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Spain February 2008: Story by Adam Ondra's mother

I don't know, what I should title the news about Adam's trip to the climbing areas in northern Spain. And a lot of beta has already been written, so what´s more?

Briefly: Our trip was in our recent tradition, the third in this time. And also the most successful. I could write more with the superlative "most" – there was the warmest weather during days, the most freezing nights, we laughed the most, we met many of the best friends, so it was the best time ...
Visited areas: Baume les Dames, Bruixes, Sta. Linya, Santa Ana, Siurana, Montserrat
The routes: The fact that Adam did very difficult routes quickly makes even Adam curious himself. He focused his January training to endurance, but he didn't expect such high performance, so he judges the local classification very embarrassingly.

The list of the climbed routes in the numbers .........
clas. 9a+ style PP 2x
clas. 9a  style PP 2x
8c+ style PP 4x  /from that one first ascent of the project A per nota, it was equipped by Jose Manuel Macias, who suggested 9a. Adam suggested  8c+/
8c/c+ style PP1x
8c style OS  2x
8b+ style OS 2x
about 27 routes above 8a
above 8c 12 routes
the time period 1.2.-18.2.2008


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz

(The photo from La Rambla - the prohibited hold is clearly visible here, it is absurd that one can stand on it as is documented on the photo.  ....Adam did not use it, if he would have, he could most probably have done it on 3rd try)

photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz

The names of the hardest routes
La Rambla 9a+ PP Siurana 5 attempts    10.2.2008 (3 attempts in Broadway 2007, identical start)
La Novena Enmienda 9a+ PP Sta. Linya 3 attempts    5.2.2008  (it is a combination of the routes, that he climbed in 2006,7)
Fuck The System 9a PP Sta. Linya  3 attempts  6.2.2008
Open Your Mind 9a PP Sta. Linya 2 attempts 17.2.2008
Digital system 8c OS Sta. Linya      5.2.2008   
Rollito Sharma Extension 8c OS Sta. Linya  7.2.2008
Jamaican airplane 8c+ PP Baume les Dames  3 attempts 1.2.2008
El Disbarat 8c+  PP  Montserrat  15.2.2008
Santa Linya  8c+ PP  Sta. Linya  17.2.2008
A per nota 8c+ PP  Siurana 2. attempts (9a?), first ascent  11.2.2008
Ces Ultima Ola 8c/c+  PP  Sta. Linya 2 attempts 7.2.2008
La Mocosa  8b+  OS  Pizaria / Terradets/    3.2.2008
Force vive 8b+  OS Baume les Dames  18.2.2008

Some new beta from Santa Linya and the neighborhood
The new better road leads almost under the rocks, probably for quads. The ban of driving is no problem for locals and also for visitors. The local rock masters came after 2 pm, it remains the beginning of the labor working shift. Only the clock stamp is missing. One can expect that the online camera will be attached for online amusement.
If you are looking for loneliness, do not go there or to Siurana. It would be more in among foreigners less known areas like Margalef, Mongrony or Santa Ana, also Bruixes was empty during the weekdays. The romantics and lower performance climbers find their expectation in Montserrat.
If you want to fly there only to cafe, just try to find some low cost airline e.g. we did for about 20 euros for one way from Brno and than car for 4 days for 50 euros can work cheaper than a trip to Frankenjura:-))))
Because of the warm weather I would recommend not to delay with the departure, if you are not really warm lovers.
The price of gasoline is a bit cheaper then in Czech. We tanked even for 96 cents/l.
The accommodation in camps is about for 6 euros, in “refugio“ about 10 euros.

PS: Big thanks to Dominika Kovacikova and Pepe Piechowicz
Sponzors: La Sportiva, Rock Empire, HUDYsport, Tendon


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz

Adam Ondra

photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz

  A per nota, project  equipped by Jose Manuel Macias, who suggested 9a, the first ascent by Adam who suggested 8c+, SIURANA

photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz


photo by © Petr Pepe Piechowicz

Updated Adam´s diary: Diary - Ondra Adam (dipsy)

(The author is Adam's mother, text translated by CzechClimbing.com team)

Eva Ondrová   [edit] 07:53 20.02.2008Print 


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