www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Prachovské skály - vyšel nový lezecký průvodce
Sport climbing in Arco - nový průvodce na skalky v Arcu
The Push: příběh Tommyho Caldwella

Competitions
AIX Ádr Boulder Session 2018 (24.02)
EP ledolezení Finsko (24.02)
BigWall Open 2018 (24.02)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13978
2.Konečný 11843
3.Pail 11700
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11475
2.Ondra 11450
3.Jungling 11000
Hory:
1.Coubal 6441
2.Šuraba 6358
3.Nikita 6157

Results
SP ledolezení Jižní Korea (09.02)
Silvestrovské Hejnice (29.12)
Mistrovství ČR rychlost (16.12)

Diary
4393 lezců
668661 cest
Nové přelezy:
Los Francé 7b+
Huyendo De 7c
La Pantone 8a
Nagano 98 7C+
Ester 8A+/8B
F3000 8A
Perný Den 8B
La Realida 7b
Red Bull 7c+
Macedonia 7c+

Indoors
Lezecké centrum SmíchOFF - Praha 5
Stěny v Hejnici - Hejnice (okr. Liberec)
Stěna Černožice - Černožice nad Labem

Shops
Rock Point Plzeň Americká - Plzeň
HUDYsport - Ostrava
Outdoor Centrum Rock Point Perštýn - Praha 1

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

Adam Ondra has sent his hardest route

smallA 35metres long, extremely overhanging route - called Marina Superstar (extension of existing route Marina 8c/c+) was bolted by Matteo Marini, is situated in sector "Bronx" near Domusnovas vilage about 40kms from Cagliari.

Adam tried this project last year already. It starts as a 8b+ pitch in 45 degrees overhang, then it continues over 4 quickdraws to another chain (8c/c+) and after that, without any rests, comes a boulder problem of 7C+ Fr in nearly vertical roof to an edge of the cave. Several hard moves with heelhooks and one good resthold and comes another boulder problem on the edge of the cave - going from horizontal roof to a vertical wall. The difference between last bolt and the chain is approximately 6 metres!
Adam Ondra sent this route on Tuesday evening after 4 days of working on it. During his tries there were broken two tufas in the roof, where he could rest a bit so he had to change the sequence as well and was obliged to use wet tufa and match on it too!

před klíčovým místem

Adam in hardest spot

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


That made probably the "slash" in the grade of the route. Adam was thinking about the grade for couple of days to say the final verdict - 9a+/b.
During his stay in Sardinia he managed to make first ascents of another hard routes in sectors Bronx (Death Row 8c+) and in Ruota del Tempo (The Voice 8c+).
In the meantime he had onsinghted seven routes from 8a to 8b.

Pohled na cestu

The Cave

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


Further photos at www.climb4fun.cz

JirkaS   [edit] 10:34 27.10.2009Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

Fasádní Servis
Fasádní Servis® hledá spolupracovníky do týmu pro Čechy a Moravu.


 Photo of the day:

Walk the line, 7b+
 Routes:
All routes (124775)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Nagano 98 7C+ Tisá - Modřín
Ester 8A+/8B Tisá - Modřín
T-Rex 7C Holštejn
Jen Dva Prstíčky 6C Holštejn
Little Angel 6A+ Tábor - Lužňák
Latest comments:
Peťka 7C Pečínkova Skála
Cesta Ke Světlu 6C Tisá - Modřín
Il Mistico Senza Dio 7c+ La Gola
Joe Blau 8c+ Oliana
Evil Lurks Behind... 7c+ Custonaci

 New in discussion:
Indoor climbing/bouldering in Brno | Re: Partner in Brno | Partner in Prague | Petrohrad first timer | Re: Sport Climbing in Srbsko | Sport Climbing in Srbsko | looking for climber | Partner in Brno | Looking for climbers for a student shoot | Re: drytooling in CZ |

 Latest comments:
John | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions | Re: What about the interview? | What about the interview? |

 Hot:
Tom Mrazek escaped from tsunami (1)

 New in advertising:
Sperlonga Accommodation | Rock Climbing Instructor | Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing |



Cestovní pojištění objednejte na Srovnejto.cz.
Mají přímo sekci cestovní pojištění na hory.
 Instructions:
Climbing map

 UKClimbing.com News
 - INTERVIEW: Steve McClure on Rainman 9b
 - NEWSFLASH: Britain's First 9b by Steve McClure
 - NEWS: Nathan Phillips flashes Font 8B
 - NEWS: Alex Honnold free solos Freerider, El Capitan
 - FRI NIGHT VID: Free Climbing on Baffin Island
 - NEWS: Requiem E8 6b by Peter Kamitses
 - NEWS: Hard boulders in South Africa for Mina Leslie-Wujastyk
 - NEWS: Dead Meadow, ~8B, by Alex Puccio
 - NEWS: New Aiguille du Midi Mixed Route by Jeff Mercier & Co
 - NEWS: Orrin Coley climbs new 8B+ at Forest Rock
 - NEWS: Marcus Scotney & Carol Morgan Win Berghaus Dragon's Back Race
 - NEWS: David Fitzgerald - Voyager Sit 8B+
 - NEWS: Bronze for Emily Phillips in European Youth Cup (B)
 - Carinthian Dreams, 3rd ~8C in 11 days by Christof Rauch
 - The Big Issue E9 6c by Ali Kennedy
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.