We had some experience with other first ascents, so after learning the local ethics- that routes must be ground up without power drills- we decided for the least probable variant of logical a route on this particular rock monument.
Well there would be more places, but climbing in a stone quarry or a botanical garden of cactuses is not the best choice, so the relatively firmest rock is in northeast or north face of the Sugar Loaf. Relatively firm, because even there you find loose stones, but the worse we had already broken down by ours skyhooks or hands and feet.
So it is a three pitches route. The first pitch is 6b+/30m technical plate. The first bolts Tomas put in a heat of 35 degrees Celcius. So after dropping down we realized we had to wait for shade or continue the next morning. In the evening I continued and added two more bolts, then Tomas went on and we had a belay station. We were under the overhang.
The second pitch is 8a+ /25m and their creating got the working name "psycho", about 70% of what we held came off and sitting in skyhooks was a bit of an adrenalin rush.
Its my turn to try to put in a bolt, but I do not want too run it out on loose rock. Then Tomas tried it and put the bolt a bit further. The master continues in cleaning. A slight traverse left down and several long moves on crimps, you would hardly believe with even a skyhook. He finds a position, carefuly sits, covers teeth, but the hold doesn´t hold. Many falls, and then he tries a loose hold and it keeps, so after ten minutes psycho the bolt is on. Another five metres are ahead. Continuing on. Two giant jumps follow and a good ledge, bolt and another one and one more and change. The same psycho with every bolt, I put two bolts and the belay station. The hand drill is after the first bolt dead so I go down and Tomas hammers down the second one. Uf, the hardest pitch on the Sugarloaf mountain is ready. We enjoyed the super adrenalin experience.
The third pitch goes along two bolts by Tomas and he shows nice style like on Czech trad sandstone. And he joints to the older routes, there for we continue by Italian route to the summit.
Well and ours feelings?
The route is nice, well bolted and in sport style. And is literally attracting the other adepts to try it to climb and do the first repetition after Tomas who climbed the route on 7th February 2007. (In his Czech articel on
Hudy site Tomas explaines he did it in an afternoon under the dark sky and during rain and on the several atempt RK). You will have to speed up because Brazilians may going to cancel the route. Allegedly the Pao de Azucar was declared by natural preservation and new first ascents are forbidden there specifically in the north face. In the south face they are allowed, but the cactuses would defend any attepmt to try to go through. Well we will see how they will decide, each time they say something different. In Brazil everything is possisble so the removable heads of the bolts will be able in climbing center Vertical Limit in Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro.
Be aware that everything you do not take away from the route, could disappear in one day. Including slings you leave on the belay station.
After the fulfilling the old dream we were satisfied and we enjoyed more and more adventures in the city of gods, where man has sometimes feeling that it was bought by hell.
Simply when you think, that something has just finished, it has just started. But it is for a long story. Viva la Brasilia, greeting to all fellows.
Jirka Lautner
(photos by Jirka Lautner and Tomas Sobotka)
The other participants: Vodar, Parek, Monrou and Peta.
Beda:
Mesto bohu RP 8a+ (Cidade de Deus, City of Gods), Pao de Azucar, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil - 26, 27 and 29 January 2007 - Tomáš Sobotka x Jirka Lautner, Czech Republic (Hudy Sport, Rock Empire, Direct Alpine a ČHS)
The inspiration for the route setting came from the movie City of Gods.
Translation from the original article in Czech on: www.Lezec.cz by Lezec team 
Registration
lezec.cz
A pair of Czech climbers Tomas Sobotka and Jiri Lautner set out to make the first ascent on Pao de Azúcar (Pão de Açúcar - Sugar Loaf) in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, at the end of the January 2007.
It all started on Thursday, January 25. My dad came home from work and asked me: „Don´t you want to go with the Ondras´ to Spain? Eva wrote me, and she has space.
Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Jan Kreisinger got an "Honourable mention" for their first ascent of the Meru Central in Garhwal Himalaya, India by the American magazine Climbing in its Golden Piton awards celebration.
Serkan Ercan (Seko) (25) is the best male climber in Turkey, having sent many routes 8a and harder including the hardest route in Turkey 8c+.
While on expedition in Patagonia in March of 2005, Dean Potter and Thomas Huber thought out bold plan: To climb the north faces of Cima Picolla, Cima Grande and Cima Ovest in one day. The key to the plan's success was to figure out the fastest descent.
As the tempatures drop and the days grow shorter, our vision is lowered from the lofty heights to the easily accesable boulders close by. Long forgotten are long approches, hard clips, the idea of the redpoint crux, saving some for the top- all the mental trappings of route climbing. Instead we are captivated by simple movement over stone: hard moves, absurd holds, the fluttering heart of a highball...
Czech boy wonder, Adam Ondra (13 years old), was granted The Ascent of the Year 2006 by The Czech Mountaineering Union for his ascent of Martin Krpan 9a, PP, in Osp, Slovenia. He also got extraordinary appreciation in 2006 for the large number of ascents of extreme difficulty, "in the case of 13-years-old climber it is the world unique performance". 
We have visited this beautiful spot several times within the years of 2004 and 2006. This area touched my feelings deeply therefore I would like to introduce it to the audience.
13 years old Adam Ondra is the best climber of Czech Republic in the rock climbing rankings and he is one of the best climbers world wide at all. So we had to ask Adam for a Christmas mini interview at least.
UPDATE +video The world champion Tomas Mrazek and the Czech best junior girl Silvie Rajfova won the Czech Championship in lead climbing today in Prague in new climbing hall SmichOFF.
