While on expedition in Patagonia in March of 2005, Dean Potter and Thomas Huber thought out bold plan: To climb the north faces of Cima Picolla, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest in one day. The key to the plan's success was to figure out the fastest descent.
As the tempatures drop and the days grow shorter, our vision is lowered from the lofty heights to the easily accesable boulders close by. Long forgotten are long approches, hard clips, the idea of the redpoint crux, saving some for the top- all the mental trappings of route climbing. Instead we are captivated by simple movement over stone: hard moves, absurd holds, the fluttering heart of a highball...
Czech boy wonder, Adam Ondra (13 years old), was granted The Ascent of the Year 2006 by The Czech Mountaineering Union for his ascent of Martin Krpan 9a, PP, in Osp, Slovenia. He also got extraordinary appreciation in 2006 for the large number of ascents of extreme difficulty, "in the case of 13-years-old climber it is the world unique performance".
We have visited this beautiful spot several times within the years of 2004 and 2006. This area touched my feelings deeply therefore I would like to introduce it to the audience.
13 years old Adam Ondra is the best climber of Czech Republic in the rock climbing rankings and he is one of the best climbers world wide at all. So we had to ask Adam for a Christmas mini interview at least.
UPDATE +video The world champion Tomas Mrazek and the Czech best junior girl Silvie Rajfova won the Czech Championship in lead climbing today in Prague in new climbing hall SmichOFF.
If you are a sport climber at heart, surely you have come across this situation: beautiful route, high first bolt, bad landing. Maybe you were too scared to climb up and clip it yourself; maybe you didn’t want to assume the risk of a ground fall. Or maybe you decided to go for it, and you bared down hard on every hold and locker off every move until you clip that first bolt, wasting precious energy for the send.
Slovak mountaineering union James has granted the Ascents of the year 2006. The highest award the Golden Carabiner was given to Peter Hamor for ascent on Anapurna and to Gabriel Čmárik and Jozef Kopold for first ascent in Karakoram, Pakistan on Uli Biaho Tower (6109 m).
European Youth Cup Kranj, Slovenia - the results of the finals today: Martin Stráník 1st and Silvie Rajfová 4th.
News from Saturday:
European Youth Cup Kranj, Slovenia - the results of the qualification today: Martin Stráník and Silvie Rajfová continue to the finals from the first positions.
Czech climbers Dušan "Stoupa" Janák and Jirka Šrůtek climbed the route Freerider (V, 5.13a) on El Capitan in Yosemites in the latter half of October 2006.
While on expedition in Patagonia in March of 2005, Dean Potter and Thomas Huber thought out bold plan: To climb the north faces of Cima Picolla, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest in one day. The key to the plan's success was to figure out the fastest descent.
The realization of this imposing plan for both climbers started on September 11, 2006. The vision "three routes, two jumps and one day" began to materialize shortly after midnight, when both actors began the route 'Ötzi trifft Yeti'. It is a modern sport route on Cima Piccola, 8+ UIAA. Also scheduled that day were 'Phantom der Zinne' on Cima Grande 9 UIAA, and 'Schweizer Dach' on Cima Ovest, also 9 UIAA. All together more then 45 pitches of climbing in 24 hours, two in the 9th grade and 16 in the 8th grade UIAA.
At 4.00 a.m. they had already toped out on the first route by light of their headlights. They waited until morning light and the first 270 meter long jump followed. At half past six they both began the route 'Phantom der Zinne' on Cima Grande. They reached the top at 13.00 and the second base jump happened went off without a hitch.
At 3 pm they began the 'Schweizer Dach' on Cima Ovest. Thomas lead and for the first 20 metres everything is alright. suddenly Thomas felt a trounling pain in his shoulder and they had to finish the entire event. The big idea ends and long four month rehabilitation phase starts...
The entire action was realised with assistence from a team of friends, who took pictures (Heinz Zak), and also of camera crew (so we could look forward to some next mountain film festival..., remark of the translator).
The night ascent via the route Ötzi trifft Yeti 8+, Cima Piccolla
The loose, short translation of the article + photos according to www.huberbuam.de with the personal courtesy of Thomas Huber. More pictures from the event are at the hyperlinked site of the Huber´s brothers.
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While on expedition in Patagonia in March of 2005, Dean Potter and Thomas Huber thought out bold plan: To climb the north faces of Cima Picolla, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest in one day. The key to the plan's success was to figure out the fastest descent.
As the tempatures drop and the days grow shorter, our vision is lowered from the lofty heights to the easily accesable boulders close by. Long forgotten are long approches, hard clips, the idea of the redpoint crux, saving some for the top- all the mental trappings of route climbing. Instead we are captivated by simple movement over stone: hard moves, absurd holds, the fluttering heart of a highball...
Czech boy wonder, Adam Ondra (13 years old), was granted The Ascent of the Year 2006 by The Czech Mountaineering Union for his ascent of Martin Krpan 9a, PP, in Osp, Slovenia. He also got extraordinary appreciation in 2006 for the large number of ascents of extreme difficulty, "in the case of 13-years-old climber it is the world unique performance". 
We have visited this beautiful spot several times within the years of 2004 and 2006. This area touched my feelings deeply therefore I would like to introduce it to the audience.
13 years old Adam Ondra is the best climber of Czech Republic in the rock climbing rankings and he is one of the best climbers world wide at all. So we had to ask Adam for a Christmas mini interview at least.
UPDATE +video The world champion Tomas Mrazek and the Czech best junior girl Silvie Rajfova won the Czech Championship in lead climbing today in Prague in new climbing hall SmichOFF.
If you are a sport climber at heart, surely you have come across this situation: beautiful route, high first bolt, bad landing. Maybe you were too scared to climb up and clip it yourself; maybe you didn’t want to assume the risk of a ground fall. Or maybe you decided to go for it, and you bared down hard on every hold and locker off every move until you clip that first bolt, wasting precious energy for the send. 
Slovak mountaineering union James has granted the Ascents of the year 2006. The highest award the Golden Carabiner was given to Peter Hamor for ascent on Anapurna and to Gabriel Čmárik and Jozef Kopold for first ascent in Karakoram, Pakistan on Uli Biaho Tower (6109 m).
European Youth Cup Kranj, Slovenia - the results of the finals today: Martin Stráník 1st and Silvie Rajfová 4th.
Czech climbers Dušan "Stoupa" Janák and Jirka Šrůtek climbed the route Freerider (V, 5.13a) on El Capitan in Yosemites in the latter half of October 2006.
