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Category:
 Ondra's new route contender for hardest in Czech Republic
smCzech Adam Ondra (14) did the first ascent of what is probably the hardest sport route in the Czech Republic- Perla Vychodu (Pearl of east). He graded it 11-/11 UIAA (French 8c+) and  thinks it is the hardest route he has ever climbed (he already did several 9a's).
Commentaries (0)18.09.2007... full story
 World Championship in sport climbing Avilés (ESP) 2007
smWorld Championship in sport climbing 2007 2007 begins on Monday September 17, in Avilés (ESP) northern Spain.
Commentaries (0)16.09.2007... full story
 World Cup in bouldering in Brno, Czech Republic confirmed
Czech organizers have confirmed this week that World Cup in bouldering will take place in Brno, Czech Republic, on November 9-10, 2007.
Commentaries (0)14.09.2007... full story
 Protest on the Aletsch Glacier
A living sculpture from naked activists on glacier brought an alarming global warming protest.
Commentaries (0)10.09.2007... full story
 Rock Master is on this weekend
smThe XXI Rock Master is about to take place in Arco, Italy, this weekend on 7-9 September 2007 with participation of Czech climbers: reigning World champion Tomas Mrazek will compete in the lead competition, Silvie Rajfova the bouldering and Libor Hroza the speed climbing.
Commentaries (0)06.09.2007... full story
 Realization
The American guy, Ethan Pringle did the 5th ascent of Realization on Monday the 3. September.
Commentaries (0)05.09.2007... full story
 Czech Cup in speed Kladno
The Czech Cup competition in speed climbing took part this weekend in Kladno (20 km west from Prague) on opendoor climbing tower Hokok. Libor Hroza and Tereza Jendrejasova won.
Commentaries (0)04.09.2007... full story
 Bouldering festival on rocks in Ukraine
smOpen bouldering festival will take place at Dovbush rocks, Carpathian Mts (Ukraine, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Dolyna district) on 12-14 October.
Commentaries (0)30.08.2007... full story
 Bouldering competition and Film festival in Zakopane, Poland
Invitation for the bouldering competition Zako Boulder Power 2007 which will take place in Zakopane on 9th of September came from Poland. The competition will be as a part of the mountain film festival Spotkania z Filmem Górskim in the town of Zakopane which takes place from 6th to 9th September 2007
Commentaries (0)28.08.2007... full story
 Czech Cup in bouldering - on Festak (Film Festival)
Update+results+photos Martin Fojtik and Nely Kudrova won the Czech Cup competition in bouldering - Nescafé Boulder MHFF - today during the International mountain film festival
Commentaries (0)25.08.2007... full story
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Ondra's new route contender for hardest in Czech Republic

smCzech Adam Ondra (14) did the first ascent of what is probably the hardest sport route in the Czech Republic- Perla Vychodu (Pearl of east). He graded it 11-/11 UIAA (French 8c+) and  thinks it is the hardest route he has ever climbed (he already did several 9a's).

The route, he climbed during last weekend, is Adam´s project from June 2007, in the left part of Lidomorna (Holstejn, Moravian Karst, 50 km northern from Brno, east of Czech Republic). It is a 25 m overhanging route between the routes Hradni spara (8a+) and Kostej nesmrtelny (8c/c+). The new line follows the natural structure of the limestone and in the upper part it for a while joins with the named route Hradni spara, but it doesn't use the same bolts.  The classification 11-/11 UIAA (8c+) is only suggestion, the feeling is depending on the weather, which was very good last weekend. Maybe Tomas Mrazek or Martin Stranik  or somebody else will suggest different a classification...
Adam considers the route as the one of the most beautiful he has done– very endurance climbing combined with technique passages from the beginning to the end on natural holds.
The news about the event is according the article of Eva Ondrova, Adam´s mother, who published it in the Czech version of CzechClimbing.com (www.lezec.cz).

Check out Adam´s Diary - Ondra Adam (dipsy)

4945


4925


4971


Here is also a list of the hardest routes in the Moravian Karst, colected by Adam Ondra:

 100 nejtěžších cest v Krasu - xls

The Topos of Holstejn and other Moravian Karst areas (Sloup  and Rudice) are free here on czechclimbing.com behind the hyperlink GUIDES

For keen boulderers there are for downolad some guides of boulder problems in  Holstejn and Sloup (by Adam Ondra):

 Holštejn-lidomorna

 Holštejn-Vaňousovy díry

 Sloup-starý


Tufi - Brno climbing guru bouldering in the Karst

photo by © Eva Ondrova

Lezec.cz   [edit] 20:48 18.09.2007Print 

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