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The spring warming up in Spain

smThe World Champion in lead climbing Tomas Mrazek and his friend Helena Lipenska returned  from Spain climbing yesterday and wrote a short report according to it Tomas did 21 routes (8a to 8b+) on sight or flash, Helena 2x 8a PP, 7c on sight.

“To have guarantee of nice weather in this tough for climbing winter we had to travel to north east Spain. Because the journey was long, we wormed up for two first days in French Castillon.

Then the trip to Terradets, Santa Linya, Alquezar and in the end to Montsant follows.


foto by© Helena Lipenska

The weather was quite cold (about 10-15 C) but for climbing on sunshine it was good enough.
We liked mostly the area Terradets, where we spent also most time. There were endurance routes over stalactites ending with technique climbs via ledges. Santa Linya is the area predestined for really performance climbers. We warmed up there in 7b+ and it was classical climbing in cave that means in huge overhang or roof. The routes were full of sharp holes and fragile. Simply the superb area on view disappointed us.


foto by© Tom Mrázek

In Alquezar and Montsant we spent one day in each, because of not nice holds in Alquezar and 8 C and raining weather in really beautiful Montsant.

We planed much more climbing, but the weather betrayed us even here in Spain. But in spite of it we sent some climbs.


foto by© Helča Lipenská

Tomáš :

8b+ OS  Desafiado a newton (Alquezar)

8b+ FL    Koala (Santa Linya)

8b OS    Santa Linya (Santa Linya), Non stop (Terradets)

8a+ OS  - overall 7 routes

8a OS      - overall 9 routes

8c PP      Ingravis serps (Santa Linya)


8a PP    Traversia de los gladiatores, Deborah ombres (both routs Santa Linya).

7c OS    Occident (Terradets)

7b+ OS  Boludito (Santa Linya).

Tom Mrázek

foto by© Helča Lipenská

More info and photos:

Tomas Mrazek, Helena Lipenska   [edit] 13:02 20.03.2006Print 


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