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Category:
 Michi Wohlleben free climbs the hardest route on Cime Grand
smallTogether with my friend Thomas Schrott, I started in the beginning of July already to the Cime Grande.
Commentaries (0)16.08.2011... full story
 Interview with Ines Papert
A woman from the mountains, it was the first thing what came up to my mind after I met her in Bad Schandau where she had a slide show. Ines Papert is not only four time Ice Climbing World Champion in difficulty, but also great climber, mountain climber, congenial woman and mother of ten boy who simply lives her dreams ...
Commentaries (0)10.08.2011... full story
 Exhibition of CzechClimbing.com readers photos
Exhibition of Photos by Lezec.cz / CzechClimbing .com readers ("Fotky z Lezce") has been installed in Znojmo (Znaim), Moravian town near of Austrian border (South East of Czech Republic) in the gallery of vegetarian restaurant Na Vecnosti.
Commentaries (0)06.08.2011... full story
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small We would like to invite you to join a remarkable campaign in which your participation could save someone's life. 
Nothing more, nothing less.
Commentaries (1)30.05.2011... full story
 Climb Web Net meeting
This year's annual Webclimb.net meeting (already our fifth) took place in the heart of North Wales.
Commentaries (0)21.05.2011... full story
 Petrohradske PADani 2011 international bouldering competition
smallAdam Ondra won the PADani 2011, the open air international bouldering competition, last weekend in Petrohrad, West Bohemia, Czech Republic. There was large international participation e.g. from Germany, Slovakia, Poland, Belgium, Austria, France, USA, Spain, UK.

Look at results and some photos:
Commentaries (0)02.05.2011... full story
 Adam Ondra - La planta de shiva 9b
On April 22 Adam Ondra has made the FA of "La planta de shiva", Villanueva del Rosario (Málaga-Spain).
Commentaries (0)26.04.2011... full story
 Lucie Hrozova was 2nd on ice climbing World Cup in Russia
Czech women Lucie Hrozova was 2nd on the UIAA World Cup ice climbing competition on March 6th-8th, 2011 in Kirov, Russia. By this result she got 2nd place in overall final ranking of the World Cup ice climbing 2011.
Commentaries (1)09.03.2011... full story
 Lucie Hrozova was 2nd on ice climbing World Cup in Switzerland
Czech women Lucie Hrozova was 2nd on the UIAA World Cup ice climbing competition on January 21st-22nd, 2011 in Saas Fee, Switzerland.
Commentaries (0)23.01.2011... full story
 Czech Lucia Hrozova was 3rd on ice climbing World Cup in Korea
Czech women Lucie Hrozova was 3rd on the UIAA World Cup ice climbing competition on January 8th-9th, 2011 in Cheongsong, Korea.
Commentaries (0)10.01.2011... full story
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Michi Wohlleben free climbs the hardest route on Cime Grand

smallTogether with my friend Thomas Schrott, I started in the beginning of July already to the Cime Grande.

Our project was to climb the Camilotto-Pellisier Route. A route which was first ascented in the year 1968 in techno climbing style. The north face of Cime Grande is 500m long. The hardest part of the route is the beginning 6 always very steep pitches: 7b+, 7c+, 8a+, 7c+/8a, 7a, 8a+. The cux pitch is the last one.

01

In Dolomites

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



After these pitches 6 more alpine pitches in the grade 5a to 6c+ are following. And then you come on the Dibona-Pillar which brings you via grade 3 and 4 terrain to the summit.

02

Thomas and Michi

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


03

Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route

photo by © Hansi Heckmair



The first time climbing in the route in the beginning of July was just perfect, I was nearly able to send already all pitches free, even the last pitch, the crux pitch I was able to send in flash. But due to bad weather we had to go home for another 3 weeks and waiting every day for better weather. But then the weather changed good. On the 2nd August I was standing with my partner Thomas under the first pitch of Camilotto-Pellisier. It was 8.30 o’clock and really really cold. But after warming up a little bit I started climbing and it felt very easy. And the same happened with the others. Pitch 2, 3, 4, 5 and I was standing under the roof 200m over the ground.

04

Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


05

Michi in Camilotto-Pellisier Route

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


I knew now I just have to be a little bit brave and concentrated and I’ll have it. And I did it like that, doing the moves as I knew them and I came to the chaine, crying and laughing. The further pitches were little bit like a winning parade, running up these pitches with perfect rock.

06

On the summit

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


07

Tre Cime - Cime Grande

photo by © Hansi Heckmair


At 15.30 o’clock we were at the summit very happy! It was again a dream which I could fullfill myself this year. After climbing Eiger North Face in 5h10min in Winter I said: “I’ll relaxe” after sending a mixed route in Grade M12+ in Flash I said: “I’ll relaxe” after sending a 8c/8c+ route in climbing garden I said: “I’ll relaxe” but I never did, I was training for the next project. But now I will!!! There is just one disciplin missing: Bouldering…but for that I’m too weak.

Source:
Michi's website MichiWohlleben.de





Michi   [edit] 10:27 16.08.2011Print 

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