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Camillotto Pellesier 8b

Dolomites

smallAfter climbing Akut (Cima Ovest) last year we agreed to cllimb another similarly hard route, graded 8b, a member of Czech mountain climbing representation team Stanislav Hovanec (nicknamed Kvak) writes in Czech version of this site www.lezec.cz.

We focused on the old technical ascent Camillotto Pellesier, which was first aided in 1967 by brothers Minuzzo. Mauro „Bubu“ Bole did the route free in 2003 and classified it as 8b.
He climbed individual pitches with usage of original pitons, old belays repaired by bolts. Bole described it as „there were lots of pitons, every 70-80cm, but some only stuck in a few millimetres in the rock and for the most part faced downwards. Good for hanging but I doubt they could bear jumps however small..“
More from Bubu

foto a

foto b


Further the Stanislav´s articel describes initial problems with snow under the face and some fall after big block of rock fell down with the author. Then he writes about various other difficulties with the attempts and the succesfull RP try.

foto c


foto d


The author thanks to sponsors: ČHS - Czech Mountaineering Association, companies: Triop, Alpinus and Raveltik and also to the photographer Ricardo Jurečka.

Resume:
Dolomites, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the North Face of Cima Grande 3003 m, 21st June – 9th July 2004, the route „Camillotto Pellesier“ classification 8b (or rather 8a/a+), 500 m, climbing of the route in style RP team.
Stanislav „Kvak“ Hovanec - HO Baník Karviná
Dušan „Stoupa“ Janák - HO Lokomotiva Brno
The most difficult pitch did Dušan Janák
Classification of the pitches: 7b+, 7c, 8b(8a/8a+), 8a, 7a, 8a+(8a), the rest of 250 m 5-6+.

Lezec.cz   [edit] 23:40 15.08.2004Print 

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