
    Climbing map

     ...

     czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.