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Books
Vyšla nejnovější kniha Reinholda Messnera Symboly
Průvodce Elbtal 1 a 2
Mistr skal

Competitions
MČR ve skialpech (14.12)
JINGLE JAM vol. 7 (16.12)
Vánoční závody Ruzyně (24.12)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Šindel 12953
2.Votoček 12900
3.Štípek 12275
Bouldry:
1.Volf 11503
2.Ondra 11434
3.Trojan 11200
Hory:
1.Sejbal 8423
2.Černý 8001
3.Groš 7768

Results
EP ledy Utrecht, Nizozemsko (13.12)
Kvalifikace ve skialpinistickém sprintu USA (07.12)
EP v ledolezení Brno (06.12)

Diary
5840 lezců
1193283 cest
Nové přelezy:
Trojan War 8A
Jedna Mozk 7C
Velkej Kou 8A+
Kouř 7C+
Kaolinový 8A
Kaolinový 7C
Kombi Lajn 8A
Elektrické Xa
Pravda A L 9
Velmistr A XIb

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeň
V 16 - Plzeň
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Category:
 Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push
Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.
Commentaries (0)15.11.2016... full story
 Adam Ondra from Dawn Wall: we are going for the push
Czech top climber Adam Ondra is going for the push attempt of free climbing on the world hardest multi pitch route Dawn Wall, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, on Monday at 3 a.m. that means at noon of Central European time. He announced it on Instagram last night.
Commentaries (0)14.11.2016... full story
 Czech film Climbing Higher won on Banff festival
Czech film Climbing Higher with Czech mountaineer Radek Jaroš and his ascets to the 14 world tallest mountains got the award as the Best Feature-Length Mountain Film on the famous muintaneering film festival in Banff, Canada.
Commentaries (0)08.11.2016... full story
 Petrohradske padani international bouldering compet. canceled
This year´s annual of the international bouldering open air competition Petrohradske Padani in Petrohrad, western Bohemia, Czech Republic, that should place on the 7th-8th October 2016, has been canceled because of the bad weather forecast.
Commentaries (0)03.10.2016... full story
 Czech Championship in bouldering 2016
smallThe Czech Championship in bouldering 2016 took place i Slane (30 km wester of Prague). Martin Stráník and Veronika Šimková won the competition and are the Chech Champions 2016.
Commentaries (0)24.09.2016... full story
 Adam Ondra World Champion 2016 in lead
Czech Adam Ondra has become the World Champion in lead climbing in Paris today, and was the Vice-champion in bouldering yesterday there..
Other Czechs: Libor Hroza 7th and Jan Kříž 16th (speed climbing), Jakub Konečný 23rd (lead climbing).
Commentaries (0)18.09.2016... full story
 Adam Ondra won Rock Master Duel and KO Boulder Contest
Adam Ondra won the 30th annual of the legendary Rock Master Trophy duel and also KO boulder Contest in Arco, Italy, today.
Commentaries (0)28.08.2016... full story
 Results of the 33rd International mountaineering film festival
smallWinners of the 33rd International mountaineering film festival in Teplice nad Metuji (Adrspach), Nord East Bohemia, Czech Republic. The Grand Prize was given to "K2 Dotknac nieba", by Eliza Kubarska, Poland.
Commentaries (0)28.08.2016... full story
 Lead and speed World Cup, Arco, ITA
Czech Adam Ondra finished 5th in the finals of the World Cup lead climbing competition in Arco, Italy today. Same as him, another Czech Libor Hroza finished 5th in speed climbing there. The competitions were held during the legendary festival of Rock Master.
Commentaries (0)27.08.2016... full story
 World Cup in lead climbing 2016, Imst, Austria
Czechs did not succeeded in the qualification in the World Cup competition in lead climbing in Imst, Austria. Domen Škofič (SLO) and Magdalena Röck (AUT) won today.
Commentaries (0)22.08.2016... full story
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Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push

Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.

Update:⠀ “We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Trying not to be shaken & trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes & started climbing.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, & I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) & pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure & somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear & I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 & 6 (5.12b, 5.12d & 5.13c) went all right & soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it's protected only by beaks & copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool…until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held & I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope & headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I wouldn't fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off & soon I was at the anchor.⠀ ⠀ “I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d & 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp & ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!⠀ ⠀ “Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit & I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine & quickly finished the next pitch too.⠀ ⠀ “Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10-13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b & 5.13b).”⠀ ⠀ –@Adam.Ondra Photo: Heinz Zak

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on











Adam is pulling up on ropes to the BC on portaledge, in the middel of the wall: "Den je krásný ...," he sings the Czech song (The Day is beautiful):




@adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on



sth   [edit] 12:55 15.11.2016Print 

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