Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route


Himálaj a Karakorum - Československé a České prvovýstupy
Bayerische Alpen
Pavel Lisák: Vysoká hra

Písecký Pavouk (29.11)
FLASH DANCE 2015 - 3.kolo (02.12)
3.kolo Makak boulderového kolotoče (04.12)

1.Ondra 13394
2."Fido" 11800
3.Konečný 11587
1.Stráník 11375
2.Ondra 10965
3.Jungling 10775
1.Coubal 7713
2.Nikita 7036
3.Šuraba 6579

European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

4010 lezců
551725 cest
Nové přelezy:
Bílý Trave 7C
Šluk 7C+
Black And 7C+
El Brutamo 7b
Bujará Sob 8A
Doctor Zoi 7B+
Dizdira 7C
The Wire 7C
Zarzamora 8A
Pinot 7c

Rock 'n' Wall - Plzeň
Boulder Bar - Praha 7
SAUNA - Plzeň

Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Poříčí - Praha 1
Rock Point OC Olympia - Brno
Lezec-shop.cz - Štěchovice


Weisse Rose 9a

Adam Ondra

obr_smallAdam made the 2nd ascent of Alexander Hubers Weisse Rose, 9a, at the Austrian Schleier Wasserfall. We made a short interview, with him about the send.

This summer Adam Ondra visited the well-known area Schleier Wasserfall  four times. He abandoned his favorite area- the Northern Frankenjura- due to higher temperatures and instead chose the Wasserfalls cooler alpine climate. Besides several 8c+s and one 8b+/c On sight he finished the Huber´s route Weisse Rose 9a, which has not seen a repeat for 14 years.

We asked Adam about his feelings after he returned.

How long have you been trying Weisse Rose? 
I did just one try for the first time one gray, rainy (as usual) weekend day in July, just after I sent Black Power, 8c+ (next to Weisse Rose route). Roughly a month later I tried the route the whole day until it got completely wet. The next week I tried it 4 days- two days to realize that the route was still hopelessly wet, and two days were good for trying with afternoon´s heat limitation. On Saturday the route was dry and in the shade so I did it second try. Together 10 – 12 tries.

Weisse Rose

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl

When Alex Huber did  "Weisse Rose" in 1994 he proposed 8c+ grade, then he raised grading , do you think that it´s truly 9a? 


Do you know, why the route hasn´t been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it´s quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.
For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don´t know about anyone who was close to do it.

So in your ranking where Weisse Rose is ranked? 
Very high:-)))

Can you describe the route and do you know anyone who has been trying it and for how many years?
The route starts- you have to climb a 20 or 25 meters long 8a+ (route White Winds), to reach the ledge where you can sit. After 30 minutes of resting you start. The route leads through a 12 m long roof like overhang, which becomes less overhanging at the end. In two third of the roof is a good jug, up to here it´s about 8b. Above it there is a sequence of ten hard moves which leads you to the end of the roof where the hardest boulder is. You have to take a rounded undercling and make a very long reach to get a better sloper.  I realized that finally the route is just about this move. Above this dyno the route is already easier but you have to take care and place your feet carefully to overcome 8m long slightly overhanging wall. While rappelling down you are cooled by the nearby waterfall.
As far as I know the route was tried by Markus Bendler, who did all moves but hasn´t made a sharp try.

For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don nott know about it.

Do you know, why the route has not been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it is quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl

Do you think that Huber put harder classification then some Spanish first accents?
I got to chat with Alex Huber in the summer. I told him that I thought that it’s even harder than La Rambla (9a+). He put up this route and when he climbed at the end of the crux he ended the route cause he thought that going further is not possible. He graded it as 8c+.
Nowadays the 9a+ traverses from this point one meter right and going up doesn’t contribute more difficulties to it. (I think maybe just an half of the grade, if you use the jug for rest). In the same year (1994) as La Rambla  he did also the Weisse Rose. “Roses he graded as a 8c+, lately he realized that its harder and put a  9a grade. Rumors say that Weisse Rose is harder than "his" original La Rambla. And because the extension is just half grade harder for me it means that Weisse Rose is also harder.
Spain just gave La Rambla the 9a+ grade and they rather did not mention the shorter Huber s version. Its so hard to compare.:-)))

Thanks for the Interview and once again congratulations on the send and winning the SALEWA ROCK AWARD.

Few days before he did "Weisse Rose", Adam sent in Arco the route "St. Anger" 8c+/9a. Second ascent after Andreas Bindhammer.

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon

Diary of Adam

Adam Ondra, Eva Ondra, Lezec.cz

Translated by JirkaS and Andy

Simona   [edit] 16:37 17.09.2008Print 


Related stories:


...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Sierra Nevada
Half Dome 2695 m
All routes (107559)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Feeling Lucky Punk? 7b Paynes Ford
Why Would You Waved At A ... 7a+ Paynes Ford
Spotty Britt 7a Paynes Ford
Palpa Pulpo Palpa 6a+ Chulilla
Delirios Tremen L1,L2,L3 6b+ Chulilla
Latest comments:
NES 2 7B+/7C Bechyně
Full House 7c Krkavka
La Mia 7b Margalef
Raki On The Rocks 9+/10- Geyikbayiri
Conflicto Territorial 7a+ Chulilla

 New in discussion:
Re: Mr. | Looking for climbing partner in Brno | Mr. | Ostry Stit - lost Cam Bd C3 yellow (motykova cesta) | Climbing community | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Climbing friends for may | Re: Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for new friends! |

 Latest comments:
Contact Us : replica omega watches, wintercanadagoose.com | Moncler Vest Men Sleeveless Black White Stripe - $166.00 : Cheap | John | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? |

Festak 2011 (1)
Lynn Hill in Prague (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |

 UKClimbing.com News
 - NEWSFLASH: Boswell and Bullock Survive Grizzly Bear Attack
 - VIDEO: Niky Ceria on Voyager sit start
 - Plywood Masters 2015 - Report
 - LaSpo Legends Only 2015, Janja Garnbret's big breakthrough
 - 2016 GB Climbing Teams Announced
 - VIDEO: Jain Kim on the Rocks
 - Demencia senil, 9a+, 2,5f go by Alex Megos
 - VIDEO: La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Climb Ride
 - Berry Hits The Big Time! UKC Staff In The Papers
 - The Island 8B+ for Ned Feehally
 - Terre de Sienne, ~8B/+, by Ashima Shiraishi
 - El Nińo Freed by Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl
 - Kendal Mountain Festival 2015: Report
 - Histerija, 8c+, by Mina Markovic
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.