www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Nový boulder průvodce po Moravském krasu pokřtěn
Prachovské skály - vyšel nový lezecký průvodce
Sport climbing in Arco - nový průvodce na skalky v Arcu

Competitions
ZRUŠENO - Mistrovství ČR bouldering (16.06)
EP mládeže Bruneck (16.06)
Akademické MS Bratislava (20.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
35.Brajer 10072
36.Slezák 10062
37.Nosek 10050
Bouldry:
35.Jurča 8906
36.Polčin 8875
37.Bureš 8850
Hory:
19.Hlaváč 2760
20. 2691
21.Paděra 2557

Results
SP Vail (08.06)
EP mládeže Delft (02.06)
ME mládeže Imst (25.05)

Diary
4478 lezců
691985 cest
Nové přelezy:
Kain Und A 9
Caveman 9+
Boomerang 9
Total Brut Xa
Anakonda 7C
Krieg Und 9-
Libero 9-
Obsidián 9+/10-
Hakuma Mat 9
Esotheric 9+/10-

Indoors
Česká beseda - tělocvična TJ Sokol Bělá - Děčín X
Eliass - Ostrava
LSD - Lezecká Stěna Dufek - Kuřim

Shops
Namche - Outdoor, Travel & Climbinig Center, s.r.o. - Praha 8
HUDYsport - Olomouc
HUDYsport - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Interview with Adam Ondra

Open Air, 9a+

obr_smallHere is a short interview with Adam Ondra concerning his latest send of the route Open Air, 9a+.

When you did Weisse Rose, rumors said that you were trying also Open Air. Its that true?
I tried this route for the first time this summer. And I couldn´t figure out the moves.
I was attracted by a relatively good undercling for which you have absolutely no foot holds and didn´t see some microscopic side pulls to the right. In late summer Alex advised me how to do it and immediately after sending Weisse Rose I made an inspection and was able to do all the moves. Then I put it away for a while. Time came when we had a holiday and a three day weekend. It means five days and nine tries.


obr01

Adam Ondra sending Open Air, 9a+

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba



Hardly anyone can imagine the moves to a 9a+. Could you break down the route in terms of bouldering grades and say something about the route?
The route is quite bouldery. First 25 meters is maybe 8a+ [french], than you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+ fr- to the first good hold. Above it there is a boulder passage (about 7B?) and you got the second good jug. Basically, the route starts here– a boulder problem about 8A+. Up to here it´s relatively easy climbing; you are not quite pumped but also not fresh. It doesn´t matter if the roof is 7b or 8a+, the important thing is that you have to climb 20m  hanging on your hands.
Above the crux you are rewarded by tasty and easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel. All in all: 8a+,8a+,7B,8A+, easy finish.

Do you think that with such a hard route Alex Huber was ahead of his time? Do you know how long he tried it?
Unfortunately I don´t know. I would say that he keep trying for a longer time, because from when he did Weisse Rose it took 2 years to send Open Air.

What is the difference between Alex´s Spanish and Austrian routes?
I think that there is not much difference between them. In general they are stamina routes but Open Air is an exception. The major advantage of Spain is stable weather.

Has anyone tried Open Air in the last 12 years?
Probably it´s the same case as with Weisse Rose. There were some tries but the crux probably remained unclimbed or unsolved. The route is a nice logic line so its highly unlikely that someone didn´t try it. :-) Maybe climbing itself could be little bit of a disappointment because there is this brutal boulder problem. If you compare Weisse Rose and Open Air, OA is less attractive from the climbing point of view.

At 8a.nu you said that so far it´s your hardest route that you have sent. Do you think that it could be less than your maximum if you did it within 9 tries? Do you feel some reserve?
When I was climbing this route I got the feeling that I simply can not climb any harder at that moment, on the other side, when you try it several times, your body accommodates and somehow every muscle remembers how to move, and the route gets easier. So it´s hard to say, I wouldn´t have the steadiness for long hang-dogging, if that´s what sending this route took. I let them ripen. If I would be focused on something I would be able to keep trying for a week but than I would rather abandon the route for couple month and wait to be stronger.

obr02

Schleier Wasserfal, Austria

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


You said that Weisse Rose could be 9a+. What do you think now after sending Open Air?
I would keep Weisse Rose as a hard 9a, Open Air as a regular 9a+.

Are you satisfied with your sends this year?
Yes, more than that :-)

Thank you very much Adam for a nice interview for Lezec.cz and congratulations one more time!

Author: Simona Ulmonova
Translation: Jiri Sika, Andrew Burgoon

Simona Ulmonova   [edit] 00:17 21.11.2008Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu
 Photo of the day:

Němá barikáda, 9+/10-
 Routes:
All routes (127282)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Zipi I Zape 6c Saleretes
21 6c Camarasa
L'Eperon 6c Les Eaux Claires
Xoricos 6c+ Siurana
After Party Xa Labák - Levý Břeh
Latest comments:
Cesta Sv. Vladimíra VIIa Hrubá Skála
Jerónino 7a Siurana
Cesta Sv. Vladimíra VIIa Hrubá Skála
Ďáblice IXa Drábské Světničky
Opičí Krok VIIb Tisá - Velké Stěny

 New in discussion:
Climbing partner in Prague this weekend | Re: Climbing partner in Prague | Re: Petrohrad first timer | Re: Moravske Skaly guide | Re: Climbing partner in Prague | Climbing partner in Prague | Moravske Skaly guide | Moravske Skaly guide | Moravske Skaly guide | Moravske Skaly guide |

 Latest comments:
John | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? |

 Hot:
Tom Mrazek escaped from tsunami (1)

 New in advertising:
Sperlonga Accommodation | Rock Climbing Instructor | Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing |


Cestovní pojištění
na lezecké zájezdy:

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
 - NEWSFLASH: Britain's First 9b by Steve McClure
 - NEWS: Nathan Phillips flashes Font 8B
 - NEWS: Alex Honnold free solos Freerider, El Capitan
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Free Climbing on Baffin Island
 - NEWS: Requiem E8 6b by Peter Kamitses
 - NEWS: Hard boulders in South Africa for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
 - NEWS: Dead Meadow, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
 - NEWS: New Aiguille du Midi Mixed Route by Jeff Mercier & Co
 - NEWS: Orrin Coley climbs new 8B+ at Forest Rock
 - NEWS: Marcus Scotney & Carol Morgan Win Berghaus Dragon's Back Race
 - NEWS: David Fitzgerald - Voyager Sit 8B+
 - NEWS: Bronze for Emily Phillips in European Youth Cup (B)
 - Carinthian Dreams, 3rd ~8C in 11 days by Christof Rauch
 - The Big Issue E9 6c by Ali Kennedy
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  private policy       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.