www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
Nejkrásnější cesty na písku
Koniec Pavúkov v Tatrách
Himálaj a Karakorum - Československé a České prvovýstupy

Competitions
Evropský pohár mládeže (28.05)
3. kolo Rock Point Český pohár v boulderingu 2016 (28.05)
Boulder Open Air (04.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
15.Paprsek 10708
16.Vejmolová 10699
17.Vopatová 10622
Bouldry:
15.Duchoň 9650
16.Konečný 9628
17.Chejn 9600
Hory:
30. 1816
31.Kubíček 1813
32.Homolka 1810

Results
3. ČP a ČPM 2016 (21.05)
SP Innsbruck 2016 (20.05)
SP Navi Mumbai 2016 (14.05)

Diary
4079 lezců
572646 cest
Nové přelezy:
Rychlá Smr 10-
Krátká Kře 9+
Silovka 7C+
Kalymnostr 8a
Totenbrett 9+
Mr. Freece 9-
Käpt´n Igl 9
Zufallstre 9
Höhlenpfei 9
Neues Land 9-/9

Indoors
Prysk - Prysk
TJ Jiskra - Nový Bor
Tendon Blok - lezecké centrum - Ostrava

Shops
HUDYsport - Ústí nad Labem
HUDYsport - Ostrava
Rock Point - NC Šestka - Praha 6 - Ruzyně

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Weisse Rose 9a

Adam Ondra

obr_smallAdam made the 2nd ascent of Alexander Hubers Weisse Rose, 9a, at the Austrian Schleier Wasserfall. We made a short interview, with him about the send.

This summer Adam Ondra visited the well-known area Schleier Wasserfall  four times. He abandoned his favorite area- the Northern Frankenjura- due to higher temperatures and instead chose the Wasserfalls cooler alpine climate. Besides several 8c+s and one 8b+/c On sight he finished the Huber´s route Weisse Rose 9a, which has not seen a repeat for 14 years.

We asked Adam about his feelings after he returned.

How long have you been trying Weisse Rose? 
I did just one try for the first time one gray, rainy (as usual) weekend day in July, just after I sent Black Power, 8c+ (next to Weisse Rose route). Roughly a month later I tried the route the whole day until it got completely wet. The next week I tried it 4 days- two days to realize that the route was still hopelessly wet, and two days were good for trying with afternoon´s heat limitation. On Saturday the route was dry and in the shade so I did it second try. Together 10 – 12 tries.

Weisse Rose

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


When Alex Huber did  "Weisse Rose" in 1994 he proposed 8c+ grade, then he raised grading , do you think that it´s truly 9a? 

Certainly.


Do you know, why the route hasn´t been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it´s quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.
For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don´t know about anyone who was close to do it.


So in your ranking where Weisse Rose is ranked? 
Very high:-)))

Can you describe the route and do you know anyone who has been trying it and for how many years?
The route starts- you have to climb a 20 or 25 meters long 8a+ (route White Winds), to reach the ledge where you can sit. After 30 minutes of resting you start. The route leads through a 12 m long roof like overhang, which becomes less overhanging at the end. In two third of the roof is a good jug, up to here it´s about 8b. Above it there is a sequence of ten hard moves which leads you to the end of the roof where the hardest boulder is. You have to take a rounded undercling and make a very long reach to get a better sloper.  I realized that finally the route is just about this move. Above this dyno the route is already easier but you have to take care and place your feet carefully to overcome 8m long slightly overhanging wall. While rappelling down you are cooled by the nearby waterfall.
As far as I know the route was tried by Markus Bendler, who did all moves but hasn´t made a sharp try.

For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don nott know about it.

Do you know, why the route has not been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it is quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.


Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


Do you think that Huber put harder classification then some Spanish first accents?
I got to chat with Alex Huber in the summer. I told him that I thought that it’s even harder than La Rambla (9a+). He put up this route and when he climbed at the end of the crux he ended the route cause he thought that going further is not possible. He graded it as 8c+.
Nowadays the 9a+ traverses from this point one meter right and going up doesn’t contribute more difficulties to it. (I think maybe just an half of the grade, if you use the jug for rest). In the same year (1994) as La Rambla  he did also the Weisse Rose. “Roses he graded as a 8c+, lately he realized that its harder and put a  9a grade. Rumors say that Weisse Rose is harder than "his" original La Rambla. And because the extension is just half grade harder for me it means that Weisse Rose is also harder.
Spain just gave La Rambla the 9a+ grade and they rather did not mention the shorter Huber s version. Its so hard to compare.:-)))

Thanks for the Interview and once again congratulations on the send and winning the SALEWA ROCK AWARD.

Few days before he did "Weisse Rose", Adam sent in Arco the route "St. Anger" 8c+/9a. Second ascent after Andreas Bindhammer.

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon

Diary of Adam


Source:
Adam Ondra, Eva Ondra, Lezec.cz

Translated by JirkaS and Andy

Simona   [edit] 16:37 17.09.2008Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Solarium, Frankenjura
Desperado, 10-
 Routes:
All routes (110005)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Eisen-Peter 4 Frankenjura
Kreuzwegriss 5 Frankenjura
Hessenschau 5 Frankenjura
Jižní Stěna V Prachov
Východní Cesta III Prachov
Latest comments:
Východní Cesta III Prachov
Pampi Jumbo IXc Drábské Světničky
Děti Revoluce 5A Bor
En Depit Du Bon Sens 8c St. Leger Du Ventoux
En Depit Du Bon Sens 8c St. Leger Du Ventoux

 New in discussion:
Bouldering Petrohrad May | Climbing partner Prague | drytooling in CZ | Re: Climbing in Petrohrad | Climbing in Petrohrad | Looking for new friends, travel and sport buddies | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for climbing partner in Brno | Mr. |

 Latest comments:
montblanc Meister | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Newbie at Czech Climbing? Start Here! (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - L'avaro, 8c+, by Julia Chanourdie
 - Fourth Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Innsbruck
 - First 'School Uniform Ascent' of Raindogs 8a?
 - NEWSFLASH: McHaffie and Pasquill onsight The Great Escape E8
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Safety Last!
 - UKC/UKH Readership Survey 2016 - Big Prizes!
 - ASBO Climb Newcastle 2016: Report
 - New E9 7a for McHaffie on Dinas Mot - Dark Religion
 - VIDEOS: Mallorcan Dreams + More from Chris Sharma
 - VIDEO: Alex Megos - Uppsala bouldering
 - IFSC Boulder World Cup Navi Mumbai: Report
 - NEWSFLASH: El Nińo for Cook and Phillips
 - Nicky Spinks Breaks Double Bob Graham Record
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Alex Puccio's Road to Recovery
 - 8b/+ in a Day for Lucy Mitchell
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.