www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
SBOHEM SEDMIKRÁSKY
Padající hvězda
Jiří Taxis Svoboda - PAMĚTI

Competitions
Slovácké OUPN 2015 (31.01)
VHS OPEN 2015 (14.02)
YTONG INJURY (14.02)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13635
2."Fido" 11694
3.Jungling 11466
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11250
2.Stráník 10550
3.Jungling 10500
Hory:
1.Coubal 7732
2.Harašta 6270
3.Skopec 5870

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3805 lezců
496769 cest
Nové přelezy:
Living The 5.12d
Talibania 8a
Lourdes 8a
Siempre Fu 7c
Honk Down 7c
Dekompreso 7C
Black And 7C+
Nina 7a+
Mrtvaški P 8b
Nicola La 7c

Indoors
SAUNA - Plzeň
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň

Shops
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Weisse Rose 9a

Adam Ondra

obr_smallAdam made the 2nd ascent of Alexander Hubers Weisse Rose, 9a, at the Austrian Schleier Wasserfall. We made a short interview, with him about the send.

This summer Adam Ondra visited the well-known area Schleier Wasserfall  four times. He abandoned his favorite area- the Northern Frankenjura- due to higher temperatures and instead chose the Wasserfalls cooler alpine climate. Besides several 8c+s and one 8b+/c On sight he finished the Huber´s route Weisse Rose 9a, which has not seen a repeat for 14 years.

We asked Adam about his feelings after he returned.

How long have you been trying Weisse Rose? 
I did just one try for the first time one gray, rainy (as usual) weekend day in July, just after I sent Black Power, 8c+ (next to Weisse Rose route). Roughly a month later I tried the route the whole day until it got completely wet. The next week I tried it 4 days- two days to realize that the route was still hopelessly wet, and two days were good for trying with afternoon´s heat limitation. On Saturday the route was dry and in the shade so I did it second try. Together 10 – 12 tries.

Weisse Rose

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


When Alex Huber did  "Weisse Rose" in 1994 he proposed 8c+ grade, then he raised grading , do you think that it´s truly 9a? 

Certainly.


Do you know, why the route hasn´t been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it´s quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.
For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don´t know about anyone who was close to do it.


So in your ranking where Weisse Rose is ranked? 
Very high:-)))

Can you describe the route and do you know anyone who has been trying it and for how many years?
The route starts- you have to climb a 20 or 25 meters long 8a+ (route White Winds), to reach the ledge where you can sit. After 30 minutes of resting you start. The route leads through a 12 m long roof like overhang, which becomes less overhanging at the end. In two third of the roof is a good jug, up to here it´s about 8b. Above it there is a sequence of ten hard moves which leads you to the end of the roof where the hardest boulder is. You have to take a rounded undercling and make a very long reach to get a better sloper.  I realized that finally the route is just about this move. Above this dyno the route is already easier but you have to take care and place your feet carefully to overcome 8m long slightly overhanging wall. While rappelling down you are cooled by the nearby waterfall.
As far as I know the route was tried by Markus Bendler, who did all moves but hasn´t made a sharp try.

For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don nott know about it.

Do you know, why the route has not been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it is quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.


Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


Do you think that Huber put harder classification then some Spanish first accents?
I got to chat with Alex Huber in the summer. I told him that I thought that it’s even harder than La Rambla (9a+). He put up this route and when he climbed at the end of the crux he ended the route cause he thought that going further is not possible. He graded it as 8c+.
Nowadays the 9a+ traverses from this point one meter right and going up doesn’t contribute more difficulties to it. (I think maybe just an half of the grade, if you use the jug for rest). In the same year (1994) as La Rambla  he did also the Weisse Rose. “Roses he graded as a 8c+, lately he realized that its harder and put a  9a grade. Rumors say that Weisse Rose is harder than "his" original La Rambla. And because the extension is just half grade harder for me it means that Weisse Rose is also harder.
Spain just gave La Rambla the 9a+ grade and they rather did not mention the shorter Huber s version. Its so hard to compare.:-)))

Thanks for the Interview and once again congratulations on the send and winning the SALEWA ROCK AWARD.

Few days before he did "Weisse Rose", Adam sent in Arco the route "St. Anger" 8c+/9a. Second ascent after Andreas Bindhammer.

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon

Diary of Adam


Source:
Adam Ondra, Eva Ondra, Lezec.cz

Translated by JirkaS and Andy

Simona   [edit] 16:37 17.09.2008Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

Rondo, 5+
 Routes:
All routes (99893)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Living The Dream 5.12d Echo Canyon
Příliv 6A+ Skály U Kutné Hory A Malešova
Banaba 6B+ Skály U Kutné Hory A Malešova
Vodní Traverz 6C Skály U Kutné Hory A Malešova
Hedera 6B Skály U Kutné Hory A Malešova
Latest comments:
Levá Svíčková 6A+ Labák - Pravý Břeh
Ďáblík 8-/8 Kotek
Steinerweg 5- Dachstein
Steinerweg 5- Dachstein
Ďáblík 8-/8 Kotek

 New in discussion:
Looking for new friends! | Climbing in Czech Republic | Climbing in Czech Republic | Re: Looking for a long lost friend! | Looking for a long lost friend! | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Re: Climbing in Ostrava | Bouldering Prague Area | shoes left | Cesky Raj climbing |

 Latest comments:
John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? | brava | Dani s lecture will be later |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (1)

 New in advertising:
Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - VIDEO: Nicolas Favresse climbs Recovery Drink, HARD crack, Jřssingfjord, Norway
 - Insanity of grandeur, ~8C, by Martin Keller
 - Anna Wells: 11th place in Saas Fee Ice Climbing World Cup
 - [UPDATED with comments]Alex Megos climbs Lucid Dreaming, ~8C
 - INTERVIEW: Dave Macleod's book Make or Break released
 - Kintsugi, ~8C, by Nalle Hukkataival
 - Range War X/10 for Boswell and Robertson
 - [UPDATED]Fabian Buhl repeats PsychoGramm, ~8b+ trad
 - FRI NIGHT VID - A Profile of Ned Feehally
 - NEWSFLASH: X/10 onsight FA (again!) for Greg Boswell
 - Snowdon: Be prepared for winter
 - VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell climbs Pitch 15, Dawn Wall
 - The Greatest Show on Earth: New X/10 for Boswell and Robertson
 - VIDEO: Nacho Sánchez climbs Crisis, ~8C/+, Crevillente, Spain
 - VIDEO: 7A by Philippe Ribičre
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.