Registration   |   Look at the tips and advices on the HowTravelCheap.com!
Find a route


Prachovské skály - vyšel nový lezecký průvodce
Sport climbing in Arco - nový průvodce na skalky v Arcu
The Push: příběh Tommyho Caldwella

LezeTop Boulder Cup (17.03)
Flash Wall Cup 2018 - ČP U14 (17.03)
Zlatá lezečka pohár všestranného lezce (23.03)

1.Ondra 13978
2.Konečný 11843
3.Pail 11650
1.Stráník 11575
2.Ondra 11450
3.Jungling 11025
1.Coubal 6441
2.Šuraba 6358
3.Nikita 6157

MČR v ledolezení na rychlost – Vírský cepín 2018 (10.03)
SP a ME ledolezení (02.03)
SP ledolezení Jižní Korea (09.02)

4399 lezců
670337 cest
Nové přelezy:
Shiva86 8A+
Don Corleo 7C
Patiasso A 8a
Vzpomínka 7C
Übermensch 8A
Bottom Up 8A
Medusa 7b+
My Bush Is 7c
Le Lot De 7C
Divine Déc 7C

Boulder centrum VUT v Brně - Brno
Lezecká stěna Kralupy - Kralupy nad Vltavou
Bouldering za oponou - Měnín

Luna Rossa - lezecké chyty a stěny - Děčín
Green sport s.r.o. - Uherské Hradiště
HUDYsport - Plzeň


Weisse Rose 9a

Adam Ondra

obr_smallAdam made the 2nd ascent of Alexander Hubers Weisse Rose, 9a, at the Austrian Schleier Wasserfall. We made a short interview, with him about the send.

This summer Adam Ondra visited the well-known area Schleier Wasserfall  four times. He abandoned his favorite area- the Northern Frankenjura- due to higher temperatures and instead chose the Wasserfalls cooler alpine climate. Besides several 8c+s and one 8b+/c On sight he finished the Huber´s route Weisse Rose 9a, which has not seen a repeat for 14 years.

We asked Adam about his feelings after he returned.

How long have you been trying Weisse Rose? 
I did just one try for the first time one gray, rainy (as usual) weekend day in July, just after I sent Black Power, 8c+ (next to Weisse Rose route). Roughly a month later I tried the route the whole day until it got completely wet. The next week I tried it 4 days- two days to realize that the route was still hopelessly wet, and two days were good for trying with afternoon´s heat limitation. On Saturday the route was dry and in the shade so I did it second try. Together 10 – 12 tries.

Weisse Rose

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl

When Alex Huber did  "Weisse Rose" in 1994 he proposed 8c+ grade, then he raised grading , do you think that it´s truly 9a? 


Do you know, why the route hasn´t been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it´s quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.
For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don´t know about anyone who was close to do it.

So in your ranking where Weisse Rose is ranked? 
Very high:-)))

Can you describe the route and do you know anyone who has been trying it and for how many years?
The route starts- you have to climb a 20 or 25 meters long 8a+ (route White Winds), to reach the ledge where you can sit. After 30 minutes of resting you start. The route leads through a 12 m long roof like overhang, which becomes less overhanging at the end. In two third of the roof is a good jug, up to here it´s about 8b. Above it there is a sequence of ten hard moves which leads you to the end of the roof where the hardest boulder is. You have to take a rounded undercling and make a very long reach to get a better sloper.  I realized that finally the route is just about this move. Above this dyno the route is already easier but you have to take care and place your feet carefully to overcome 8m long slightly overhanging wall. While rappelling down you are cooled by the nearby waterfall.
As far as I know the route was tried by Markus Bendler, who did all moves but hasn´t made a sharp try.

For sure the route was tried by someone else but I don nott know about it.

Do you know, why the route has not been repeated for such a long time?
I think because it is quite hard 9a and secondly you are psyched when you have to repeat the lower part then resting half an hour all the time after falling from the very top. And finally because there is always rain. Apart from that it is a visually fantastic and perfect line.

Adam Ondra- Weisse Rose 9a-Schleier Wasserfall

photo by Michael Meisl

Do you think that Huber put harder classification then some Spanish first accents?
I got to chat with Alex Huber in the summer. I told him that I thought that it’s even harder than La Rambla (9a+). He put up this route and when he climbed at the end of the crux he ended the route cause he thought that going further is not possible. He graded it as 8c+.
Nowadays the 9a+ traverses from this point one meter right and going up doesn’t contribute more difficulties to it. (I think maybe just an half of the grade, if you use the jug for rest). In the same year (1994) as La Rambla  he did also the Weisse Rose. “Roses he graded as a 8c+, lately he realized that its harder and put a  9a grade. Rumors say that Weisse Rose is harder than "his" original La Rambla. And because the extension is just half grade harder for me it means that Weisse Rose is also harder.
Spain just gave La Rambla the 9a+ grade and they rather did not mention the shorter Huber s version. Its so hard to compare.:-)))

Thanks for the Interview and once again congratulations on the send and winning the SALEWA ROCK AWARD.

Few days before he did "Weisse Rose", Adam sent in Arco the route "St. Anger" 8c+/9a. Second ascent after Andreas Bindhammer.

Sponsors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon

Diary of Adam

Adam Ondra, Eva Ondra, Lezec.cz

Translated by JirkaS and Andy

Simona   [edit] 16:37 17.09.2008Print 


Related stories:


...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

Fasádní Servis
Fasádní Servis® hledá spolupracovníky do týmu pro Čechy a Moravu.

 Photo of the day:

All routes (124997)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Shiva86 8A+ Hohnstein
Dead Space 6C Tisá - Modřín
Vzpomínka Na Fontáč 7C Bahratal
Übermensch 8A Bahratal
Crypton 7a+ Crypton Cave
Latest comments:
Nejde O Čísla 5+ Hlubočepské Plotny
Vlk Bel Tu 6B+ Seníky
Další Varianta 6B Seníky
Satisfakce Xc Panteon
Satisfakce Xc Panteon

 New in discussion:
partner to climb | Indoor climbing/bouldering in Brno | Re: Partner in Brno | Partner in Prague | Petrohrad first timer | Re: Sport Climbing in Srbsko | Sport Climbing in Srbsko | looking for climber | Partner in Brno | Looking for climbers for a student shoot |

 Latest comments:
Roger Vivier Belle Vivier Pumps In Patent Leather Black [b992] - | John | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? |

Newbie at Czech Climbing? Start Here! (1)

 New in advertising:
Sperlonga Accommodation | Rock Climbing Instructor | Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing |

Cestovní pojištění
na lezecké zájezdy:

Climbing map

 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
 - NEWSFLASH: Britain's First 9b by Steve McClure
 - NEWS: Nathan Phillips flashes Font 8B
 - NEWS: Alex Honnold free solos Freerider, El Capitan
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Free Climbing on Baffin Island
 - NEWS: Requiem E8 6b by Peter Kamitses
 - NEWS: Hard boulders in South Africa for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
 - NEWS: Dead Meadow, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
 - NEWS: New Aiguille du Midi Mixed Route by Jeff Mercier & Co
 - NEWS: Orrin Coley climbs new 8B+ at Forest Rock
 - NEWS: Marcus Scotney & Carol Morgan Win Berghaus Dragon's Back Race
 - NEWS: David Fitzgerald - Voyager Sit 8B+
 - NEWS: Bronze for Emily Phillips in European Youth Cup (B)
 - Carinthian Dreams, 3rd ~8C in 11 days by Christof Rauch
 - The Big Issue E9 6c by Ali Kennedy
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.