Nicolas Favresse repeated Greenspit a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.
IFSC European Youth Series (L) - Prague (CZE) 2008
Todays qualification of the IFSC European Youth Series in lead climbing in Prague, Czech Republic: the three Czech representatives succeeded in their categories: Adam Ondra, Martin Stranik and Silva Rajfová continues to the Sunday´s finals.
Next weekend the another annual of Master Dimarock competition takes place in Basque country on the northern Spain for invited elite climbers (this year agian with the Czech champion Tomas Mrazek)
IFSC European Youth Series (L) - Prague (CZE) 2008: this weekend
Preparation works for this weekend IFSC European Youth Series in lead climbing in Prague, Czech Republic are in full speed. The competition is giong to take place on May 17/18, 2008 in Prague 5 indoor climbing wall Smichoff.
Heinz Zak on highline at towers Starosta and Starostova in Adr
Legendary Austrian climber, highliner and photographer Heinz Zak did last weekend extraordinary highline between two impressive sandstones towers Starosta and Starostova (Mayor and Lady Mayor) in Adrspach, North East Bohemia, Czech Republic.
The Czech representative team spent one short week meeting and climbing together at Osp, Slovenia, in March 12-17, 2008. Check out the character of the members, presented by the coach Petr Resch
IFSC European Youth Series has its competition in Prague, Czech Republic in 2 weeks. The competition is scheduled on May 17-18 2008 in the calendar of the IFSC. The competition should be located in Prague largest indoor wall "Smichoff" in Prague 5, Smichov.
Nicolas Favresse repeated Greenspit a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.
The route consisted on a 12-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists and finger jams. The route was first redpointed by the strong Swiss crack specialist, Didier Berthod, and features in the movie First ascents.
In Nico's word: This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I am the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!
It was a perfect send. The day was over but there was still just enough light to give a very last try. I was already feeling a little bit tired but I wanted to give it all a last chance. When I arrived at the crux the right piece of pro slipped of my hands and fell to the ground while trying to place it. For a moment I thought it was over then I looked on my harness and saw my last pro I hesitated for a while then turned to my belayer and said: I' ll just go for it! I placed my very last pro (making it impossible to protect the end of the route) without being able to see how it looked because of the darkness. And I went with my last resources and the chance to hit the ground if I fell at the end of the crux. Although the route is normally very safe for a traditional climb.
A few days later, partnered by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas did the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole 5 pitches of (5, 6a+, 6c, 8a, 8b) The route was first all freed climbed by Christian Brenna.
It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing Nico says.
Also on the hard pitches the protections are all fixed so it s not really a trad I had a great time exploring Orco valley mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch and there is still so much to explore.