www.CzechClimbing.com

 CZECH CLIMBING  SHOP  FORUMS  ADVERTISING  POLLS  LINKS  GUIDES  MAPS  PHOTOS  VIDEO 

 name

 psw 

 Registration   |   55.439 vistors in November
Find a route

Search

Books
Gimme Kraft! AIR: 2. díl populární tréninkové bible pro lezce
Knižní novinky od Joty
Frankenjura průvodce

Competitions
BigWall OPEN 2017 (18.02)
Adrex Ice Run (18.02)
HoroGuru Ještěrka (23.02)

Ranking
Cesty:
1.Ondra 13691
2.Vopat 11748
3."Fido" 11600
Bouldry:
1.Stráník 11375
2.Ondra 11153
3.Stráník 10825
Hory:
1.Coubal 7964
2.Šuraba 7707
3.Skopec 7586

Results
Vírský cepín 2017 (11.02)
MS mládeže v ledolezení (10.02)
MS v ledolezení (04.02)

Diary
4201 lezců
608423 cest
Nové přelezy:
VáHa 80 9
Darkie The 5.12d
Dingo 7c+
Moca De Pa 7c
Slzy Rozko 9/9+
Horká čára Xc
Osel 9
Urbanova 8a
Dolga Kava 7c
Flash Danc 7c

Indoors
Rožnov pod Radhoštěm - Rožnov pod Radhoštěm
Lezecká stěna Třináctka - Praha - Stodůlky
Újezd nad Lesy, Praha 9, Základní škola Masarykova - Praha 9, Újezd nad Lesy

Shops
HOLAN SPORT - Praha 2
HUDYsport - Olomouc
Rock Point Ostrava Avion - Ostrava jih

Contact
REDAKCE:
standalezec.cz
ŠÉFREDAKTOR:
jirkaslezec.cz
INZERCE:
standalezec.cz
IT:
hoplezec.cz

How does Adam Ondra send 9a+ in Spain

smallAdam Ondra had a successful vacation in Spain, despite that the weather didnt cooperate as much he collected several remarkable sends.

In Friday evening I am packed and waiting. Waiting for the trip with the best world climber Adam Ondra. In time.
... The driver is Adam´s mother Eva, Kubo Kovacik, Slovak young friend sit in the rear. The 14 hours long journey to  French Seynes is in front of us. From there the next destination is 450km away Oliana in Spain.

We traveled via Seynes (just a short stop) to be there just one day. It was very hot day, the temperature raised up to 38°C. Sektor Nouveau Monde Right was our target. Kubo Kovacik dried Le Dinosaure 8a+. Was still very hot, Adam was going to try two chosen routes for OnSight. The first was Les Légendes Du Gard 8b/b+ and the second Metaphysique Des Tubes 8c. All climbers from the area came to see Adams triumph ride.

By the evening we continued to Spain to brand new area Oliana.

In the morning we set out to the walk to the wall. It is superb and the bolting works on it are still on - mostly by  Dani Andrada with Chris and Victor Fernandez.

01

Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


02

Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


03

Adam in route Papichulo, 9a+

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


Adam goes  with Kubo to one worm up, quite hard 7b, and then he studies his target – Papichulo 9a+. Just from the bush smiling Chris and Daila and the other climbers come. Adam climbs the first attempt, cleans the route and clips missing quick draws. There is a fog and Spaniards heat themselves at fire place. Adam does two other tries and finishes in the crux boulder problem. Chris tries the new project Mama Chichi (perhaps  9a+) and according his words it would take more time to do it ... We look at elegant moves of Daila Ojeda in route China Crisis 8b+. As a cool down Adam does OS Project De Carles 8b+.
The next day we have plan for rest day in less known area  Perles. There is many easier routes and one photogenic 9a on the edge of big overhang. Eva climbs we others enjoy sun and relax mainly Adam who still has diarrhea for the 5th day.

04

Lucka Hrozova in route 7a

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


06

Kubo Kovacik in route Marroncita, 8b/b+

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


05

Ala in route Marroncita, 8b/b+

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


On the evening we met in Oliana with a Czech friend Ala. On morning the sky is clean and we expect a hot day. May be for that Adam does not wait and he sends Papichulo in the first try. ...
Adam in the afternoon does OS 20 meters snake Los Humildes Pa Casa 8c.

On the evening we move to the next area Santa Linya. The climbers there are in the cave around fire place. Adam goes to check the start of his next task – Directa Open Your Mind 9a/a+ - it looks dry.

07

Oliana, Spain

photo by © Eva Ondrová


08

Adam prays for better weather

photo by © Ala Rozsypal


09

Santa Linya, Spain

photo by © Vojtěch Vrzba


Morning Adams climbs classics for warm up and than the first clipping attempt. Again cleaning, trying the moves etc. Under sun the cave change in the hot malting pot. With the sunset it begins to be acceptable. So therefore Adam has three attempts for each day. Two in the morning and one in late afternoon. This scenario continues 4 days, Adam falls or in the bottom bouldery part (8c+) or slips on the 2nd part "only" for 8b+. It is quite hard because his health state is not perfect.
On Sunday Tomas Mrazek and Helena Lipenska come. The day Adam falls in the last hard move of the entire route (foot slip) and has decided we have to go AWAY! For couple days to rest from stereotype ... - Margalef...the ideal selection. I have to leave by plane to Prague.

10

Open your mind direct, 9a+ 

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


11

Open your mind direct, 9a+ 

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


12

Open your mind direct, 9a+ 

photo by © Vojtech Vrzba


„Weather worsens, it rains two days, and also snow ...  Adam falls in Margalef in the last move in 9a... we have bad luck!“
I got similar news about the conditions ... So tha last send Adam did in Spain was L´Espiadimonis 8c OS in Margalef.

The "Open your mind direct" 9a+ is still Adam´s project, and the last work was for famous „BigUp Production“ camera to repete RP send of Papichulo in Oliana. It should appear in the new film „Progression“. I look forward to it!

More:

More photo

Adams latest sends

(Short translation by CzechClimbing.com team)

Vojtech Vrzba   [edit] 14:07 23.03.2009Print 

Reklama:


Related stories:

Commentaries

     
...new commentsNew comment 

 the best world climber12:55:48 08.04.2009
Dear Author,
thank you for the information that Adam Ondra is the world best climber. I did not know that before maybe because I was so dazzled by the performance by other "good" climbers.
And if Adam would not have had this stupid diarrhoea of course he would have climbed Golpe De Estado...or maybe even onsighted.

Kind regards
marc
marcreply 
 Re: the best world climber15:51:29 16.04.2009
best world climber? maybe when he starts to bolt his own routes...
kyussreply 

Lezec.cz je hlavním mediálním partnerem ČHS na internetu

 Instructions:
Climbing map

 Photo of the day:
Bouřlivá spára VII, Zapomenutá věž, Adršpach, leze Máťa
Bouřlivá spára VII
 Routes:
All routes (115898)
Top routes in CR
Top boulders in CR
Latest routes
Le Minimum 4+ Bielovodská Dolina
VáHa 80 9 Hlubočepské Plotny
Bear Mountain Picnic 5.8 Foster Falls
Mammy 5.9 Foster Falls
Diamond Cutter 5.10c Foster Falls
Latest comments:
Jednocuková 9 Lom V Komíně
Jednocuková 9 Lom V Komíně
Jednocuková 9 Lom V Komíně

 New in discussion:
Looking for climbers for a student shoot | Re: drytooling in CZ | Bouldering and sport climbing partner | looking for partner in Olomouc | Re: Looking for partners | Looking for partners | Re: looking for contact or info | looking for contact or info | Looking for climbing partner in Prague | Re: Climbing partner Prague |

 Latest comments:
MBT Kisumu Sandals Shoes Grey Blue Leather - $135.00 : mbtshoes, | Moncler Down Jackets Womens Black Zip Pure Color White [3310096] | CL49143 Standard Size Red Pattern Pandora Beads Screwed Core - $ | Re: Safty | Safty | Highline for females | y | Climbing on sandstone | Salaam/Congratulations!! | congratualtions |

 Hot:
Adam Ondra continues in hard sends in Deverse, south France (1)
Adam Ondra sends hard multi-pitch routes in the Alps (1)
Lynn Hill in Prague (1)

 New in advertising:
Cheap Comfortable Accommodation for Free Climbers near Sperlonga | Looking for climbing partner | Climbing in Sperlonga: accomodation | looking 4 slackliners | Compaňero de alpinismo | Arco 23.10.-1.11. | Climber - teacher of English | Sardinia climbing | Climbing | Visit |


 UKClimbing.com News
 - VIDEO - Ganesha 8b+: Climbing India's hardest Sport Route
 - Lucid Dreaming, ~8C, by Toru Nakajima
 - FRI NIGHT VIDEO - Cape Wrath Ultra
 - NEWS: The Project - A Unique Competition in Stockholm
 - NEWS - Six killed in Alps Icefall Collapses
 - New Northern Corries X, 10 by Greg Boswell
 - FRI NIGHT VID - Learning to Boulder with Ed Byrne and Niall Grimes
 - The Lappnor project
 - BMC launch Live Lake District Conditions Reports
 - VIDEO: Adam Ondra making the FA of Mamichula, 9b
 - Adam Ondra climbs Mamichula, 9b
 - Giuliano Cameroni repeats Der mit dem Fels tanzt, ~8C
 - VIDEO - Ben Moon: Past, Present & Future
 - Rubén Díaz repeats La teoría del todos, ~8C/+
 - Tickets on sale for the 12th annual Sheffield Adventure Film Festival
 czech climbing  forums  ankety  links  guides  fotky  video  *rss*  cookies       ceník reklamy Energy Cloud   NetPro systems, s.r.o.