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1.Volf 11553
2.Ondra 11434
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Hory:
1.Èerný 8432
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3.Groš 7240

Results
ÈP v bouldru Praha (24.01)
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MÈR v ledezení na rychlost (13.01)

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Hariquita 8B
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Chameleon 10
Raise The 10+

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeò
Lezecká stìna Kbely - Praha 9 – Kbely
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LANEX eshop - Bolatice
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IT:
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Category:
 Greenspit
Nicolas Favresse repeated  Greenspit  a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.
Commentaries (0)20.05.2008... full story
 IFSC European Youth Series (L) - Prague (CZE) 2008
Todays qualification of the IFSC European Youth Series in lead climbing in Prague, Czech Republic: the three Czech representatives succeeded in their categories: Adam Ondra, Martin Stranik and Silva Rajfová continues to the Sunday´s finals.
Commentaries (0)17.05.2008... full story
 Dimarock 2008
Next weekend the another annual of Master Dimarock competition takes place in Basque country on the northern Spain for invited elite climbers (this year agian with the Czech champion Tomas Mrazek) 
Commentaries (0)17.05.2008... full story
 IFSC European Youth Series (L) - Prague (CZE) 2008: this weekend
Preparation works for this weekend IFSC European Youth Series in lead climbing in Prague, Czech Republic are in full speed. The competition is giong to take place on May 17/18, 2008 in Prague 5 indoor climbing wall Smichoff.
Commentaries (0)14.05.2008... full story
 Heinz Zak on highline at towers Starosta and Starostova in Adr
Legendary Austrian climber, highliner and photographer Heinz Zak did last weekend extraordinary highline between two impressive sandstones towers Starosta and Starostova (Mayor and Lady Mayor) in Adrspach, North East Bohemia, Czech Republic.
Commentaries (0)09.05.2008... full story
 Czech sponsored team in Osp
The Czech representative team spent one short week meeting and climbing together at Osp, Slovenia, in March 12-17, 2008. Check out the character of the members, presented by the coach Petr Resch
Commentaries (1)09.05.2008... full story
 Adam Ondra climbed another 11 in Frankenjura (D)
obr_smallAdam Ondra added to his diary yet another "Scalp from the Frankenjura"- the route Unplugged, 11 UIAA.
Commentaries (0)05.05.2008... full story
 Czechs climbed Dhaulagiri (8.167 m)
Czech mountaineers Radek Jaros and Zdenek Hruby climbed Dhaulagiri (8.167 m) on May 4th, 2008, the Czech state radio reported.
Commentaries (0)05.05.2008... full story
 World Cup Reunion (FRA) 2.-3.5. – bouldering
World Cup in bouldering Reunion (FRA): Czech girl Silva Rajfova did not repeat last year´s bronze and finished on 17th place.
Commentaries (0)03.05.2008... full story
 EYS will take place in Prague in 2 weeks
IFSC European Youth Series has its competition in Prague, Czech Republic in 2 weeks. The competition is scheduled on May 17-18 2008 in the calendar of the IFSC. The competition should be located in Prague largest indoor wall "Smichoff" in Prague 5, Smichov.
Commentaries (0)03.05.2008... full story
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Greenspit

Hardest trad crack in Europe

Nicolas Favresse repeated  Greenspit  a contender for the hardest trad crack in Europe. At the end of two days of effort Nico managed to repeat the route on his 7th try placing the protection on the send.

The route consisted on a 12-meter roof crack with lots of tricky crack climbing moves mixing hand, fists and finger jams. The route was first redpointed by the strong Swiss crack specialist, Didier Berthod, and features in the movie First ascents.

In Nico's word:  This route is truly fantastic and very unique for European climbing. I can't believe I am the first person to repeat this. It's so classic!



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


It was a perfect send. The day was over but there was still just enough light to give a very last try. I was already feeling a little bit tired but I wanted to give it all a last chance. When I arrived at the crux the right piece of pro slipped of my hands and fell to the ground while trying to place it. For a moment I thought it was over then I looked on my harness and saw my last pro I hesitated for a while then turned to my belayer and said: I' ll just go for it!  I placed my very last pro (making it impossible to protect the end of the route) without being able to see how it looked because of the darkness. And I went with my last resources and the chance to hit the ground if I fell at the end of the crux.  Although the route is normally very safe for a traditional climb. 



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez




foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


A few days later, partnered by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas did the first free repeat of Itaca nel sole 5 pitches of (5, 6a+, 6c, 8a, 8b) The route was first all freed climbed by Christian Brenna.
 
It's a very nice technical challenge of beautiful climbing  Nico says.

Also on the hard pitches the protections are all fixed so it s not really a trad I had a great time exploring Orco valley mixing it all from bouldering, sport climbing to trad and multi pitch and there is still so much to explore.    



foto by © Bernardo Gimenez


The photographer is Bernardo Gimenez - http://www.bernardogimenez.com

Source:

Source website Nicolas Favresse

Nicolas Favresse    [edit] 09:09 20.05.2008Print 

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