www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Leonidio, Řecko
Gimme Kraft! AIR: 2. díl populární tréninkové bible pro lezce
Knižní novinky od Joty

Competitions
ČP Rock Point Boulderzávody 2017 (24.06)
SP Navi Mumbai (24.06)
SP Villars (07.07)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13766
2.Vopat 11751
3."Fido" 11750
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11450
2.Stráník 10800
3.Ondra 10728
Hory:
1.Šuraba 7979
2.Zaoral 7389
3.Skopec 6991

Results
MČR dětí a mládeže (17.06)
EPJ Rakousko (10.06)
SP Vail (09.06)

Diary
4305 lezců
633726 cest
Nové přelezy:
Přetížení 8+/9-
Přetížení 8+/9-
Linkes Tru 9+/10-
Erwin's Pr 8
Tigerente 8+/9-
Out Of Ber 10-
Zärtlicher 9+
Zappa Clim 9-
Midsommar 9-
Epita 9

Indoors
(Sky Club Brumlovka - Praha - uzavřena) - Praha 4
Zimní stadion Kopřivnice - Kopřivnice
Stěna Luh - ZŠ Vsetín Luh 1544 - Vsetín

Shops
HUDYsport - Praha 5
bart´s port - Praha 2
Husky Outdoor Shop - Plzeň

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra: 9 pitches on the 1st day in the Dawn Wall push

Adam Ondra did first 9 pitches of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite yesterday after 1st day of the push. It takes him 6 hours. Today he plans to continue from the 10th pitch.

Update:⠀ “We got up at 1:30 a.m. after only a couple hours of sleep, but a few rest days gave a feeling of actually feeling fresh. It was also pretty cold down in Camp 4 so I was hoping for some good night conditions. But the climate on El Cap is crazy. Trying not to be shaken & trying not to get myself out of a good mood, I just ignored it, laced up my shoes & started climbing.⠀ ⠀ “Pitch 1 (5.12b) is a slick slab, & I was curious about how it would feel in the dark. Fortunately it went all right. Pitch 2 (5.13a) & pitch 3 (5.13c) are both quite insecure & somewhat bold (or I cannot just place pro), but darkness might have helped me to have less fear & I did them easier than expected. Pitches 4, 5 & 6 (5.12b, 5.12d & 5.13c) went all right & soon I was under the main problem of the day—pitch 7. Even though it is all on fixed gear, it's protected only by beaks & copperheads. Not the most reliable protection, but I kept my head cool…until my foot slipped and I fell. The protection held & I lowered myself down, pulled down the rope & headed back up there. This time my foot did not slip, but I really wanted to make sure I wouldn't fall, so I was pushing with my feet onto the sidewall of the layback as hard as I could. It paid off & soon I was at the anchor.⠀ ⠀ “I almost thought the goal of the day was done—only two more pitches to go (5.13d & 5.13c). Not that I underestimated the following pitch, which is ultra sharp & ultra bouldery. I just placed my foot imprecisely and off I went into the air. I ruined my skin a bit, which started sweating a lot. I went for another try, still confident. I did the crux move, but my left hand was so sweaty that I was unable to move. For the third go, racing against the sun coming down the wall, I could not rest but gave it a try anyway. I was nervous!⠀ ⠀ “Luckily, one minute before the sun would hit me on the wall when I was at the crux, a little breeze picked up which helped to dry up the skin a little bit & I sent the pitch. I was on cloud nine & quickly finished the next pitch too.⠀ ⠀ “Hopefully it will cool down a little bit. Pitches 10-13 are on the program (5.14a, 5.13c, 5.14b & 5.13b).”⠀ ⠀ –@Adam.Ondra Photo: Heinz Zak

A photo posted by Black Diamond Equipment (@blackdiamond) on











Adam is pulling up on ropes to the BC on portaledge, in the middel of the wall: "Den je krásný ...," he sings the Czech song (The Day is beautiful):




@adam.ondra @blackdiamond #dawnwall #elcapitan #yosemite #liveclimbrepeat #blackdiamond

A photo posted by Pavel Blažek (@pavelblazek) on



sth   [edit] 12:55 15.11.2016Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Boulder Letná 2017 - MČR
 Routes:
All routes (119307)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Nose Tak 6a Saint Pancrasse
Panama 6a Saint Pancrasse
Retroboulder 5C Valova Skála
Bauchnabel 6 Kreuzfelsen
Simsalabim VIIb Labák - Pravý Břeh
Latest comments:
Zappa Climb 9- Frankenjura
User Charly 7- Frankenjura
Obklepaná 8 Ludvíkov
? 7+ Osvětimanské Skály
Z Cesta V Ostrov

 New in discussion:
Re: Sport Climbing in Srbsko | Sport Climbing in Srbsko | looking for climber | Partner in Brno | Looking for climbers for a student shoot | Re: drytooling in CZ | Bouldering and sport climbing partner | looking for partner in Olomouc | Re: Looking for partners | Looking for partners |

 Latest comments:
Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava |

 Hot:
Srbsko: Prague Sport Climbing (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |



Cestovní pojištění objednejte na Srovnejto.cz.
Mají přímo sekci cestovní pojištění na hory.
 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
 - NEWSFLASH: Britain's First 9b by Steve McClure
 - NEWS: Nathan Phillips flashes Font 8B
 - NEWS: Alex Honnold free solos Freerider, El Capitan
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Free Climbing on Baffin Island
 - NEWS: Requiem E8 6b by Peter Kamitses
 - NEWS: Hard boulders in South Africa for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
 - NEWS: Dead Meadow, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
 - NEWS: New Aiguille du Midi Mixed Route by Jeff Mercier & Co
 - NEWS: Orrin Coley climbs new 8B+ at Forest Rock
 - NEWS: Marcus Scotney & Carol Morgan Win Berghaus Dragon's Back Race
 - NEWS: David Fitzgerald - Voyager Sit 8B+
 - NEWS: Bronze for Emily Phillips in European Youth Cup (B)
 - Carinthian Dreams, 3rd ~8C in 11 days by Christof Rauch
 - The Big Issue E9 6c by Ali Kennedy
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.