www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route

Search

Books
MacLeodova nová kniha Make or break
In memoriam z horolezeckých deníků předsedy ČHS Zdeňka Hrubého
Vltavská žula

Competitions
MAJSTER SLNEČNÝCH HODÍN (27.06)
FLASH OPEN OLOMOUC (27.06)
Flash Open Olomouc - JUNIOR (28.06)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13309
2."Fido" 11644
3.Romanovský 11219
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11300
2.Jungling 10625
3.Stráník 10625
Hory:
1.Coubal 7732
2.Skopec 7063
3.Harašta 6220

Results
European Youth Cup, ITA (11.08)
World Cup, Imst (AUT) (10.08)
European Youth Cup (04.08)

Diary
3920 lezců
523359 cest
Nové přelezy:
Královna O 7C
Idefix 8A+
Dýmějový M 8A+
Palmala 7C+
Panoramix 8A
Mátový Sau 7C
Alfabetix 7C
Elysion 9
Všade Je V 9
Lapinerie 7b

Indoors
Orel Břeclav - Břeclav
KLAJDA - lezecké centrum Brno - Brno - Maloměřice
Boulder centrum VUT v Brně - Brno

Shops
Keen Concept Store - Palác Flóra - Praha 3
Husky Outdoor Shop - Plzeň
Ing. Jan Zavadil - PROFITSPORT - Plzeň

Contact
REDAKCE:
martanlezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
andrewlezec.cz

Weisse Rose 9a

Adam Ondra

obr_smallAdam made the 2nd ascent of Alexander Hubers Weisse Rose, 9a, at the Austrian Schleier Wasserfall. We made a short interview, with him about the send.

This summer Adam Ondra visited the well-known area Schleier Wasserfall  four times. He abandoned his favorite area- the Northern Frankenjura- due to higher temperatures and instead chose the Wasserfalls cooler alpine climate. Besides several 8c+s and one 8b+/c On sight he finished the Huber´s route Weisse Rose 9a, which has not seen a repeat for 14 years.

We asked Adam about his feelings after he returned.

How long have you been trying Weisse Rose? 
I did just one try for the first time one gray, rainy (as usual) weekend day in July, just after I sent Black Power, 8c+ (next to Weisse Rose route). Roughly a month later I tried the route the whole day until it got completely wet. The next week I tried it 4 days- two days to realize that the route was still hopelessly wet, and two days were good for trying with afternoon´s heat limitation. On Saturday the route was dry and in the shade so I did it second try. Together 10 – 12 tries.

Weisse Rose

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


When Alex Huber did  "Weisse Rose" in 1994 he proposed 8c+ grade, then he raised grading , do you think that it´s truly 9a? 

Certainly.


Do you know, why the route hasn´t been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it´s quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.
For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don´t know about anyone who was close to do it.


So in your ranking where Weisse Rose is ranked? 
Very high:-)))

Can you describe the route and do you know anyone who has been trying it and for how many years?
The route starts- you have to climb a 20 or 25 meters long 8a+ (route White Winds), to reach the ledge where you can sit. After 30 minutes of resting you start. The route leads through a 12 m long roof like overhang, which becomes less overhanging at the end. In two third of the roof is a good jug, up to here it´s about 8b. Above it there is a sequence of ten hard moves which leads you to the end of the roof where the hardest boulder is. You have to take a rounded undercling and make a very long reach to get a better sloper.  I realized that finally the route is just about this move. Above this dyno the route is already easier but you have to take care and place your feet carefully to overcome 8m long slightly overhanging wall. While rappelling down you are cooled by the nearby waterfall.
As far as I know the route was tried by Markus Bendler, who did all moves but hasn´t made a sharp try.

For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don nott know about it.

Do you know, why the route has not been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it is quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.


Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl


Do you think that Huber put harder classification then some Spanish first accents?
I got to chat with Alex Huber in the summer. I told him that I thought that it’s even harder than La Rambla (9a+). He put up this route and when he climbed at the end of the crux he ended the route cause he thought that going further is not possible. He graded it as 8c+.
Nowadays the 9a+ traverses from this point one meter right and going up doesn’t contribute more difficulties to it. (I think maybe just an half of the grade, if you use the jug for rest). In the same year (1994) as La Rambla  he did also the Weisse Rose. “Roses he graded as a 8c+, lately he realized that its harder and put a  9a grade. Rumors say that Weisse Rose is harder than "his" original La Rambla. And because the extension is just half grade harder for me it means that Weisse Rose is also harder.
Spain just gave La Rambla the 9a+ grade and they rather did not mention the shorter Huber s version. Its so hard to compare.:-)))

Thanks for the Interview and once again congratulations on the send and winning the SALEWA ROCK AWARD.

Few days before he did "Weisse Rose", Adam sent in Arco the route "St. Anger" 8c+/9a. Second ascent after Andreas Bindhammer.

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon

Diary of Adam


Source:
Adam Ondra, Eva Ondra, Lezec.cz

Translated by JirkaS and Andy

Simona   [edit] 16:37 17.09.2008Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:

 Routes:
All routes (103299)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Normální Cesta III Drábovna
Bezva Finta - Varianta 6+ Křižany
Jižní Hrana 3 Břestecká Skála
Jen Pro Bílé VIIIc Ostrov
Ráfek - Var. RAF 6- Bílá Skála
Latest comments:
Red Bull 8+/9- Porúbka
Krasnecov Komin 7- Porúbka
První Jarní 6C+ Labák - Pravý Břeh
Východní Stěna 6- Sloup
Východní Stěna 6- Sloup

 New in discussion:
Nike Air Max 90 Sneakerboot Sale | omega watches replica | Cartier - Roadster W62016V3 Petit Modele watch - $177.00 : repli | Mr. | Ostry Stit - lost Cam Bd C3 yellow (motykova cesta) | Climbing community | Moving to Ceske Budejovice | Climbing friends for may | Re: Looking for climbing/hiking friends | Looking for climbing/hiking friends |

 Latest comments:
Patek Philippe Watches : Replica Watches Factory Online Store Uf | Christian Louboutin Denim Rollerball Spikes Flats Navy - $178.00 | pandora outlet shops | Pandora Flowers Beads - Pandora Charms Sale | tiffany bracelets silver | Discount Nike Roshe Run Mango Sunset Exclusive Trainers Mens HV2 | Mens Watches | Tiffany & Co | Tiffany and Co Jewelry On Sale | Tiffany & Co 1837 Cuff Bangle - $59.00 : cheap tiffany Jewel | tag heuer online |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra sends La novena enmienda, 9a+ (6)
Newbie at Czech Climbing? Start Here! (4)
New York Times video: Czech Towers Jumping (4)
Adam Ondra continues in hard sends in Deverse, south France (3)
Adam Ondra sends hard multi-pitch routes in the Alps (3)
Adam's new hard route (3)
How does Adam Ondra send 9a+ in Spain (2)
Adam sends Change 9b+ (2)
VIDEO: Adam Ondra sends Action Directe (2)
The Girls Only Slackline Festival (1)

 New in advertising:
Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Dan 'Dark Horse' Mcmanus
 - Ricky Bell: New Northern Irish E9 and E8
 - Junior British Bouldering Cup and Championships: Overall Results
 - IFSC Boulder World Cup Haiyang: Another Bronze for Coxsey
 - Heart Route Goes Free on El Capitan
 - VIDEO: Sachi Amma in Spain
 - Monkey Wedding, ~8C, by Nacho Sanchez
 - VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist climbs Le Cadre Nouvelle version, 9a
 - FRI NIGHT VID: El Cap in Google Street View!
 - Another Great New Sport Crag in Leonidio - Greece
 - PODCAST: Nalle Hukkataival
 - Nordic Flower, ~8c/+, 2nd go by Ashima
 - Pete Whittaker Onsights E7/8 with Gaffa-Tape and Blu-Tack
 - 8b Alpine Rock Free Ascent in Mont Blanc Massif for Lachat and Dugit
 - Nuthin' but sunshine, ~8B, by Isabelle Faus
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*       ceník reklamy IQ house   NetPro systems, s.r.o.